Yes, reluctantly. I had stainless flex lines from a local speed shop on my Ghia and one of them failed. I think the rubber is on flex lines for a reason LOL. I will give them a try because it is just easier. The Ghia was my only car and I drove it alot all year round. My Mach is a fair weather summer toy, so I don't suspect I will have any problems. Everyone and their brother has a cailiper up grade for this set-up so purhaps down the road I will up-grade. I was looking at more expensive kits but this is an expensive proposition if you factor in changing the rear to five bolt and then buying a whole new tire and wheel package togeather.
I was thinking about your project. I don't think what you have planned for the front rotors is going to work. The shop that is redrilling my Axles and drums has done it a million times for a local hot rod shop. (they put bolt pattern re-drilled 8" II rear ends in their street rods). Anyway he said that one of the holes in the drum would intersect one of the original holes. On a drum it causes no problems, but how would that work on a rotor?? The original bolt pattern in an axle gets plug welded and redrilled but you can't do that with a cast iron rotor can you???
If this is the case you could likely source a 4on 4 1/4 rotor hat and have a proper sized 2 piece rotor that would work with the Granada/Gm brake set-up.
Geez ford should have put 5 bolt 14" magnum 500's on the II. They had all the parts sitting around in 1974!!!
When I had my rotors done in 1984, the machine shop overbored the one original offending hole to approx 1" diameter. They then machined an interference fit sleeve to be pressed into the hole. They then drilled for the 5-lug studs. As I recall, the offending stud was drilled through the intersection of the rotor and sleeve, which locked the sleeve and stud in place.
I'll have to see if I can get a pic to more clearly illustrate this.
Of course, this was all long before 5-lug rotors were an off the shelf deal. They were the 3rd shop I tried. Couple young former John Deere machinists that had been laid off when the farm economy took a dump. The other shops just really didn't want to mess with it, but these guys were young, hungry and open-minded enough to look at it as a challenge. I often wonder how they made out, you don't find people like that just anywhere, even in those days.
Oh yeah, I should add...those rotors are still on the car today, and have logged over 30,000 miles. Never a problem out of them.
The kit looks like the parts I put together back in 1992. TSM brackets with factorey spindles, 78 Camaro calipers. The banjo fitting for the brake hose aligned with the upper A-arm so that if I hit a bump while at lock, the A-arm would shear off the banjo bolt. I bought a set of Wilwood Gen 1 calipers that took care of the problem, but getting there was frustrating.
Take a careful look at how everything lines up and watch for interference. Hopefully the kit was well engineered.
I put the kit on last night. It was a piece of cake to install. Everything seems to line up O.K. My only complaints are there were no instuctions with the kit. I left the stock rotor splash sheilds on, and now that I have it all togeather, I may rip it apart and take them off! 9 1/2" sheilds dont do much for 11" rotors. The only other thing was the cailper bracket required a 2 1/2 " long 1/2" Fine thread bolts. I am not sure if a II's original Cailper bracket had these fastners, but mine sure didn't. (I bolted my whole car togeather myself, so it may just be a Jason engineering problem, hehe.) The optional brake line kit is not Mustang II friendly. (May be fine for a street rod or race car). The lines seem to be a little short. I got it to work, but I may change them. The lines are bare stainless without any abraision coating on them. I may just order some sheilded lines a couple of inches longer and use the supplied fittings. The lines are just long enough with the car raised. (a few extra inch would have eased my mind). The Allstar kit must be engineered different then your kit, the banjo fitting is 2 miles away from coming in contact with anything, must come down to where they place the caliper. This kit has them in the stock location, I have seen kits where they rotate the cailper down a few degrees from the stock local. I took lots of photo's I am going to submit them to Sleeper and ask him to make it a sticky. I plan to document the whole 5 bolt change over.
This week-end I took the brakes apart, to remove the rotor splash sheilds. When the sheilds were removed, I noticed the back of the rotor was coming in contact with the lower control arm! The rotor spun freely but you could here minor contact, I assumed it was the dust shields! The rotor was actually grazing the lower control arm at certain steering angles!! I removed a tiny bit of material from the control arm and all is fine now. The left lower control arm must of been stamped the Friday before a long week-end because it had a really messy looking edge to it!. I did the same to the passenger side for good measure, but there was no contact issues. It was a pain in the junk, but I am glad I noticed it before the car hit the road!! Photo's to follow (once I complete project 5 bolt)