ok just ran codes for the first time

[slo65]

one quick question, it says while performing the koeo scan with a "4.9 standard transmission press and hold clutch in until all codes are sent" i have a 5.0.... does this apply to me? (<kind of a dumb question i know )

now that that's out of the way

code 63 : throttle position circuit failure, below minimum voltage

^ this means i need to set my tps sensor right? i havent done that yet

code 67 : neutral pressure switch circuit failure

not sure what that one means, does me not having the clutch in cause that?

if someone can help me out i'd appreciate it

http://www.iequus.com/item.asp?cid=10&pid=3145
^ this is the scanner i have

 

[slo65]

hissin? jrichker? anyone? this is the only day i have off of work

 

[jrichker]

Code 67 - clutch not depressed (5 speed) or car not in neutral or park (auto) or the A/C was on when you ran the test (it is supposed to be off). Possible neutral safety switch or wiring problem. You can generally ignore this code, since it has no effect on engine performance. The code will affect some of the engine running diagnostic tests the computer can do if requested.

Code 63 - Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) signal too low TPS. Vref missing (5 volt reference voltage supplied by the computer), bad connections or damaged wiring, TPS sensor failed, TPS sensor way out of adjustment. Use a DVM to check for 5 volts on the Orange wire. If it is missing, look for +5 volts at the Orange wire on the EGR or MAP sensor located on the firewall near the center of the car.

Here’s a TPS tip I got from NoGo50…

When you installed the sensor make sure you place it on the peg right and then tighten it down properly. Loosen the back screw a tiny bit so the sensor can pivot and loosen the front screw enough so you can move it just a little in very small increments. I wouldn’t try to adjust it using marks. Set it at .80v-.98v. Just don’t go over .99, or you upset the fuel calibration and idle quality will suffer.

(copied from MustangMax, Glendale AZ)

1. Always adjust the TPS and Idle with the engine at operating temp. Dive it around for a bit if you can and get it nice and warm.

2. When you probe the leads of the TPS, do not use an engine ground, put the ground probe into the lead of the TPS. You should be connecting both meter probes to the TPS and not one to the TPS and the other to ground.

3. Always reset the computer whenever you adjust the TPS or clean/change any sensors. I just pull the battery lead for 10 minutes.

4. Check the procedure for your year, on my 90 I have to turn the idle screw until it just touches the tab, then insert a .010 feeler gauge and give it about one more turn. Then you adjust the TPS voltage to .80-.98v, reset the computer. Start it up, if the idle is to low then turn the screw in until it is just right, then readjust the TPS voltage to .80-98v and reset the computer and start it up. The key is to adjust the TPS voltage and reset the computer whenever the idle screw is changed.

 

[squeeeg]

he is the man when it comes to codes

 

[slo65]

thanks a lot , would it make a difference that the car's a sd?

 

[DMAN302]

SD won't matter proceedure is the same, I have gotten away with not adusting idle after TPS set/install, but that's never a given.

 

[slo65]

okay guys update here

i was at work and did a koer test,

code 94 and 44 came up, no more tps code on the koeo test, thats why i proceeded to the koer test, the book gives a vague description of what the codes mean, so again if u have any imput

 

[DMAN302]

Have to do with emission related components, if smog pump or smog assessories are removed, just ignore.

 

[jrichker]

Codes 94 & 44 - Check vacuum lines for leaks, & cracks. Disconnect the big hose from smog pump: with the engine running you should feel air output. Reconnect the smog pump hose & apply vacuum to the first vacuum controlled valve: Its purpose is to either dump the pump's output to the atmosphere or pass it to the next valve. The next vacuum controlled valve directs the air to either the cylinder heads when the engine is cold or to the catalytic converter when the engine is warm. Disconnect the big hoses from the back side of the vacuum controlled valve and start the engine. Apply vacuum to the valve and see if the airflow changes from one hose to the next.
The two electrical controlled vacuum valves mounted on the rear of the passenger side wheelwell turn the vacuum on & off under computer control. Check to see that both valves have +12 volts on the red wire. Then ground the white/red wire and the first solenoid should open and pass vacuum. Do the same thing to the light green/black wire on the second solenoid and it should open and pass vacuum.

Remember that the computer does not source power for any actuator or relay, but provides the ground necessary to complete the circuit. That means one side of the circuit will always be hot, and the other side will go to ground or below 1 volt as the computer switches on that circuit.

See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host)

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91eecPinout.gif

 

[slo65]

thanks a lot guys, i recently put some headers on and a lot of the vaccume lines for the smog pump were brittle, some of the little ones (name?) broke, is this really a serious problem?

 

[Funanin]

just replace the one side of the vacuum tree with rubber hose from hardware store. thats what i did and it works fine. Also, the code 44 and 94 are a malfunctioning thermactor which is on the back of the EGR spacer. The inside is orange if u look inside it. If it is bubbled out then its not working right and u need to take the vac hose off and put ur mouth on and suck as hard as u can to get it to go back in. That fixed mine.

 

[slo65]

just replace the one side of the vacuum tree with rubber hose from hardware store. thats what i did and it works fine. Also, the code 44 and 94 are a malfunctioning thermactor which is on the back of the EGR spacer. The inside is orange if u look inside it. If it is bubbled out then its not working right and u need to take the vac hose off and put ur mouth on and suck as hard as u can to get it to go back in. That fixed mine.

 

[Funanin]

lol, yea or u could get a female friend of yours to do it. It shouldnt be to hard to pick which one.