OIL PICKUP TUBE CLEARANCE PROBLEM
- Thread starter CONCRETEWARFARE
- Start date
bingo we probably have a winner. when you put silicone on the gasket surface between the oil pump and the block. The squeeze out will cause a restriction in the oil passage causing weird oil pressure issues.
Now another thing that will cause weird oil pressure issues is to much silicone on the oil pan mating surface. the squeeze out depart itself into the oil pan and get sucked into the oil pump screen causing a restriction.
The clearence issue will show oil pressure drop at high rpm's if the clearence is to tight the pump will cavitate and thats not good. you can check this with a peice of clay.
chris
Now another thing that will cause weird oil pressure issues is to much silicone on the oil pan mating surface. the squeeze out depart itself into the oil pan and get sucked into the oil pump screen causing a restriction.
The clearence issue will show oil pressure drop at high rpm's if the clearence is to tight the pump will cavitate and thats not good. you can check this with a peice of clay.
chris
Well I dont want to jinx it but I think I may have somewhat fixed the problem. I put in the hv oilpump and a new pickup and cold psi only rose to about 60psi but it seems to hold it a little longer and after idleing for a while it went down to about 30psi. As soon as I hit the gas though it shoots right into the 50-55 psi range. Hopefully it maintains within the next couple warm ups I put it through. Now all I have to do is fix this damn over heating problem and it will be a reliable car.
Maryland Stang
Active Member
There is no gasket between the pump and block. Mine didn't have one and there isn't one listed in any parts catalog that I've seen. The gasket that is included with the pump is for the pickup.
Maryland Stang
Active Member
Your temps (according to your gauge) looks about right. It really hard to tell by the factory gauge. Mine used to run around the "O" and the "R". Then one day it started going up to the "M", "A" and "L" and I spent a good amount of money fixing a problem that wasn't there. I bought and aluminum rad ($300), high flow water pump ($80) and a calibrated t-stat ($20). I removed my under drive pullies and everything. Even after all of that it still read high. A quick check with a calibrated thermometer showed me that I had spent a lot of money for no reason. The fluid going into the rad was right around 195 degrees when it entered the rad and about 135 when it left. Right where it was supposed to be.
Just an FYI, here is the image from my Ford Factory Service Manual for a 1992 Mustang 5.0. There is not supposed to be a gasket between the block and oil pump.
Just an FYI, here is the image from my Ford Factory Service Manual for a 1992 Mustang 5.0. There is not supposed to be a gasket between the block and oil pump.
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Maryland Stang
Active Member
As long as the gasket doesn't partially blow out you should be fine. A partial blowout would be kinda like drilling a hole in the side of the oil pump. You won't loose pressure altogether but it won't be at it's max.
An oil system can have elevated levels when you first start an engine up and the oil is cold. Upwards of 80 PSI and beyond. That paper gasket that you put in there is the only paper gasket in the entire pressurized oil system in the entire engine. The small block Ford has been around since the early 60s and every one of them was built without a gasket there. It's makes you wonder why Ford chose not to put a gasket there doesn't it?
An oil system can have elevated levels when you first start an engine up and the oil is cold. Upwards of 80 PSI and beyond. That paper gasket that you put in there is the only paper gasket in the entire pressurized oil system in the entire engine. The small block Ford has been around since the early 60s and every one of them was built without a gasket there. It's makes you wonder why Ford chose not to put a gasket there doesn't it?
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