once again help with codes

91lxntch

Member
Sep 27, 2003
247
0
16
altoona,p.a
ok i am still getting 2 codes and it is really affecting my idle.....here is what it is doing ...the first time i start the car it idles perfect goes to 1400 or so and then drops to 900 and stays smooth ..as soon as i shut it off and restart it it will surge horribly all day long untill the car is cold then its ok...also im intermittingly having a loss of power....i am pulling codes 66 and 21 now i know what they meen but what is my problem and how to fix it....also according to pro m's site the codes can go hand in hand...i have a 76mm c&l but the troubleshooting should be the same...ive replaced..
air filter
fuel filter
pvc
iab
tps
new gaskets
vaccum lines
just about everything
it all started after i installed the h/c/i
also have tried my timing @ 12-21 and it dosent affect it at all so im leaving it @21 base it runs better...
ive also tried a friends 75mm pro m meter and ive tried diff electronics on my 76 ive tried taking out my cold air intake and also clocking it ...nothing helped..it is calibrated properly
is it the actual wires or what..i am at wits end and need to fix this ..
 
Code 21 – ECT sensor out of range. Broken or damaged wiring, bad ECT sensor. Note that that if the outside air temp is below 50 degrees F that the test for the ECT can be in error.

ACT & ECT test data:

The ACT & ECT have the same thermistor, so the table values are the same

Pin 7 on the computer - ECT signal in. at 176 degrees F it should be .80 volts

Pin 25 on the computer - ACT signal in. at 50 degrees F it should be 3.5 volts. It is a good number if the ACT is mounted in the inlet airbox. If it is mounted in the lower intake manifold, the voltage readings will be lower because of the heat transfer. Here's the table :

68 degrees F = 3.02 v
86 degrees F = 2.62 v
104 degrees F = 2.16 v
122 degrees F = 1.72 v
140 degrees F = 1.35 v
158 degrees F = 1.04 v
176 degrees F = .80 v
194 degrees F = .61

Ohms measures at the computer with the computer disconnected, or at the sensor with the sensor disconnected.
50 degrees F = 58.75 K ohms
68 degrees F = 37.30 K ohms
86 degrees F = 27.27 K ohms
104 degrees F = 16.15 K ohms
122 degrees F = 10.97 K ohms
140 degrees F = 7.60 K ohms
158 degrees F = 5.37 K ohms
176 degrees F = 3.84 K ohms
194 degrees F = 2.80 K ohms

Code 66 MAF below minimum test voltage.
Insufficient or no voltage from MAF. Dirty MAF element, bad MAF, bad MAF wiring, missing power to MAF. Check for missing +12 volts on this circuit. Check the two links for a wiring diagram to help you find the red wire for computer power relay switched +12 volts. Check for 12 volts between the red and black wires on the MAF heater (usually pins A & B). while the connector is plugged into the MAF. This may require the use of a couple of safety pins to probe the MAF connector from the back side of it.

There are three parts in a MAF: the heater, the sensor element and the amplifier. The heater heats the MAF sensor element causing the resistance to increase. The amplifier buffers the MAF output signal and has a resistor that is laser trimmed to provide an output range compatible with the computer's load tables.

The MAF output varies with RPM which causes the airflow to increase or decease. The increase of air across the MAF sensor element causes it to cool, allowing more voltage to pass and telling the computer to increase the fuel flow. A decrease in airflow causes the MAF sensor element to get warmer, decreasing the voltage and reducing the fuel flow. Measure the MAF output at pins C & D on the MAF connector (dark blue/orange and tan/light blue) or at pins 50 & 9 on the computer.

At idle = approximately .6 volt
20 MPH = approximately 1.10 volt
40 MPH = approximately 1.70 volt
60 MPH = approximately 2.10 volt

Check the resistance of the MAF signal wiring. Pin D on the MAF and pin 50 on the computer (dark blue/orange wire) should be less than 2 ohms. Pin C on the MAF and pin 9 on the computer (tan/light blue wire) should be less than 2 ohms.

There should be a minimum of 10K ohms between either pin C or D on the MAF and ground.

See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host)

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91eecPinout.gif

To clean the MAF, remove the MAF element and gently spray it with electrical contact cleaner. You can also use non-flammable brake parts cleaner (same chemical in a bigger can & cheaper too). Let it dry and put it back in.
 
im going to try all of that today...but what exactly are the possibility's that could be wrong.....it almost has to be the wire or wires...?? ive tried everything else..what the heck can cause me to have low voltage or broken wire...
 
now today i did another code scan .....with the car at idle temp and i got codes
44 and 94 koer which i do not care i have no smog on it ive had them since day one

koeo i got 11 then a pause and then it blinked 1 time then shot out codes
29-no continutity to vehicle speed sensor cicuit
34-evp voltage above closed limit
95-fuel pump circuit problem

i did not get code 21 or 66 again.......im sure that 21 was only coming on because i never did the test with the car at idle temp....so now what do i do and what is my problem anyone im out of guesses i have all this money wrapped up in this car and have yet to enjoy it ...possibly this could be my idle problem as well since ive replaced everything i could
 
Code 29 - Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) is an electronic sender mounted on the speedo pickup gear on the trans. It works the cruse control for both 5 speed and auto trans cars. On auto trans cars, it tells the computer to speed up the idle slightly as you slow down to a stop to keep the engine from stalling. Check to see if the electrical connector is plugged into it. Cost is under $30 and it is easy to replace.

Code 34 EGR voltage above closed limit - Failed sensor, carbon between EGR pintle valve and seat holding the valve off its seat. Remove the EGR valve and clean it with carbon remover. Prior to re-installing see if you can blow air through the EGR valve by mouth. If you can, replace the EGR valve ($85-$95).

To help troubleshoot the 95 code , follow this link for a wiring diagram http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

Using the diagram, check the red/black wire from the fuel pump relay: you should see 12 volts or so. If not, check the inertia switch: on a hatch it is on the drivers side by the taillight. Look for a black rubber plug that pops out: if you don't find it, then loosen up the plastic trim. Check for voltage on both sides of the switch. If there is voltage on both sides, then check the Pink/black wire on the fuel pump relay: it is the power feed to the fuel pump. Good voltage there, then the fuel pump is the likely culprit since it is getting power. No voltage there, check the Orange/lt blue wire, it is the power feed to the fuel pump relay & has a fuse link in it. Good voltage there & at the Pink/black wire, swap the relay.

Code 34 can cause idle problems if the EGR is leaking.
 
so what exactly are the possibilitys that could be wrong ..im gonna have to get the proper equipment to run some volt tests my multimeter is old and it **** the bed last night......i sort of would like to know what are all these tests gonna show.....it has to be either the wires from the mass or fuel pump to the computer or in between....i dont think it is a relay i didnt think they would intermittingly go..i thought they either worked or they didnt ...i am seriously lost when it comes to these sort of tests ..i wish i coud get an easier explantion and an easier way to fix it...
 
thank you for the info ut im havign trouble interpiting this is there anyone who can give me an easier or more simple way of testign things what ive trying to figure out is what are the possibilitys that could be wrong with me having low voltage to the mass and things