Oil pan gasket change OR starter replacement in a 302 II

LILCBRA

I wish I didn't have all of these balls in the air
15 Year Member
Dec 6, 2005
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Marietta, Ga
Here's a quick how-to on changing an oil pan gasket on a 302 without removing the engine. It's the same steps as changing a starter more or less, so it's basically 2 birds with 1 stone.

First, raise the car to an appropriate height and support it. Remove the (-) battery cable from the battery.

Pull the mounting bolts from the rack and pinion. You're not going to remove it, just manipulate it so it's out of your way. In my case, I lifted the right front tire from the pedestal it was on so that side would turn freely.

Remove the cable from the starter.

IMG_20200523_111312.jpg


If your car still has the secondary cross member bolted in place, remove it. That gives you access to the bottom starter bolt as well as clearer access to the back oil pan bolts. Remove the starter by removing the 2 bolts holding it in.

Remove the sway bar bushings and brackets from the frame and let the sway bar hang.

Remove the oil pan bolts and remove the oil pan from the car. I had to wiggle it over the sway bar and out of the car.

IMG_20200523_113437.jpg


This picture is to illustrate the difference between a II oil pan and another stock front sump pan. I also have a picture of the part number for the oil pan. I'm not sure if it's the complete part number or not, but what I have is still visible. The II pan is behind the standard.

IMG_20200523_114031.jpg


IMG_20200523_115201.jpg


Installation is the reverse of these steps. I purchased the newer one piece oil pan gasket which comes with threaded plastic retaining clips, they're extremely helpful for reinstalling everything. :)
 
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You'll most likely run into clearance issues with the rack and pinion. It may fit without modifying, but it's unlikely. You can shim the motor mounts up to accommodate, but you may then run into hood clearance problems.
 
You'll most likely run into clearance issues with the rack and pinion. It may fit without modifying, but it's unlikely. You can shim the motor mounts up to accommodate, but you may then run into hood clearance problems.
You can lift the engine up about 3/4" with spacers without clearance issues as long as the engine is running the stock manifold or similar with a drop-base air cleaner. It's when you get into mid-rise intakes like your car and mine are running that things get... "interesting".
 
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