Old Clutch removal has begun...

HEAVYGT · Jan 16, 2008

Well last night Erin and his brother Brian came over to start the removal of the old burned out clutch...the worst problem being (besides it was frickin' 20 degrees out) that with the Kenne Bell blower installed, the engine will not drop far and angle enough to remove the trans easily. The Kenne Bell buts up right to the firewall and there just isn't enough play.

Erin can probably elaborate more on this as he smashed a pinky and got a free mouthful of burnt clutch...sorry bro!

Old clutch...I'm gonna see if Ford will take this back!

After the trans was dropped...the blower had to be removed in order to let the engine angle far enough back to be able to install the trans back. The worst part was trying to pop the blower after Erin RTV'd it from the initial install. It just didn't want to pop off and had to be pried off very carefully. It's gonna be a real pain in the ass to change the blower oil on this thing! I am very surprised Kenne Bell didn't come up with a user friendlier spot.

After Blower was pried off...

New clutch install continues on Thursday night...

bigcat · Jan 16, 2008

glad im not doing THAT install! Erin has his work cut out for him.

note to all that are thinking about a KB...replace the clutch first to avoid this situation!

and heavy, check your PMs.

kooldawg6 · Jan 16, 2008

Hmmm, Ford taking the clutch back AFTER a KB was installed...yeah, I don't see why not At worst all they can say is no, right? Like big says, earlier today after seeing TCIs new 5 speed auto trans, I may save up for that and the blower at the same time...boy will that be pricey!!!! Who knows, by the time I get that far the '15 model may be hitting the streets

Emay · Jan 16, 2008

Heavy's got the overall hang up explained fairly well, the lack of angle with the KB in its installed state mean the bell housing has an extremely difficult time passing the tunnel while the input shaft fights you at the same time because the lack of space doesn't allow you off of it going rearward.

Highly suggest doing clutch when doing a KB. Not much fun installing the blower twice. It did allow me to get his newly powder coated fuel rails in though, so it's not a total waste of time.

The poor location for the blowers oil drain is going to make this removal mandatory every 10k. Not cool.

kooldawg6 · Jan 17, 2008

Where is the blower oil drain located(pics)?

Emay · Jan 17, 2008

When looking head on at the blower, the drain plug is lower left below the snout. Covered by the mounting plate, which is attatched to the blower from underneath, then bolted to the main intake assembly.

Even if you cnc'd the plate, the main intake assembly it mounts to is in the way.. Also, it's packed behind the alternator, no chance in getting the plug out and even if you were a machinist, how you going to catch the fluid from that location?

Khyron · Jan 17, 2008

More-more-more pics!! I am about to embark on this exact same task and I'm looking for all the "how-to" information I can find. Thanks for starting this post Heavy!!

HEAVYGT · Jan 17, 2008

Emay said:
Highly suggest doing clutch when doing a KB. Not much fun installing the blower twice. It did allow me to get his newly powder coated fuel rails in though, so it's not a total waste of time.

A few pics of the of the new fuel rails as Erin mentioned above.

While the Blower is out...used brake caliber paint to clean up the rear plenum inlet manifold.

belzebub2u · Jan 17, 2008

as for the oil draining, what about installing an L in the plug hole, then when you need to change the oil, hook a hose up to it and use an old fuel pump to suck the oil out, like shops do with tranny fluid?

Emay · Jan 17, 2008

Thought about it, would need to be an immediate 90 degree fitting, that is extremely short. There's less than a 1/4" space from plug exit to mounting plate. Never seen anything that short if anyone has, point me at it. I'm sure Heavy would be all for the change.. Otherwise he'll be calling me every 10k and I'm sure by now he's tired of hearing me complain about bad engineering..

HEAVYGT · Jan 17, 2008

Or maybe I can try a vacuum pump from the top?

lightblade · Jan 17, 2008

Im looking to upgrade my fuel rails for my engine buildup, which ones did you go with and where did u get them?

kooldawg6 · Jan 17, 2008

Thanks for showing the drain plug emay It seems they could've put a small plug on the front of the plate If they keep it as is, tearing it apart to change the oil every 10K miles would be about every 4 months in my case

The fuel rails look nice in there. I like the red, black and blue scheme

Late note: Just noticed your passenger side valve cover has a real oil filler neck molded in...not the cheap stuck in plastic filler neck the factory uses.

HEAVYGT · Jan 18, 2008

kooldawg6 said:
Late note: Just noticed your passenger side valve cover has a real oil filler neck molded in...not the cheap stuck in plastic filler neck the factory uses.

Actually Kool, with the Kenne Bell CAI, the tube running from the throttle body to the fender wouldn't fit and thus the plastic spout had to be removed.

HEAVYGT · Jan 18, 2008

lightblade said:
Im looking to upgrade my fuel rails for my engine buildup, which ones did you go with and where did u get them?

Stock...just custom powder coated!

kooldawg6 · Jan 18, 2008

HEAVYGT said:
Actually Kool, with the Kenne Bell CAI, the tube running from the throttle body to the fender wouldn't fit and thus the plastic spout had to be removed.

Thanks They really pack stuff under the hood anyway they can

HEAVYGT · Jan 19, 2008

kooldawg6 said:
Thanks They really pack stuff under the hood anyway they can

Thats KB engineering for ya

HEAVYGT · Jan 19, 2008

OK…the trans went back in on Thursday night (probably around 10 degrees outside). With the KB blower removed and no longer hitting the firewall, the engine could be tilted enough so that as Erin said, “It slid in like butter.” Now just waiting to bleed the clutch. Need a funky adaptor for the vacuum pump. Brian says he has one so we’ll try that Sunday night.

Another note: when purchasing a new clutch and plate, the manufacturers do not include a throw out bearing. Ford has engineered it so that it is all part of the one-piece slave cylinder assembly. Cost is about $240.00 or so. I choose not to replace mine. Just a heads-up.

kooldawg6 · Jan 19, 2008

Thanks for the update Heavy

Old Clutch removal has begun...

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start with the upper hole, and if more traction is

mine works really well and can take a fair amount

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mine works really well and can take a fair amount

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mine works really well and can take a fair amount

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New Member

mine works really well and can take a fair amount

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New Member

mine works really well and can take a fair amount

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