Yes, it was a combination of underdrive pullies, a slipping belt, rusty coolant, a bad radiator cap, and not enough fan cfm.... so i basically re worked the cooling system and now all is good!jerry S said:were these under-drive pullies? I understand that these can slow down the water pump to such an extent that it causes your car to overheat at idle or even low rpms.
All three were FMS pieces and I used Permatex "Ultra-Blue" ( a thin layer) on both sides of the gasket ( on the gasketed ones) and a little on the "O" ringed version. I think it's got more to do with the chrome being too "slick" than the quality of the pieces. I'm still using the FE one on my 68 Merc's 390, but it still seeps coolant now and then. As for the small block ones? They make dandy paper weights84convertablegt said:hummm, did u use hi temp silicone when installing them on both sides of the gasket? and were they the actual ford motorsport ones or generic chrome parts?
On the contrary, I've got the factory sender there, and a mech one in the other hole. This way I can see whether or not the T-stat is opening, by the factory gauges response.84convertablegt said:ive heard of many people using the boss in the water outlet for a temp sender. that is not the best way to do things and heres why. there is no water running over the sender until after the thermostat starts opening. so if your thermostat is broken and doesnt open, u have no clue how hot things are. thats why they put the senders in the upper intake water jackets, pre thermostat.
Yeah, a little late.grego37 said:I dont know if im a little late here, but I stumbled on this topic today.
I think its your pulleys.
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