Opinions on Stud Girdles

[66P51GT]

I'm building a standard bore 302 using a new FMS block, nodular crank, forged rods and pistons. I have a set of ported Edelbrock RPM heads, RPM intake, and a Crane roller cam. I'll be putting out about 360HP - 380HP at the crank with a redline in the 6,800 RPM range. I also have ARP stud kits for the heads and mains.

I may add a 150 shot in the future.

Should I even consider one with the HP and RPM range I'm building for?

 

[mustang70]

Are you talking about a main stud girdle or rocker arm stud girdle? If you're talking about the main stud and it's a two bolt bolt, I would definitly consider the girdle. It never hurts to over build the block. Especially if you're planning on nitrous.

 

[66P51GT]

Yes, I am talking about the main studs and it is a new FMS 5.0 block.

I'm using 7/16 ARP screw in studs and Pro Comp Magnum Rockers so the valvetrain should be covered. I won't be hitting RPMs that would require a rocker arm stud girdle.

 

[mustang70]

I'm not familiar with thay block, but if it's a two bolt main, then get the girdle. I would get the girdle and windage tray set up. You'll gain some strength and a little bit of power.

 

[66P51GT]

It is just a standard Ford Motorsport 5.0 roller block.

 

[usedtobe 67p51d]

it will tak a damn good machine shop to set a gridle right. if the plate is not flushwith the caps it creates bind or twist in the plate and I wouldn't have much confidence in it. {I'll check if I still have one in my discard pile...my shop couldn't square my caps to my likeing

as far as the valve train gridle I busted several rocker studs in the 6800-7000 range spend the $150 bucks on this

 

[mustang70]

I still think it's a good idea. I'm going to run one when I build the 427 I've been dreaming about. A little extra insurance never helps. Don't rocker girdles also help hold the adjustment?