I always recommend the subframes as the best jacking point.
+1. If you are doing suspension work, you obviously can't lift from any points on the suspension. Find the sturdiest, flattest part of the subframe and lift there. Using flat wood blocks (2x or 1x lumber cut about 6" long) on top of the jack pad (if you don't have a plastic or rubber cover) is a good way to avoid scratching or otherwise damaging the lift point. However, you can't really do that with jack stands.
You can always lift the rear of the car from the "pumpkin" on the rear axle, then support the car with jackstands under the subframes, and let the rear axle hang if you're going to be working in it. Another set of jackstands can be used to support the axle (one on each tube, as far outward as possible) while you unbolt control arms, shocks, etc.
For lifting the front of the car, I prefer the center most part of the K member.
The most important part about doing this, is to work slowly and watch the area you are lifting. As soon as you notice a bend or deformation, abort and set the car back down as quickly (and safely) as possible.The underbody of these cars can be deceiving, and you can't always tell how thick the sheet metal is in areas.
BTW, 300th Tech post, FTMFW! :SNSign: