One wire alt. to the batt. side of solinoid?

I have an idea and was just wondering, I am moving the bat. to the trunk and I am using 00 gauge wire from the solinoid to the bat. (in the trunk) and then I was told that I need to run the same size wire from the alt. to the batt. (one wire alt.) Well what about running a wire to the batt. side of the solinoid instead of all the way back to the trunk? I would like to not run a second 00 gauge wire to trunk if I can help it.
I appreciate any help with this! Thanks! :nice:
  • Sponsors (?)

It is pretty much the same thing as running a lead to the batt + post, BE SURE to run a heavy awg wire for your ground. If you neglect your ground you will be sorry- high resistance ground will smoke wires ... not good

bite the bullet and run same awg wire from batt neg post to your quad shock bracket in rear. Then from the same bolt on the bracket, run same awg wire to the front sway bar mount, and from there run another wire to the engine block. This will eliminate any reason for poor ground in your electrical system. Be sure your starter is up to par also, gear reduction starters match well with relocated batts due to they dont pull as much amperage.
Also, stock alternators struggle enough to charge the 5.0s batt in its stock location, moving it 10ft farther away only creates more problems. Invest in a 130A 3G and do the swap, then say goodbye to charging problems.

Thanks alot Brown 5.0, I really appreciate the help! :nice: I am using (double) 00 gauge wire, I am sure that it will be big enough. I am using it for the ground from the batt. and from the motor (I have full length sub-frame connectors welded in). I am also running 0 gauge wire from the alt. to the batt. side of the solinoid, I think this would be big enough, then it can ride the one 00 gauge wire back to the batt.
I got the 00 gauge wire from a welding supply store. Up here in the NW we have what is called NORCO welding supply. I got the welding cable for $1.46 per foot. At a local battery store it was $4.36 a foot and at a stereo shop 0 gauge was $3.99 a foot. Save yourself and find a welding supply store by you or even go to the internet.
Thanks again everyone! :nice:
Its better to run the power wire for the alternator back to the positive terminal of the battery when the battery is relocated. If you hook the alternator power wire up the starter solenoid the car will draw power from the alternator and not from the battery like it should.

I ran my car for two years with a relocated battery and PA performance 130amp alternator setup. My car had problems with low fuel pump voltage and hard charging once it warmed up. I killed two PA 130amp alternators during the two years because of all the stress my setup put on them.

I thought that the 130amp alternator wasnt enough for my setup so I stepped up to a 200amp piece. Even tho its rated at 200amps the car would still struggle at idle and it would get worse as the car heated up. I ran 4ga wire from the alternator back to the positive terminal of the battery and my problems are now gone. With the car warmed up and all the accessories on with an 850rpm idle it reads above the third notch (from the bottom)on the stock gauge :) The car spins the starter with ease now and has no problems what so ever.


I have been really wondering about running the alt. wire to the batt. side of the solinoid for what reason I did not really know but I think you have solved my problem. I knew that the best way was just to run the alts own wire but dam, two 2/0 guage wires under the car, that just sucks but if that is what it takes then that is what I will do. I may make the Alt wire smaller but only to 1/0. Again, I would like to thank all of you who have helped me out here! :nice: I appreciate it!! :D

I am so sorry, I was not paying attention to my typing. :nonono: I mean you no disrespect. PS any stang that is blown I am envious of, nice!