Oh God someone help this go away.

DMAN302

My mom says thanks for the pearl necklace.
Nov 8, 2003
2,120
2
59
windsor, Canada
Ok I've posted on this a bunch of times but haven't really gotten any firm answers..here goes again. I have as follows:
New IAC
New TPS
Adjusted Idle screw and set TPS at .95
Reset computer after 20min
Removed and cleaned TB, and EGR
NOW...after all this car ran GREAT, no hanging high idle, or hanging RPM, next day all problems return (high idle,hanging RPM). I pulled codes and got following:
Code 94..which I attribute to hollowed out smog and related issues
code 44...same as first
code 34 evp sensor fault..which I attribute to failling EGR valve and Selenoid.
Like most out there I have reset computer and cleaned this and that only to have problem return..tomorrow I am replacing EGR, SElenoid on EGR and on passenger strut tower (cant remember name). Can a failure of any of EGR Items listed above affect idle the way mine is being affected?
 
i have no egr items on my car, and it runs fine.... there is a slit surge every now an then, but i think its from to much draw off the alternator (big stereo with stock alternator). So what are the symptoms??? hanging idle?? try to unplug the iac an see if it will idle.. rev it up a few times, an see if it hangs... it may die, but that will tell you if its the computer controlling the hanging idle... Any vacuum leaks??? thats what was causing most of the problems with mine. Good luck!!
 
No apparent vac leaks I have 20HG off the tree, and since the car runs perfectly with reset then I doubt if problem was vac or it would persist..when IAC is unpluged car surges and dies..idle too low.
 
Try this,
It worked for me:

Set the throttle blade to specs using a feeler gauge.
Then set the TPS at the MINIMUM setting.
I forget what it is so check you repair manual. Its going to say for example: TPS should be withing .86 to .98 volts.
Whatever the minimun is put the TPS at that point.
If you can't seem to achieve the minimum by turning the TPS,
back down the adjusting screw until you do.
Reset computer and that should fix it!
 
Idle set acording to Corral tech..Listen guys the idle is fine..I said in every thread the idle is set and runs fine all day long..untill the car is cold then restart and idle drops to to normal untill gas is touched and then off to the races...idle jumps to 1500 rpm and rises like a possesed demon up and then back to maybe 1100 then up again to 1500, and hangs between shifts, sometimes it spikes like 100-200 between shifts, then shut off engine and restart and suddenly all better most the time...I beleive the EGR is the cause..i think the system is bleeding air by the Diaphram leaking (not working properly) and somehow is giving the car bad info causing the iac to loop or something of the sorts..EGR looked like hell when I removed it and cleaned it, so I think it's shot..guess what Im looking for is if someone else has had egr problems cause idle problems. If EGR is not working correct (as indicated by my 34 code) couldnt the air diverted by the egr screw the idle up increased vac from diaphram cause the engine to sense too little oxygen or something and send message to IAC to kick it up a notch. This is my theory but to test it I have to spend $150 and hoping someone can reassure me with a simular experience...I am not resetting the friggin TPS and playing with the Idle stop screw again...i have done this....like 8 times already. The car is SD and I know SD cars are very sensitive to Vac situations. Thanks for helpin out so far but keep trying cause i do appreciate your time.
 
Noslow i read your response about you not having EGR and no problems but in my case i think having it and it not working properly is very different..if you know what i mean. I always found problems like this are vac related but I have good vac a tree and to map, no visable broken lines and a problem that is dependant on temp..so i say wtf!!! my car hates me..don't know why but I think sometimes it does.
 
Thanks cevtv but Im not looking to fix the code as much as I am find the problem with the idle...i'll take all the codes in the world if my car would idle as well as it rockets when the pedal is down.. I frigin hate stoping at a light with my idle at 17oo rpm and people lookin at me like "easy buddy" it worked fine before...it will again.
 
I've heard of a faulty EGR doin what you are talking about. have you taken the master connectors(can't remember the name) but they are a really big connectors,one is black and one is white on the back of the intake, try spreading those pin connectors apart so they can get better contact. and when you set the idle I think you suppose to have the IAC disconnected and it's suppose to be warmed up and base idle is 650 I think or maybe is was around 800rpms.
 
Just for laughs check your Upper manifold bolts in the Back I chased a simliar problem for a week and I swore up and down they were snugged down good and they were not.I found this by leaning on my manifold and you could here the difference. Retighten the bolts in the back and adjust my TB and it was purring like a kitty. It only takes 5 minutes to check and also check for vacume leaks using a can of Carb cleaner ...some leaks are not visible as mentioned before so take a can and Lightly spray around your Vacume lines and make sure your Pcv valve is in good and the hose running from it, is not to tight causing it to stretch especialy win you engage Rpm's you motor does move some, so if any of your lines are against the manifold, head's or anything for that matter you very well could have a simple Leak they are not always consistent with each other Just take the small steps first so you dont look over anything. Also Have you replaced your O2 sensor's. Had a friend same problem 1 hour of new O2 sensor's and no more freaky Idle's. Sound like your IAC is doing the right thing BUT NO BS CHECK YOUR MANIFOLD BOLTS.