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Engine Overheating issue

  • Thread starter Thread starter Black_Hammer
  • Start date Start date Sep 11, 2021
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Black_Hammer

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Jun 17, 2021
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Myrtle Beach, SC
Sep 11, 2021
#1
  • Sep 11, 2021
  • #1
Hey guys, I purchased a 1988 Mustang GT recently and have been having some overheating issues. The car came with an aftermarket dual fan SVE radiator, model 8005A. The previous owner had removed the fan shroud so, now there is no shroud. Could this be the cause of the overheating? If so, will an original GT shroud fit on this dual fan radiator?

Thanks, Hammer
 

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KRUISR

10 Year Member
Apr 16, 2015
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Sep 11, 2021
#2
  • Sep 11, 2021
  • #2
From what I see in the second pic, the shroud is still there for the e-fans. As with all these overheating threads, please define overheating? Is this statement based on rad boiling over, temp gauge moving up into upper range, measurement of excessive temperatures on driver side of rad?

Another question, are the fans still working? Can you manually trigger them to see they operate?
 
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Black_Hammer

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Jun 17, 2021
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Sep 11, 2021
#3
  • Sep 11, 2021
  • #3
Thanks and you are right I need to clarify. I see the reservoir is empty at times. If I top it off it ends up empty. But the main thing I see is the temp gauge on the cluster gets pinned at 270 stays there a few minutes and drops to dead center normal. But it will go up high again and back down. I almost thought the fans weren’t running. I checked the fuse on the raditor which looks good.

Since I didn’t put the radiator in I don’t know much about the fans. I don’t see a pot to turn to change the temp to trigger it manually.
 

91TwighlightGT

20+ Year Stangneter
Sep 8, 2002
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Missouri
Sep 11, 2021
#4
  • Sep 11, 2021
  • #4
Sounds more like a blown head gasket to me. The coolant is either going on the ground or out the tail pipe.

it doesn’t preclude you having another cooling issue as well.
 

KRUISR

10 Year Member
Apr 16, 2015
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Sep 12, 2021
#5
  • Sep 12, 2021
  • #5
I would take a temperature reading of the driver side rad tank with an infrared gun. That will tell you if your gauge is reading right. If temp of rad tank is under 200-210, I would think your gauge sender is faulty, time for a new one.

The coolant tank going down could be you don't have the cooling system filled all the way. I would open rad cap, start car and let it warm up. Watch for coolant flowing through the cores into the end tank (this means thermostat is open) and then slowly add coolant to fill rad. When full, put cap back on (engine still running) and let run for a couple more minutes (you can check the surface temp on rad tank now). Then shut down engine. Let it cool down and top up the overflow tank.

If a blown head gasket, you would either see white smoke out tailpipe or chocolate milk in oil pan.

For the e-fans you should be able to manually short the fans into operating. Also with above filling/temp test, fans should start and operate at their set temps.
 
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Black_Hammer

New Member
Jun 17, 2021
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Myrtle Beach, SC
Sep 12, 2021
#6
  • Sep 12, 2021
  • #6
Ok I’ll try as u say. I did consider a head gasket but exhaust is dry and no leaks on ground. I’l check around the heads too. It may just be a bad thermostat or the gauge itself.

thanks guys!!
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,216
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Massachusetts
Sep 13, 2021
#7
  • Sep 13, 2021
  • #7
Black_Hammer said:
Thanks and you are right I need to clarify. I see the reservoir is empty at times. If I top it off it ends up empty.
Click to expand...

This is kinda a big clue. Coolant shouldn't be leaving the system. The level should remain constant for quite some time. You losing the coolant somewhere, either an external leak, or a blown HG.

You should pressure test the cooling system by renting a pressure test kit. This will tell you if you have a leak in the system somewhere.
 
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