One quick question

[grey5.0beast]

On the starter solenoid, which one is the "S" wire? I am testing my TFI and have gotten down to that step, using these directions(see below) Thanks

Make sure that 12 volt power is available to the TFI connector at the correct terminals with the switch in "RUN" and "START".

Disconnect the EEC computer.

Disconnect the connector to the TFI module on the distributor.

Unplug the fuel pump relay

Disconnect the "S" wire at the starter solenoid

Disconnect the connector at the coil

Hold the TFI connector so that the terminals face out with the locking tab to the right.

The connector pins are referred to as #1 at the bottom up to #6 at the top.

Insert a straight pin into the terminal being probed.

Use a VOM to check for +12 volts on pin #3 with the ignition switch in "RUN"

Use a VOM to check for +12 volts on pins #3 and #4 with the ignition switch in "START"

Use a VOM to check for +12 volts on the red/green wire at the ignition coil in "RUN" and "START" If OK, reconnect all connectors except EEC and fuel pump

Use a VOM to check for +12 volts on the red wire at the TAD and TAB solenoids, EVR, Canister Purge Solenoid, and at the Idle Speed Air Bypass Valve in the "RUN" position

Turn ignition switch to "OFF"

 

[grey5.0beast]

ttt

 

[HISSIN50]

It should be the little wire on the slide-on terminal at the top of the solenoid.

 

[grey5.0beast]

k thats what I was thinking thanks. I'll let you guys know how testing goes, and let's HOPE its a bad tfi so I can get over these problems w/ no more headaches!!!!!!!!!!

 

[grey5.0beast]

Ok well I haven't finished testing everything yet, as I didnot know what a EVR was, but now I know it controls the opening and closing of the EGR, via the TFI. The Tfi also controls the fuel pump turning off, and these problems are simultaneous, IT HAS TO BE THE TFI!!! Yay, I think I can get my car running, I haven't drv ien it in a lil over a month, damn I am excited!!!

 

[grey5.0beast]

Well it says I am getting power to the EVR, but where is the TAD and TAB, are they the valves on the smog pump's lines? There are no power wires going o them, only vacuum lines. and WTF is a canister purge solenoid? and where is it?

one more Q, what relay is directly under the MAF on the wall? It is buzzing loudly and I want to know if it is contributing.

 

[795.0pacecar]

I have a spare TFI module if you want it. There should be wires going to the TAD TAB solenioids, and the canister purge valve is was releases fuel vapors from the carbon canister into the intake.

 

[grey5.0beast]

hellyeah, How much are they, if they are not too much I'll go buy one. I can't find em on any parts places' websites. If not I'll give you a call tomorrow and come pick it up, I GOTTA get this thing running b4 Sat.

 

[795.0pacecar]

They are about 45-60 bucks depending on whether or not its a cheap parts store replacement or not. My spare is actually a somewhat expensive Accel unit.

 

[grey5.0beast]

I can't come by tomorrow, I gotta work, but how's wednesday?

 

[795.0pacecar]

I get off work at 6:30pm on Wednesday so anytime after that is cool with me.

 

[HISSIN50]

Well it says I am getting power to the EVR, but where is the TAD and TAB, are they the valves on the smog pump's lines? There are no power wires going o them, only vacuum lines. and WTF is a canister purge solenoid? and where is it?

one more Q, what relay is directly under the MAF on the wall? It is buzzing loudly and I want to know if it is contributing.

EVR = EGR vacuum regulator.

TAB/TAD: Thermactor Air Bypass/Diverter.

Under the MAF is the WOT relay. If it makes an annoying sound, try moving the relay and it's wiring. The wires vulcanize and you get get a nice buzz from them as things are shorting or malfunctioning. This should not be affecting your issue, unless your AC compressor isnt staying engaged.

Parts stores can test a TFI if needed. Otherwise, it's nice that you got a bud here to help out.

 

[grey5.0beast]

EVR = EGR vacuum regulator.

TAB/TAD: Thermactor Air Bypass/Diverter.

Under the MAF is the WOT relay. If it makes an annoying sound, try moving the relay and it's wiring. The wires vulcanize and you get get a nice buzz from them as things are shorting or malfunctioning. This should not be affecting your issue, unless your AC compressor isnt staying engaged.

Parts stores can test a TFI if needed. Otherwise, it's nice that you got a bud here to help out.

Well I am getting a HIGH tps volatge at WOT under my mem. codes, so that relay could be that problem. Then I will replace the TFI and see if that finishes it off. Thanks for all the help

 

[grey5.0beast]

I get off work at 6:30pm on Wednesday so anytime after that is cool with me.

Well I wouldn't get there till probably 9, I get on work at 4 wed. and off at 8, so if thats cool, I can leave directly from work. I will go to a parts store first for them to test my tfi tomorrow mornin then I'll let you know, and if its bad and its cool w/ you that I come that late then I can make the trip. Thanks alot man!

 

[HISSIN50]

Well I am getting a HIGH tps volatge at WOT under my mem. codes, so that relay could be that problem. Then I will replace the TFI and see if that finishes it off. Thanks for all the help

I'm not aware of a code for TPS being high at WOT. If WOT voltage is 4.5-5.0 volts, it should be alright.

Good luck with it.

 

[Dean85GT]

Offtopic but did you get that blower on your car?