You still running stock heads, stock intake? In that case 14.0 doesn't seem all that bad
Dave
Dave
The intake is definitely a bottlneck that should be addressed early. If you like the GT40 style, I'd probably get the Cobra version (cheaper) and have the lower ported. The Eddy intake is also excellent.
If you ultimately plan to do aluminum heads, I would recommend taking a hard look at the TFS kit. For the money ($2050) it's a very good combo IMO -- comes with heads, cam, intake, and the supporting stuff like valve covers, all gaskets, pushrods, rockers, etc. It's hard to put together a comparable combo from parts for the same price.
Dave
If you ultimately plan to do aluminum heads, I would recommend taking a hard look at the TFS kit. For the money ($2050) it's a very good combo IMO -- comes with heads, cam, intake, and the supporting stuff like valve covers, all gaskets, pushrods, rockers, etc. It's hard to put together a comparable combo from parts for the same price.
Dave
The TFS kit is ok...but the cam is too radical for the 95 and the valve covers are a pain in the butt to fit (cutting breather holes, fabricating baffles, ect)
If you want to piece it together, the Edelbrock or Performance Products Typhoon (identical
If you want to piece it together, the Edelbrock or Performance Products Typhoon (identical
the tfs stage 1 cam is an excellent cam I don't see how it could cause problems on the 95's it is close in specs to the E-303 except has a split duration I ran the stage 1 cam and it was very drivable. I did have a real basic combo at one time that worked real well and got amazing fuel mileage and ran hard in fact ran a 12.8 @ 110 mph on street tires. it was as follows cobra intake, E-303 cam, 24lb injectors, 70mm tb, 73mm c&l maf, edelbrock performer heads with crane 1.7 rockers, bbk shorty headers with off road h-pipe and flowmaster cat back & 3.55 gears
if you want to piece it together the AFR are very good but a little pricey the holley intake with the stage one cam or a comp cams etreme hyd roller would run very hard if you do not want to spend the money on the afr the tfs would work as well. there are alot of ways to go but the main thing to do is to look at what you want the car to be and set a plan and don't stray from it put it on paper weight out the cost on the diffrent avenue's and go from there
and give chung a call with questions as he can help alot with what you want to do that was my 2 cent's and change
if you want to piece it together the AFR are very good but a little pricey the holley intake with the stage one cam or a comp cams etreme hyd roller would run very hard if you do not want to spend the money on the afr the tfs would work as well. there are alot of ways to go but the main thing to do is to look at what you want the car to be and set a plan and don't stray from it put it on paper weight out the cost on the diffrent avenue's and go from there
and give chung a call with questions as he can help alot with what you want to do that was my 2 cent's and change
My main curriosity was about the 60' times. It sounds like you're getting about the right MPH for a simple bolt on '94/'95 GT but just not getting it out of the hole very well. Have you seen any increase in MPH as you've done the engine mods?
What were you running for air pressure? I think I remember talking with you and you said something like 25 or 30psi, in which case the DR's really won't make much difference. Should be down in the teens to really get them hooking from what I've seen.
How do you have the control arms adjusted? Did you set their length based on pinion angle or just set them the same as stock?
I also wouldn't bother with the race gas on your car, it's just not needed.
14.0's in a bolt on SN-95 GT is pretty darn good really, with a bit more tuning (chassis tuning mostly, but some engine tuning may find a few ponies as well) you could probably run in the mid-high 13's I'd say just the way it sits.
What were you running for air pressure? I think I remember talking with you and you said something like 25 or 30psi, in which case the DR's really won't make much difference. Should be down in the teens to really get them hooking from what I've seen.
How do you have the control arms adjusted? Did you set their length based on pinion angle or just set them the same as stock?
I also wouldn't bother with the race gas on your car, it's just not needed.
14.0's in a bolt on SN-95 GT is pretty darn good really, with a bit more tuning (chassis tuning mostly, but some engine tuning may find a few ponies as well) you could probably run in the mid-high 13's I'd say just the way it sits.
AllFordPerf said:
how much duration is the sn95 able to handle with out giving it fits I did not think 221 @.50 was alot of duration. are you able to tune some of it with a chip
any ways good luck in your venture with what ever you decide to do if you are geting the edelbrock heads I would think about getting them with stud mount rockers instead of the pedestal mount type the rpm heads would be worth a look with the new rpm II intake I have reads some very impressive things on that particular manifold well peace out and hope everything works out for you
There's no set rule on what the stock EEC will take before it freaks out. A friend of mine just had AFP install the TFS street kit on his 95 GT vert. To try and keep the EEC happy, he swapped out the TFS stage 1 cam for a Steeda #19, which is specifically designed with a wide LSA to keep good vacuum at idle. But his EEC freaked anyway, and he had to get a chip to make it run correctly.wicked93 said:
As for what you can tune out with a chip -- the answer is anything. My cam has a good amount of overlap and makes very low vacuum at idle (nice lope though
Dave
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