Ok have dyno tune sheet plus rant

[mustanglouie]

Ok have dyno tune sheet plus rant *update*

Ok here is the pic of my dyno sheet sorry for the bad pic. Ok, here comes the rant sorry in need to vent. Ok soooo you see the mods in my sig right well they are not totally correct. I bought a 73mm mass air from dugan racing and also got a used set of 24lbs injectors from them also. Well the guy who is doing my dyno tune called me today and told me that the reason that he has had so much trouble tunning my car is because I gave he the wrong info. Well my car is suppose to have the 73mm mass air and the 24lb injectors right. No he says. He said that he called ford and asked them about the part number on my mass air and come to find out that it is not an aftermarket like I thought but a stock mass air meter. He also said that my injectors are not 24 but the stock 19 lbs injectors . So you can imagine my anger right now. I had my brother and my cousin do the motor swap and put on all the upgrades so I know there is no funny bussiness from them. The only other thing I can think of is that I took my car to dugan racing and had them do my rear gears. So maybe they swap these items out and figured I would never notice . But I know that when the motor got put in, it had the correct items on it. So I don't know but I am so mad right now . But let me know what you think about my numbers since now I know that I have stock injectors and a stock mass air meter. What do you think the improvement would be if I had what I was suppose to have? Thanks
Louie

 

[mustanglouie]

Im sorry the numbers are hard to read. but I made 256.8 rwhp and 290.5 of torque. It all makes since now because he said that my combo was running real lean at first so he had to fix that problem and I of course lost hp. But maybe it would of been better with the bigger injectors right?
Thanks

 

[mo_dingo]

Now you are running a tiny bit rich. I would lean it back above 13.0 but keep it below 13.5.

My only input thus far.
Scott

 

[RIO5.0]

Looks about right to me..I was 262 and 296TQ with bout the same mods and 19s...
Sucks to think a shop would bone you like that... Somethings fishy for sure..

 

[mustanglouie]

Ok well I got my car back today and have found out some things. Well come to find out I do have 24lb injectors and I do have the correct mass air meter. So me and dugan racing are cool. Well the car still has a bad bucking problem at higher rpms. The dyno guy said that I might want to clean out my (used) injectors first. Then clean out my radiator because the coolant looks brown. He also said to look into changing my distributor. He showed me my cap and rotor and it looked like they had not been changed ever, and the car has 160xxx miles on it. So his idea is that since everything is perfect from the dyno stand point that it my be something wrong with my injectors or my distributor . What do yall think the bucking is coming from? I have new spark plugs and wires new cap and rotor button, and new fuel filter if that helps. thanks for the help guys

 

[reddy351]

I can't believe that the dyno guy would even put your car on the rollers w/o checking basic stuff like plugs/wires/cap. I would say that's your problem.

 

[BlownFiveLiter]

Having a 73mm MAF makes me think C&L, so the guy would be right in thinking you had a stock MAF since the electronics would be swapped over. If your injectors are orange, they're 19lb. I would hope the tuner would notice the color and at least have some knowledge of parts even just based off looking at them. Changing the entire distributor would be a waste of money if yours is still working properly, so the basic tune-up items should get you off on a good foot. Look into doing plugs, wires, cap & rotor, fuel filter, air filter, PCV, clean the MAF, and then try again. The bucking is probably something that can be tuned out, but the guy is hoping the other items solve the problem before he goes and trys to tune it out, only to find that something in the ignition or fuel systems was the cause all along. I agree with Rio, those numbers really don't look too far off, and the tune-up probably won't put you too much higher, but it's always worth replacing those items anyway.

 

[mustanglouie]

well like I said before I found out that I do have the blue injectors which are the 24's and then I found out about the mass air meter. The guy said that he called ford with the part number off of my new mass air but he got the number off of the factory plug so of course the ford place told him that it was a factory peice. So I am guessing that my problem lies in the mass air meter. Because my injectors or 24lbs and my mass air is reading 19lbs.

 

[mustanglouie]

I can't believe that the dyno guy would even put your car on the rollers w/o checking basic stuff like plugs/wires/cap. I would say that's your problem.

I don't understand your statement. What do you mean "that's your problem"? I hope you are not trying to be a smart azz. I guess I need to go to another tuner and mech. when I need to get something done because I guess he didn't do a good job. So that really is my problem. But I did tell him to check everything before we put it on the dyno. But I guess he didn't do a good job of that either. Oh well I guess I learned my lesson.

 

[BlownFiveLiter]

If you have a C&L meter, make sure you have the sampling tube for the 24lb injectors. With that particular brand, the electronics don't get changed, only the sampling tube in order to fool the computer to thinking it's still running 19lb'ers. He may be a competitent tuner, and assumed things would be in top shape before running on the dyno.

 

[reddy351]

"mustanglouie" wrote: I don't understand your statement. What do you mean "that's your problem"? I hope you are not trying to be a smart azz."

Wasn't trying to be a smart a**. I was just saying that 160k mile plugs wires and cap are going to be a problem on a STOCK engine. Maxxed even more on one with a few mods.

High rpm maladies, most of the time, are related to either ignition or valve train. Yours is described as a "bucking". Not necessarily related to ignition but certainly not related to valve train. Hard to tell, with high mileage ignition parts on there. Get those new parts that you have, on there first and soon.

If you just put your 19# air meter (the square black piece) into a larger diameter housing, then you still have a meter calibrated for 19#.

 

[mustanglouie]

ok man thanks for the reply. I was just asking what you meant. I do not have the factory block either. The motor that I have is a rebuilt unit out of a fox and dugan racing is the place that did the rebuild. Just to clear up any confusion

 

[final5-0]

The whole maf cal thing can be confusing for sure

In a nutshell .............

PMAS (ProM) does it electronically

C&L does it mechanically

That means on the C&L ... the electronics has no effect
and
On the PMAS ... the part that samples airflow has no effect

Your fuel curve may or may not be a bit off.

Most think anything below 13.00 to 1.00 is too rich but that is not always the case.

You said the tech fixed the too lean condition and the curve seems to show that.

As others have said, you really are not a whole bunch below the norm for what most combos like that put down and fresh parts like dizzy cap, rotor, wires, fuel filter and the like would most likely up the dyno values
but
IMHO ... not by great amounts

With 160K on the clock ... the rings most likely are not keeping the charge fresh and compression is down a bit. That most certainaly will cost you a bit of go fast power.

Grady