OVERHEATING!! I did 2 mods today, which one did it?
- Thread starter 84convertablegt
- Start date
hummm, did u use hi temp silicone when installing them on both sides of the gasket? and were they the actual ford motorsport ones or generic chrome parts?
jerry S
New Member
were these under-drive pullies? I understand that these can slow down the water pump to such an extent that it causes your car to overheat at idle or even low rpms.
Yes, it was a combination of underdrive pullies, a slipping belt, rusty coolant, a bad radiator cap, and not enough fan cfm.... so i basically re worked the cooling system and now all is good!jerry S said:
All three were FMS pieces and I used Permatex "Ultra-Blue" ( a thin layer) on both sides of the gasket ( on the gasketed ones) and a little on the "O" ringed version. I think it's got more to do with the chrome being too "slick" than the quality of the pieces. I'm still using the FE one on my 68 Merc's 390, but it still seeps coolant now and then. As for the small block ones? They make dandy paper weights84convertablegt said:
I'll stick with the aluminum ones. 
yeah, they are slick... where do u find an aluminum one? ive only seen the chrome and cast pieces. the cast pieces i dont like. but a polished aluminum would be just a nice as the chrome, but ive never even see one before!
The stock T-stat housings were either iron or aluminum. I just picked a nice one out of my parts pile and cleaned and somewhat polished it myself. I used one that had the boss there for the vacuum switch and drilled it out, tapped it and used it for the temp sender for the factory temp gauge.
ive heard of many people using the boss in the water outlet for a temp sender. that is not the best way to do things and heres why. there is no water running over the sender until after the thermostat starts opening. so if your thermostat is broken and doesnt open, u have no clue how hot things are. thats why they put the senders in the upper intake water jackets, pre thermostat.
I dont know if im a little late here, but I stumbled on this topic today.
I think its your pulleys.
Everyones selling these underdrive pulleys to 'give you more power'.They might help your new GT mustang for a few ponies, but you put them on your early style mustang and now your car overheats and wont charge at idle, "NO THANKS".
If your car is a street car,You should be overdriving your waterpump and your alternator.
Your waterpump pulley should be anywhere from 3/4" - 1 1/2" smaller than your crank pulley (depending upon what type of driving you do)
and your alternator should have approx. 3:1 ratio of your crank pulley.
example :
6" crank
5" W/Pump
2" Alternator
Id reccomend talking to someone at Jones racing products, or street and performance before you order any underdrive pulley kit.
good luck
I think its your pulleys.
Everyones selling these underdrive pulleys to 'give you more power'.They might help your new GT mustang for a few ponies, but you put them on your early style mustang and now your car overheats and wont charge at idle, "NO THANKS".
If your car is a street car,You should be overdriving your waterpump and your alternator.
Your waterpump pulley should be anywhere from 3/4" - 1 1/2" smaller than your crank pulley (depending upon what type of driving you do)
and your alternator should have approx. 3:1 ratio of your crank pulley.
example :
6" crank
5" W/Pump
2" Alternator
Id reccomend talking to someone at Jones racing products, or street and performance before you order any underdrive pulley kit.
good luck
Yeah, a little late.grego37 said:
i figured it out a long time ago and it was the pulleys. i didnt know they were underdrives until i looked them up on march's website, i got them on ebay. oh well, problem solved and car is running fine now with stock pulleys.
iskwezm
10 Year Member
I have never heard of ANYBODY having luck with those pulleys 
Even on my 94 GMC pick up ran hot,dead batteries etc.
Even on my 94 GMC pick up ran hot,dead batteries etc.
