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  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
  • Classic Mustang Specific Tech

Oil Pump Drive Shaft '68 289 V8

  • Thread starter Thread starter mrb302
  • Start date Start date Nov 16, 2005

mrb302

Senior Member
Founding Member
Jun 27, 1999
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0
North Carolina
Nov 16, 2005
#1
  • Nov 16, 2005
  • #1
Guys and gals... I think I'm screwed, but I'm looking for the miracle cure...

Just got the reassembled 289 back into the car. I was putting the front and top pieces back together and found the oil pump drive shaft laying on the parts tray

I have the hexagonal drive shaft with the little washer deal. Anyway to get this thing back in without dropping the oil pan?

Also, the washer, does it go on top or below the boss? Really dumb question, but top or bottom boss?

Thanks for any responses, and please feel free to indicate how stupid I was to bolt the pan on without checking. amnit:

Thanks
 
T

TOM B

20+ Year Stangneter
Nov 15, 2002
872
1
16
Harrisburg Pa
Nov 16, 2005
#2
  • Nov 16, 2005
  • #2
Pull the pan off and the oil pump. The little lock washer goes toward to top of engine and will almost butt up against the boss. It is there to stop the rod from pulling out when the distributor is removed.
Dont forget to prime the pump, dont crank it dry.
 

mrb302

Senior Member
Founding Member
Jun 27, 1999
2,080
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0
North Carolina
Nov 16, 2005
#3
  • Nov 16, 2005
  • #3
Pull the pan off and the oil pump.

Yeah, that's what I was afraid of...
 

iskwezm

10 Year Member
May 24, 2005
4,159
20
79
Rowland Heights,California
Nov 16, 2005
#4
  • Nov 16, 2005
  • #4
i did the same thing,but i just put it in the bottom of the distributor(NOT DIZZY) and put it down into the pump
 

65ShelbyClone

Founding Member
Sep 9, 2000
4,675
38
119
Antelope Valley, SoCal
Nov 17, 2005
#5
  • Nov 17, 2005
  • #5
mrb302 said:
Pull the pan off and the oil pump.

Yeah, that's what I was afraid of...
Click to expand...

Seriously, its not hard if you pull the crossmember and starter out. I just replaced my pan gasket a few weeks ago. Also, a hardened pump shaft is good insurance.
 
1

10secgoal

Active Member
Dec 1, 2003
2,801
3
49
San Diego
Nov 17, 2005
#6
  • Nov 17, 2005
  • #6
Super glue the shaft in the dist. Been doing it or years and no problems. Dropped it once in the pan and never wanted it again.
 

mrb302

Senior Member
Founding Member
Jun 27, 1999
2,080
0
0
North Carolina
Nov 17, 2005
#7
  • Nov 17, 2005
  • #7
10secgoal said:
Super glue the shaft in the dist. Been doing it or years and no problems. Dropped it once in the pan and never wanted it again.
Click to expand...

That's the kind of advice I was looking for...

I should have given a little more background info I guess...

I'm no stranger to pulling oilpans. Heck I just finished rebuilding the engine. I have a engine lift, so I was going to weight the front bumper down, disconnect the motor/tranny mounts, and lift it up to get at the pan. The main issue here is that I'm lazy. I know how to do it the right way, I'm looking for an easy way...

I was trying to think of how I could built a tool to hold the washer in place down low and then insert the shaft through the bosses, into the washer, and then the pump.

I'm considering the superglue method, any other ideas for this fat, lazy man?
 

rbohm

Founding Member
Apr 12, 2002
6,698
550
204
tucson,az
Nov 17, 2005
#8
  • Nov 17, 2005
  • #8
do yourself a favor and get a good aftermarket driveshaft and dump the stock one. the stock one can twist itself into a pretzel very quickly. cheap insurance for your motor.
 

iskwezm

10 Year Member
May 24, 2005
4,159
20
79
Rowland Heights,California
Nov 17, 2005
#9
  • Nov 17, 2005
  • #9
mrb302 said:
That's the kind of advice I was looking for...

I'm considering the superglue method, any other ideas for this fat, lazy man?
Click to expand...
if your gonna be that lazy,wtah about a spot weld or silicone?luckily mine was tight enough in the shaft openeing so it didnt fall out when it went down into the pump
 

65ShelbyClone

Founding Member
Sep 9, 2000
4,675
38
119
Antelope Valley, SoCal
Nov 17, 2005
#10
  • Nov 17, 2005
  • #10
mrb302 said:
I have a engine lift, so I was going to weight the front bumper down, disconnect the motor/tranny mounts, and lift it up to get at the pan. The main issue here is that I'm lazy. I know how to do it the right way, I'm looking for an easy way...
Click to expand...

Its been outlined already. Drop the shaft in throught the top and risk it going into the pan, thus requiring you pull it anyway or pull the pan and do it the right way. I dont know what this talk of lifting the engine is about. Just pull the crossmember and starter. It took me at most two hours to do that, pull the pan, clean it, find my gaskets, find the RTV, install gaskets, apply RTV, wait for it to tack up, bolt everything back together, and fill the engine up with oil. You've probably spent more time on Stangnet than it would take to pull the pan. The right way is only slightly more difficult and ALOT less risky than the "easy" way. I have tried a on a multiple occasions to cut rate my jobs and got burned on every one.
 
6

68conv4sp

New Member
Oct 24, 2005
270
0
0
Nov 18, 2005
#11
  • Nov 18, 2005
  • #11
As another lazy 289 owner, I used a small amount of RTV to hold the new hardened shaft in the Dist and lowered it down into the pump. this was 2 years ago (10K) w/ no probs. Tom
 
T

TOM B

20+ Year Stangneter
Nov 15, 2002
872
1
16
Harrisburg Pa
Nov 18, 2005
#12
  • Nov 18, 2005
  • #12
10secgoal said:
Super glue the shaft in the dist. Been doing it or years and no problems. Dropped it once in the pan and never wanted it again.
Click to expand...

This is why you should NEVER buy a used car!
 
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