OK THIS IS GETTING TO BE B.S!!!!!!

[SMOKEDYA]

ok to start here is a run down on what is done to the stang:
underdrive pullies
mac cold air
(i beleive) 303 cam
headers (flo tech.)
bassani o/r x
flo master 2 chamber's
spec stage 1 clutch
steeda quadrant cable and firewall adj.
pro 5.0 shifter
3.55 gears
steeda adj. upper rear arms
steeda lower rear arms
nitto d/r's
adj. fuel pressure reg.
ford lowering springs
and a mix of 110 oct. with pump 92 gas every now and then
timming adavance
so what i dont understand is after each up grade i'm still running bout the same times? even after the arms and d/r's? maybe i dont have the upper's adj, right? i see guy's on here running better times then mine with half the upgrades with the same year of car by the way i have a 95 gt. my times are preaty much 14.0's to 14.3's i did have a best time once of 13.998? WTF is going on here ? i really dont think it's the driver cause a stay really consistant? any advise? maybe a tunning job? i aslo have a C&L 76 mm T.B but when it is installed it runs like ****nicky? thats prob cause i need the wide band done tho? even leaving at an idol i sometimes spin'em and still chirp into 2nd? any and all idvise would be helpfull. peace



john

 

[Rootus]

You still running stock heads, stock intake? In that case 14.0 doesn't seem all that bad . If your upgrades aren't getting you any improvement, then that probably means what you just upgraded wasn't a bottleneck yet . If you have the stock intake, it should be a high priority to be replaced or at least ported, that's a huge bottleneck on the 5.0.

Dave

 

[SMOKEDYA]

You still running stock heads, stock intake? In that case 14.0 doesn't seem all that bad . If your upgrades aren't getting you any improvement, then that probably means what you just upgraded wasn't a bottleneck yet . If you have the stock intake, it should be a high priority to be replaced or at least ported, that's a huge bottleneck on the 5.0.

Dave

so if i get the intake replaced then i should make a good if not then a huge improvement? i've been looking hard at the elonbrock heads and intake? but what about the gt40 intake is that a good starting point ? so with what i have is good #'s then? i'll prob get the eldonbrock intake tho.peace


john

 

[Rootus]

The intake is definitely a bottlneck that should be addressed early. If you like the GT40 style, I'd probably get the Cobra version (cheaper) and have the lower ported. The Eddy intake is also excellent.

If you ultimately plan to do aluminum heads, I would recommend taking a hard look at the TFS kit. For the money ($2050) it's a very good combo IMO -- comes with heads, cam, intake, and the supporting stuff like valve covers, all gaskets, pushrods, rockers, etc. It's hard to put together a comparable combo from parts for the same price.

Dave

 

[gospeedgo]

The TFS kit is ok...but the cam is too radical for the 95 and the valve covers are a pain in the butt to fit (cutting breather holes, fabricating baffles, ect)

If you want to piece it together, the Edelbrock or Performance Products Typhoon (identical) intakes are very nice, and AFR has great heads. Chung has a cam that he likes to use on the 95's that wont cause as many problems as the TFS stage 1. Give him a ring and I am sure he can hook you up.

 

[ironmedic]

intake alone wont help you. you will need heads too. u might wanna find out what kind of cam it is in there since there are several types of "303" cams.

 

[WaterPog]

what is your MPH and incrementals? What does the car weigh?
How much of a burnout are you doing on the Nittos?

If you're blowing the tires off now throwing more power at it won't help much.

 

[wicked93]

the tfs stage 1 cam is an excellent cam I don't see how it could cause problems on the 95's it is close in specs to the E-303 except has a split duration I ran the stage 1 cam and it was very drivable. I did have a real basic combo at one time that worked real well and got amazing fuel mileage and ran hard in fact ran a 12.8 @ 110 mph on street tires. it was as follows cobra intake, E-303 cam, 24lb injectors, 70mm tb, 73mm c&l maf, edelbrock performer heads with crane 1.7 rockers, bbk shorty headers with off road h-pipe and flowmaster cat back & 3.55 gears

if you want to piece it together the AFR are very good but a little pricey the holley intake with the stage one cam or a comp cams etreme hyd roller would run very hard if you do not want to spend the money on the afr the tfs would work as well. there are alot of ways to go but the main thing to do is to look at what you want the car to be and set a plan and don't stray from it put it on paper weight out the cost on the diffrent avenue's and go from there
and give chung a call with questions as he can help alot with what you want to do that was my 2 cent's and change

 

[AllFordPerf]

the tfs stage 1 cam is an excellent cam I don't see how it could cause problems on the 95's it is close in specs to the E-303 except has a split duration I ran the stage 1 cam and it was very drivable. I did have a real basic combo at one time that worked real well and got amazing fuel mileage and ran hard in fact ran a 12.8 @ 110 mph on street tires. it was as follows cobra intake, E-303 cam, 24lb injectors, 70mm tb, 73mm c&l maf, edelbrock performer heads with crane 1.7 rockers, bbk shorty headers with off road h-pipe and flowmaster cat back & 3.55 gears

if you want to piece it together the AFR are very good but a little pricey the holley intake with the stage one cam or a comp cams etreme hyd roller would run very hard if you do not want to spend the money on the afr the tfs would work as well. there are alot of ways to go but the main thing to do is to look at what you want the car to be and set a plan and don't stray from it put it on paper weight out the cost on the diffrent avenue's and go from there
and give chung a call with questions as he can help alot with what you want to do that was my 2 cent's and change

94 and 95 mustangs don't have a map sensor and are very sensitive to excessive duration and large lobe seperation ( low vacuum cams ). The stage one and two cams are excellent cams in anything other than a sn 95 car.

 

[SMOKEDYA]

what is your MPH and incrementals? What does the car weigh?
How much of a burnout are you doing on the Nittos?

If you're blowing the tires off now throwing more power at it won't help much.

my1/8 mile is between 74-76 mph and the 1/4 is between 94-98 mph i had it weighted at work (and they are accurate) it weighted in at 3450 with me (135lbs) and a 1/4 tank of gas. as far as the burn out i'm asuming i do a good burn out. prob bout a 2-3 sec. one in 2nd. gear at about 4500 rpm (just ask dunner) he knows as far as blowing the tires off thats what i thought also so i got d/r's and it didnt realy help so then i got the rear upper and lower arms still not much of a help???? D A M N IT!!!! i thought to myself pog i talked to you the last night the d/r class was going on bout youre nos you have i was there with the guy in the glasses that was talking to youre buddy with the other 95 that bought it in peices i beleive it was the green one just like mine? well hell i will be back out at the track again next weekend i have a green 95 with an AFP sticker in the rear window. my # at the track is 01A see ya then. peace



john

 

[SMOKEDYA]

the tfs stage 1 cam is an excellent cam I don't see how it could cause problems on the 95's it is close in specs to the E-303 except has a split duration I ran the stage 1 cam and it was very drivable. I did have a real basic combo at one time that worked real well and got amazing fuel mileage and ran hard in fact ran a 12.8 @ 110 mph on street tires. it was as follows cobra intake, E-303 cam, 24lb injectors, 70mm tb, 73mm c&l maf, edelbrock performer heads with crane 1.7 rockers, bbk shorty headers with off road h-pipe and flowmaster cat back & 3.55 gears

if you want to piece it together the AFR are very good but a little pricey the holley intake with the stage one cam or a comp cams etreme hyd roller would run very hard if you do not want to spend the money on the afr the tfs would work as well. there are alot of ways to go but the main thing to do is to look at what you want the car to be and set a plan and don't stray from it put it on paper weight out the cost on the diffrent avenue's and go from there
and give chung a call with questions as he can help alot with what you want to do that was my 2 cent's and change

as far as what i want the car to do? i want it in the 12's and then what ever i get if i do the bottle? but for now i just want the damn thing to hook as you can see i stay preaty consistent for the most part. i already for the most part have my mind set on the eldelbrok heads and intake for the car the reason is the write up's from the mags testing they have done for the most part the best ratings unless i've read them wrong? peace


john

 

[WaterPog]

My main curriosity was about the 60' times. It sounds like you're getting about the right MPH for a simple bolt on '94/'95 GT but just not getting it out of the hole very well. Have you seen any increase in MPH as you've done the engine mods?

What were you running for air pressure? I think I remember talking with you and you said something like 25 or 30psi, in which case the DR's really won't make much difference. Should be down in the teens to really get them hooking from what I've seen.

How do you have the control arms adjusted? Did you set their length based on pinion angle or just set them the same as stock?

I also wouldn't bother with the race gas on your car, it's just not needed.

14.0's in a bolt on SN-95 GT is pretty darn good really, with a bit more tuning (chassis tuning mostly, but some engine tuning may find a few ponies as well) you could probably run in the mid-high 13's I'd say just the way it sits.

 

[wicked93]

94 and 95 mustangs don't have a map sensor and are very sensitive to excessive duration and large lobe seperation ( low vacuum cams ). The stage one and two cams are excellent cams in anything other than a sn 95 car.

how much duration is the sn95 able to handle with out giving it fits I did not think 221 @.50 was alot of duration. are you able to tune some of it with a chip
any ways good luck in your venture with what ever you decide to do if you are geting the edelbrock heads I would think about getting them with stud mount rockers instead of the pedestal mount type the rpm heads would be worth a look with the new rpm II intake I have reads some very impressive things on that particular manifold well peace out and hope everything works out for you

 

[Darkness]

...and the 1/4 is between 94-98 mph

...as you can see i stay preaty consistent for the most part.

4 mph difference is not being consistent dude.

 

[Rootus]

how much duration is the sn95 able to handle with out giving it fits I did not think 221 @.50 was alot of duration. are you able to tune some of it with a chip

There's no set rule on what the stock EEC will take before it freaks out. A friend of mine just had AFP install the TFS street kit on his 95 GT vert. To try and keep the EEC happy, he swapped out the TFS stage 1 cam for a Steeda #19, which is specifically designed with a wide LSA to keep good vacuum at idle. But his EEC freaked anyway, and he had to get a chip to make it run correctly.

As for what you can tune out with a chip -- the answer is anything. My cam has a good amount of overlap and makes very low vacuum at idle (nice lope though ) -- with the stock EEC my car won't run at all. You turn the key, it starts, it immediately stalls. With my TwEECer I have it tuned so it basically runs fine, occasionally it surges a little on warm start-up, but otherwise runs better than it did when stock.

Dave

 

[SMOKEDYA]

My main curriosity was about the 60' times. It sounds like you're getting about the right MPH for a simple bolt on '94/'95 GT but just not getting it out of the hole very well. Have you seen any increase in MPH as you've done the engine mods?

What were you running for air pressure? I think I remember talking with you and you said something like 25 or 30psi, in which case the DR's really won't make much difference. Should be down in the teens to really get them hooking from what I've seen.

How do you have the control arms adjusted? Did you set their length based on pinion angle or just set them the same as stock?

I also wouldn't bother with the race gas on your car, it's just not needed.

14.0's in a bolt on SN-95 GT is pretty darn good really, with a bit more tuning (chassis tuning mostly, but some engine tuning may find a few ponies as well) you could probably run in the mid-high 13's I'd say just the way it sits.

my 60' is like 2.0-2.1's but as far as since i did the arms i cant remember?! the race gas i was thinking the same thing just a big waste of money (but it shure smells good) last weekend i ran tire pressure at 18 psi for a couple runs then the rest of the night i went to 16 psi and didnt really notice any diffrence? if you are woundering i say between this number and that number is because it varies when i go it's usually 14.0's all night or 14.1's but i think you understand what i'm trying to say tho. as far as the pinion angle goes i'm going to dink around with it this week and then try to mess with it at the track this weekend. the only thing that sucks it the car is a little lower so it's tough to get under it. peace


john

 

[SMOKEDYA]

how much duration is the sn95 able to handle with out giving it fits I did not think 221 @.50 was alot of duration. are you able to tune some of it with a chip
any ways good luck in your venture with what ever you decide to do if you are geting the edelbrock heads I would think about getting them with stud mount rockers instead of the pedestal mount type the rpm heads would be worth a look with the new rpm II intake I have reads some very impressive things on that particular manifold well peace out and hope everything works out for you

yes if i remember right those are the one's i was looking into but i dont have a or the mag handy now peace


john

 

[SMOKEDYA]

4 mph difference is not being consistent dude.

look at the other post's i put up they were varing like that from the before and after the mods i have done i figured someone would missunderstand me. peace


john

 

[SMOKEDYA]

another kinda of a dumb question for ya does the car have to be level to adjust the upper arms? or can i just put the back end up to get under it? it would make thing's easier if i could just jack the back up and put some stands under the rear axle's. but if i have to then i could raise all 4's off the ground or put all 4's on ramps. damn i knew i should of bought that lift so now i'm looking into a set of full lenth sub frames and engine/tranny mounts as well as a carbon fiber or alumn. shaft. as far as for the rear end i wont do no more to it except for new shocks. this weekend i'll try it without the front sway bar tho? what do you think of that any good or just a hastle to remove it ? i have heard it does make a little diffrence? some of you guy's are yelling CHIP? what kind and what will that set me back for? who has the best price on them and can jeff tune it ? or what's the deal with it do i get the stuff with it to reprogram it ? i really appricate eveyone's input in all this and if you are good at tunning on what i got and willing to hook up some time then i'd pay a little to you just funds suck right now for the time being,jeff has offered and i think i might make it over this week for wide band tunning tho.peace


john

 

[SMOKEDYA]

You still running stock heads, stock intake? In that case 14.0 doesn't seem all that bad . If your upgrades aren't getting you any improvement, then that probably means what you just upgraded wasn't a bottleneck yet . If you have the stock intake, it should be a high priority to be replaced or at least ported, that's a huge bottleneck on the 5.0.

Dave

what is your 13.3 run with the 95?what all is done to the 95 you have i think i've kinda of met you at s/b. i have the green 95 with the flamming horse in the front grill. peace

john