Optima Red Top 75/35.

[The Green GT]

I got one today because my cheap o battery finally died. It looks a ****load better an all I had to do was "modify" the walls of the battery tray with some pliers.


And I paid like $180 for the damn thing at Oreileys. They were the only ones who had it, I really wanted it, and I needed it ASAP.

Anyway, whats a good battery relocation kit? Since I got this nice battery, I dont want to get it all dirty to blend with the engine, so I figure Ill more it.

 

[95strokerPSU]

2/0 welding cable. Do it yourself, it's a lot cheaper

 

[Yobi1Kanobi]

I just went through that decision...And came to the conclusion it might be more helpful if I was a race car but for a street car...Just not needed...convince me otherwise please...

 

[SublimeRT]

^^^ Why'd you need a 347 and TKO600 in a street car? .......cause you can and it's freakin sweet.

 

[HGFireHazard]

Since I need to purchase a new alternator when I pull the car out, this has been on my research list for the past couple of months.

It seems to me that if you are interested in replacing all of your cables it would be better to buy everything from one place if you can and piece together your own kit.

Personally, I think 2/0 is overkill and 1/0 would work just fine.

There is an eBay user, genuinedealz, that has all the stuff that I'm looking for and I'll probably get my stuff from there. It's tinned marine cable and supposedly very flexible. Here are the prices I've dug up:

(1) 1/0 (25ft) 103.75
(1) 4 AWG (50ft) 84.00
(2) 1/0 Battery Terminal 5.48
(4) 1/0 Cable Crimp 3/8 4.48
(10) 4 AWG Cable Crimp 3/8 9.10
(2) 1/0 Solder Slug Pellets 2.30
(5) 4 AWG Slug Pellets 2.25
(1) 3/4 in. bl shrink tube 2.15
(1) 3/4 in. red shrink tube 2.15

(^^ Prices are total, not per)

Connections:

+ Battery to Toggle Switch (1 Battery Terminal, 1 1/0 Connector)
+ Toggle Switch to Starter (2 1/0 Connectors)
+ Starter to Distribution Box (2 4 AWG Connectors)
+ Alternator to Battery (2 4 AWG Connectors) (unless get battery terminals that accept wire)
+ Alternator In-Line Fuse (2 4 AWG Connectors) (unless get ANL fuse holder that accepts wire)
- Battery to Quad Shock Mount (1 Battery Terminal, 1 1/0 Connector)
- Quad Shock to Engine Ground (2 4 AWG Connectors)
- Engine Ground to Chassis (2 4 AWG Connectors)

If you wanted it legal for the strip just add a cut off, Moroso from Summit is $40, some type of tie down for the battery.

I've done a ton of reading about what's the right way to wire everything up and make sure the PCM runs correctly and blah blah... and the above is what I've come up with. Oh, and you'd want to add battery terminals and an in-line fuse for the alternator to battery connection. I'm opting for better stuff on those items than that user has.

Also, my wire lengths are quite conservative, but I wanted to make sure I had some left over for some re-wiring on my audio in my other car.

 

[Black Stampede]

Yeah Optimas are great. My car sat for a year and a half and of course my optima was junk by then so I brought it in and they handed me a brand new one.

I bought the Summit battery relocation kit. I was gonna piece a kit together, but summit owed me a 10 or 20 dollar credit so I just put it towards the kit. It comes with a nice box and then stuff I thought worked great. Btw, if you research them, I got the better of the two kits. I think it has better wire. Good luck!

 

[ford302redneck]

IMO, 1/0 is not needed.

Theres not gonna be more than 150 amps going threw that wire for more than 30 secs.

Check, knukonceptz.com Great wire for the price.

There 4gauge prolly equals some welding cable 1/0 gauge.

 

[Yobi1Kanobi]

^^^ Why'd you need a 347 and TKO600 in a street car? .......cause you can and it's freakin sweet.

I wanted a little bit more power to pass at highway speeds.:Zip2:

 

[Bosko5.0]

Since I need to purchase a new alternator when I pull the car out, this has been on my research list for the past couple of months.

It seems to me that if you are interested in replacing all of your cables it would be better to buy everything from one place if you can and piece together your own kit.

Personally, I think 2/0 is overkill and 1/0 would work just fine.

There is an eBay user, genuinedealz, that has all the stuff that I'm looking for and I'll probably get my stuff from there. It's tinned marine cable and supposedly very flexible. Here are the prices I've dug up:

(1) 1/0 (25ft) 103.75
(1) 4 AWG (50ft) 84.00
(2) 1/0 Battery Terminal 5.48
(4) 1/0 Cable Crimp 3/8 4.48
(10) 4 AWG Cable Crimp 3/8 9.10
(2) 1/0 Solder Slug Pellets 2.30
(5) 4 AWG Slug Pellets 2.25
(1) 3/4 in. bl shrink tube 2.15
(1) 3/4 in. red shrink tube 2.15

(^^ Prices are total, not per)

Connections:

+ Battery to Toggle Switch (1 Battery Terminal, 1 1/0 Connector)
+ Toggle Switch to Starter (2 1/0 Connectors)
+ Starter to Distribution Box (2 4 AWG Connectors)
+ Alternator to Battery (2 4 AWG Connectors) (unless get battery terminals that accept wire)
+ Alternator In-Line Fuse (2 4 AWG Connectors) (unless get ANL fuse holder that accepts wire)
- Battery to Quad Shock Mount (1 Battery Terminal, 1 1/0 Connector)
- Quad Shock to Engine Ground (2 4 AWG Connectors)
- Engine Ground to Chassis (2 4 AWG Connectors)

If you wanted it legal for the strip just add a cut off, Moroso from Summit is $40, some type of tie down for the battery.

I've done a ton of reading about what's the right way to wire everything up and make sure the PCM runs correctly and blah blah... and the above is what I've come up with. Oh, and you'd want to add battery terminals and an in-line fuse for the alternator to battery connection. I'm opting for better stuff on those items than that user has.

Also, my wire lengths are quite conservative, but I wanted to make sure I had some left over for some re-wiring on my audio in my other car.

genuinedealz I bought my connectors from them.

 

[SublimeRT]

I wanted a little bit more power to pass at highway speeds.:Zip2:

Hahaha, nice answer.