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Overheating / Faulty Water Pump Verification

  • Thread starter Thread starter NoTreadDyl
  • Start date Start date Jan 9, 2017
N

NoTreadDyl

Member
Oct 11, 2016
49
3
18
Jan 9, 2017
#1
  • Jan 9, 2017
  • #1
Hey guys,

More issues no doubt. My 86 is overheating. I noticed steam the other day when I parked, it appeared to be coming from the cap so I thought maybe I just need a new rad cap but I am wondering how to confirm for certain the cause of the overheating. I have driven it once since the initial issue, I refilled the coolant and drove it until the temp gauge raised than looked to see if I could spot the leak, by the time I had the hood off I could not see a visible leak but it seamed to be coming from the top of the rad near the cap area. By the time I made the 8 minute drive home the temp gauge was all the way into the hot reading, drove it for only a minute or 2 like this and I have no water what so ever in my oil so hoping no head gasket issues.

When I turn the car on right now I feel no water pumping through the upper rad hose, does this indicate my pump is faulty or do I need to let it idle a certain length of time before I should feel the coolant flowing?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I have to do my valve seals but can't afford the valve spring tool but need to get this issue dealt with right away.

Thanks in advance for any advice, you guys have got me through more than one repair!
 

mikestang63

SN Certified Technician
Aug 27, 2012
11,606
8,859
214
In the garage
Jan 9, 2017
#2
  • Jan 9, 2017
  • #2
normally when a water pump goes you can tell by the following symptoms
  • leakiing out of the weep hole on the top or bottom of the water pump- indicates the bearing gone
  • if you grab the water pump pulley/fan and it can wiggle side to side or up and down, the bearings are bad
If you need a new water pump, get a replacement Ford unit, and know that the bolts are prone to snapping off.

If when the car is running and with the cap offf you do not see the water flowing across the top, then it could be due to
  • clogged radiator- is ithe original?
  • stuck closed thermostat
  • bad water pump
  • collapsed radiator hose
Feel if the upper hose is significantly hotter than the lower hose, that is an indicator

You often cannot see where the leak is coming from. Are you having to add coolant? Do you have the overflow connected and the hose is not kinked? The first thing I would do is rent a coolant pressure tester- with the car off bring the system up to the cap pressure of 16lb and it should hold it for at least 30 min. If it drops you have a leak somewhere- you may be able to see/hear it.. You can also test the cap. Your lower hose should have an anti collapse spring in it so it doesnt collapse under pressure.

I would also drain out the system, use a good flush and then drain it out and fill and flush it out with plain water, and then refill it again with a 50/50 mix of coolant and distilled water. Use a Lisle funnel to ensure you get all of the air out of the system.
 

JD1964

there is enough sticking out to grab on to
15 Year Member
Jun 28, 2013
3,432
1,524
194
Maryland
Jan 10, 2017
#3
  • Jan 10, 2017
  • #3
Change the t stat first. Not expensive. If that does not improve it, clogged radiator would be the next thing I'd be looking for. When the rad is clogged, usually you can start the car and it will be ok just sitting there idling. But when you increase the load by driving the car, it overheats.
 
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