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OK, so I'm replacing the electric door lock solenoid...

  • Thread starter Thread starter twogts4us
  • Start date Start date Sep 9, 2010

twogts4us

15 Year Member
Apr 1, 2004
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Dunedin, FL
Sep 9, 2010
#1
  • Sep 9, 2010
  • #1
I ended up just buying a replacement solenoid from Latemodel Restoration, but I neglected to buy the rivet to attach it to the door. After drilling out the old one, I now realize how big the rivet is. Besides going back to LRS to buy a simple rivet (1.99 each, but then I still have to pay shipping and I don't have that big rivet gun, just a standard, albeit Heavy Duty, Craftsman unit) and therefore delaying this project (I'd planned to tackle this project this weekend), will another rivet (or even bolt/screw assembly) work? Or does Ford parts counter typically sell and carry these rivets?

Secondly, please take a look at the pictures below. This was in the bottom of the door when I retrieved the solenoid (after drilling out the rivet). I have to believe that it was somehow previously attached, because it probably would have rattled pretty badly, and we don't recall hearing this thing previously. So, my question is, WHAT is it and WHERE does it go? It does have a part # stamping = 9AB - 54220A91 - AA.

Thanks guys!
Chris



 
L

Lawbreaker5.0

Member
Feb 20, 2009
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Sep 9, 2010
#2
  • Sep 9, 2010
  • #2
That piece is a cover for the door latch mechanis. I popped it off and for life of me could not figure how to pop it back on. So I've left mine off for some time. I assume it's just a sheild. Ford will have the rivets. I think I paid 1.69 each. I bought the big rivet gun at harbor freight and comes with the rivets for 19.99 They are not the best rivets though, they mushroom and don't split into three parts like the ford rivets do. You could always use 1/4 (I believe) bolts.
 

twogts4us

15 Year Member
Apr 1, 2004
4,188
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Dunedin, FL
Sep 9, 2010
#3
  • Sep 9, 2010
  • #3
Perfect - thanks! I need a reason to go down to our local Harbor Freight anyway! (Dangerous place, eh?) As we all know, some of their stuff is sub par, but for a lot of us shadetree mechanics, their stuff works just fine.
 

Saleen0679

10 Year Member
Apr 14, 2005
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Sep 10, 2010
#4
  • Sep 10, 2010
  • #4
Looks like the 'anti-theft shield'.

 
Last edited: Feb 10, 2018
L

Lawbreaker5.0

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Feb 20, 2009
543
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Sep 10, 2010
#5
  • Sep 10, 2010
  • #5
Man an anti theft sheild? Maybe I shouldn't have thrown it away. Lol. Oh well. My cars are rarely left alone and are parked in the garage.

Yeah your right about us, most of the time harbor freight's tools will work and if they break, take it back and get free replacement. FTW!!!
 

jrichker

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Sep 10, 2010
#6
  • Sep 10, 2010
  • #6
A bolt or machine screw from the hardware store will workk just as good as the rivet.

By the way, if you had followed the link in my sig, you could have saved a big bunch of money on the door lock actuators - fix both sides for less than $25. The replacement actuators are very good and they don't seize up like the stock ones do.
 

twogts4us

15 Year Member
Apr 1, 2004
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Dunedin, FL
Sep 10, 2010
#7
  • Sep 10, 2010
  • #7
Yeah I did follow your link, but in the end, decided to do just a simple (hopefully simple?) RNR - this is my son's car and I really don't feel like wrapping up my entire weekend messing with his car.
 

capri debris

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May 5, 2007
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Sep 10, 2010
#8
  • Sep 10, 2010
  • #8
Why would you even consider using another rivet? Go get some small pan head bolts with a allen key hole in them. I keep an assortment of them in stainless steel so I can use them anywhere I need a bolt with a low profile head.
 

twogts4us

15 Year Member
Apr 1, 2004
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Dunedin, FL
Sep 10, 2010
#9
  • Sep 10, 2010
  • #9
capri debris said:
Why would you even consider using another rivet? Go get some small pan head bolts with a allen key hole in them. I keep an assortment of them in stainless steel so I can use them anywhere I need a bolt with a low profile head.
Click to expand...
You are spot on bro - I really don't want to use a rivet. I just need to find the proper size and spec of bolt and nut. A pan head bolt would fit properly, and an allen key head would look OEM. The only reason I was leaving toward the rivet is for the OEM look - I don't want it to look ghetto.
 

MFE92

10 Year Member
Aug 25, 2010
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Phoenix
Sep 10, 2010
#10
  • Sep 10, 2010
  • #10
There's no need to undo the rivet. Just pop the old cylinder out of its bracket and finagle the new one in, without removing the bracket or its rivet at all.
 

old_blue

15 Year Member
Nov 3, 2003
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Sep 11, 2010
#11
  • Sep 11, 2010
  • #11
jrichker said:
A bolt or machine screw from the hardware store will workk just as good as the rivet.

By the way, if you had followed the link in my sig, you could have saved a big bunch of money on the door lock actuators - fix both sides for less than $25. The replacement actuators are very good and they don't seize up like the stock ones do.
Click to expand...

I've done 4 doors this way and they work perfect. Doesnt take long at all.
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
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#12
  • Sep 11, 2010
  • #12
MFE92 said:
There's no need to undo the rivet. Just pop the old cylinder out of its bracket and finagle the new one in, without removing the bracket or its rivet at all.
Click to expand...

And if it's a vert with a plastic bracket (et al?), you can use snap rings pliers to remove the bracket from the rivet-mount if the bracket needs replacing or removal (for the JR retrofit, it can help to remove the bracket while test-fit mounting the aftermarket actuator to the bracket).
 
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