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Opinion for N/A motor

  • Thread starter Thread starter Mustang90GT50
  • Start date Start date Jun 22, 2004
M

Mustang90GT50

New Member
Feb 19, 2004
101
0
0
Vancouver, WA
Jun 22, 2004
#1
  • Jun 22, 2004
  • #1
I would like to build on my engine. Its a 93 GT with 78K on it. Mostly stock and I would like to run low 12's to mid 11's n/a. What would you reccomend? Thanks for all input in advance.
 
M

Mustang90GT50

New Member
Feb 19, 2004
101
0
0
Vancouver, WA
Jun 22, 2004
#2
  • Jun 22, 2004
  • #2
Oh yeah... budget isn't a concern but this car is going to be n/a with no chance of a supercharger, turbo, or nitrous. I have another for that! Thanks
 
M

Mustang90GT50

New Member
Feb 19, 2004
101
0
0
Vancouver, WA
Jun 30, 2004
#3
  • Jun 30, 2004
  • #3
Any input?!? Some one has to have something...
 

RydeOn

Licensed to Chill
Founding Member
Sep 26, 2000
6,273
1
77
orange county, CA
Jun 30, 2004
#4
  • Jun 30, 2004
  • #4
this is a broad question for being asked in the technical section. prolly why you didnt get any answers. hang around and learn the basics first. youll probably need a 306 or 331 with a nice H/C/I package.
 

samuraichamploo

Member
Mar 18, 2004
367
0
16
Beaumont, TX
Jun 30, 2004
#5
  • Jun 30, 2004
  • #5
Cut holes in the floorpans and get the flinstone family mod.
 

Grn92LX

Fidanza Man!
Founding Member
Jan 14, 2001
6,819
64
129
New York
Jun 30, 2004
#6
  • Jun 30, 2004
  • #6
Since budget isn't a concern, heres my suggestion, but its NOT a 12 sec set up dart block, scat 4340 347 rotating assembly, afr 205 heads, edelbrock rpm 2 intake, ed curtis cam, 1 3/4" longtubes and top it off with 410 gears (minimum) Put a slick on it and drive and say hello to n/a 10's Supporting mods would be 80mm maf, 42lb injectors, 75mm TB or 75mm race TB (which is 90mm but 75mm @ the blade) and a nice tune to finalize it
 

ECU5.0

Banned
Jan 10, 2004
1,803
1
0
raleigh, nc
Jun 30, 2004
#7
  • Jun 30, 2004
  • #7
it isnt that hard, 25thmustang proved that to us with his 12.63 second run on a 302 with cobra intake, gears, and pullies. but your best bet would be a really nice suspension set up, MM or Griggs, a 331 stroker w/ AFR 165's, custom cam, intake
 
A

autoXr1

Founding Member
May 3, 2001
1,838
0
0
Michigan
Jun 30, 2004
#8
  • Jun 30, 2004
  • #8
One thing one has to remember is that, generally, in order for a naturally aspirated engine to increase it's power, it often needs to increase the RPM significantly. I've got a roadrace combo, which has a relatively wide powerband, but I'm pushing 7000RPM to reach maximum power. I can drive it on the street, however, it is a bit of work for the stop and go of daily street driving.

That said, be careful what you wish for. If you want a powerful street car, then build one...but naturally aspirated might not be the route you want to go. The money you would spend on a killer head-cam-intake combo might be better spent on a supercharger or turbocharger. There are a lot of "small" parts that need to be obtained besides the H/C/I, like roller rockers, lifters, pushrods, fasteners, etc. It all adds up quick. A SC or TC combo will likely give you the low end grunt you need for the street, whereas a NA combo will likely need some steep gears just to regain all the valuable low end you are likely to loose.
 

cjman15

Banned
Apr 15, 2004
1,009
0
0
Fairfield, PA
Jun 30, 2004
#9
  • Jun 30, 2004
  • #9
thats deep right there.... good wisdom
 

5.0 HOtrain

Founding Member
May 20, 2001
2,247
0
47
New Hampshire
Jun 30, 2004
#10
  • Jun 30, 2004
  • #10
Why not go with more inches, it does it for the ladies, why not the stang Have you considered a 351 based stroker? My #'s in sig are on PUMP gas with box stock stuff. Just a thought.
mike.
 

89MustangGX

I have nothing productive to add!
Jul 3, 2001
10,262
1
0
Mill Creek, WA
Jun 30, 2004
#11
  • Jun 30, 2004
  • #11
ECU5.0 said:
it isnt that hard, 25thmustang proved that to us with his 12.63 second run on a 302 with cobra intake, gears, and pullies.
Click to expand...

Ehh...it's not quite like that. There's alot more work in there that really helps -- you wouldn't go out and just bolt that stuff on and run those numbers.
 

bock

Founding Member
Jan 7, 2002
648
2
19
Montreal,Qc
Jun 30, 2004
#12
  • Jun 30, 2004
  • #12
look at my sig, completly stock short block... maybe not as fast as you wich,but near,and its a full weight car except for the aluminium heads ,delete pump,sway bar... and the gt-40 is 10 pounds lighter than the stock intake...
 

ECU5.0

Banned
Jan 10, 2004
1,803
1
0
raleigh, nc
Jun 30, 2004
#13
  • Jun 30, 2004
  • #13
89MustangGX said:
Ehh...it's not quite like that. There's alot more work in there that really helps -- you wouldn't go out and just bolt that stuff on and run those numbers.
Click to expand...

yeah i know, you also have to be able to drive it too. but stock suspension with intake, gears and pullies is pretty sweet for runnin those those times
 

89MustangGX

I have nothing productive to add!
Jul 3, 2001
10,262
1
0
Mill Creek, WA
Jun 30, 2004
#14
  • Jun 30, 2004
  • #14
ECU5.0 said:
yeah i know, you also have to be able to drive it too. but stock suspension with intake, gears and pullies is pretty sweet for runnin those those times
Click to expand...

Not what I meant. It's not a stock shortblock and heads, it's a "stock" shortblock and heads. And don't forget other stuff like a good full exhaust, TB, the usual bolt-on's. Don't be mislead into thinking it's stock.
 

EMW150

Founding Member
May 22, 2000
2,020
1
46
Roaring Spring,PA
Jul 1, 2004
#15
  • Jul 1, 2004
  • #15
autoXr1 said:
One thing one has to remember is that, generally, in order for a naturally aspirated engine to increase it's power, it often needs to increase the RPM significantly. I've got a roadrace combo, which has a relatively wide powerband, but I'm pushing 7000RPM to reach maximum power. I can drive it on the street, however, it is a bit of work for the stop and go of daily street driving.

That said, be careful what you wish for. If you want a powerful street car, then build one...but naturally aspirated might not be the route you want to go. The money you would spend on a killer head-cam-intake combo might be better spent on a supercharger or turbocharger. There are a lot of "small" parts that need to be obtained besides the H/C/I, like roller rockers, lifters, pushrods, fasteners, etc. It all adds up quick. A SC or TC combo will likely give you the low end grunt you need for the street, whereas a NA combo will likely need some steep gears just to regain all the valuable low end you are likely to loose.
Click to expand...

Although I really like to see N/A combos, I definately agree with this post. To make power N/A it has to be a pretty hardcore combo. My car's powerband is from 4500 to 7600 rpms and I run a 4:56 gear. I've lost alot of streetabitlity over the years which is kinda disturbing to me. I still drive it on the street but it's very limited. It's no longer just jump in it and go for a spin. With a power adder it's alot easier to stay streetable.
 
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