Overheating question, need opinions

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BullittAndy

New Member

Nov 9, 2003

139

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Dec 4, 2006

#1

• Dec 4, 2006

• #1

I have 91 Hatch 5 speed with a 306 with AFR 165's and numerous bolt ons. The former engine and auto tranny cooled very well with the stock radiator but the new combo gets too hot. (BTW, the gauge cluster is also replaced since engine swap so not same temp gauge): I have the "S" blade fan and shroud combo made for the Mustang (3300CFM?). I have several questions:

1. How many rows is the stock radiator? The one in the car looks like it was recently replaced but it is only 1" thick.
2. In what order should I upgrade components, radiator then water pump or vice versa?
3. What radiator? I don't want to spend $500, but am torn between the Ford racing rad, the universal Summit aluminum rad, the bolt in Summit rad or a 3 row from Advance, Autozone etc. I don't have to have a aluminum, I just need cooling.
Thanks Stangnet!!!

 

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Teknik

Founding Member

Dec 31, 2001

106

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16

Dec 4, 2006

#2

• Dec 4, 2006

• #2

The stock radiator should be a 2 core.
First things to check are:
1 : Make sure you have the fan in the right direction. Pulling air and not pushing.
I'm not saying your stupid, just we have all been in a rush and overlooked
something simple.
2 : get a real guage to see the actual temp. Autometer mechanical's are good.

If you do need more cooling, I know many people who went with
the autozone piece and it did the job just fine.

 

bullitstang1313

Member

Jan 21, 2003

713

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Indianapolis / Columbus, Indiana

Dec 4, 2006

#3

• Dec 4, 2006

• #3

If you have underdrive pullies, that could be part of the problem. You could also have an actual problem that is causing it to get "too hot." Is it actually overheating or just reading high on the temperature gauge? If you don't have any actual problems then the autozone radiator might work fine for you. I have one and it seems to work fine and it has a lifetime warranty too. If you have the stock waterpump still you might want to replace it, it just depends on if you really have any problems.

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

15 Year Member

Nov 29, 1999

31,179

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Dec 4, 2006

#4

• Dec 4, 2006

• #4

We need to know when it gets hot (while ldling, while at speed, both) and to what degree (literally).

Also give us an idea of where you live and/or what summertime temps are like (if you live in Phoenix, my recommendation/feeling is different than if you live in Detroit).

Good luck.

 

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BullittAndy

New Member

Nov 9, 2003

139

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0

Dec 4, 2006

#5

• Dec 4, 2006

• #5

HISSIN50 said:

We need to know when it gets hot (while ldling, while at speed, both) and to what degree (literally).

Also give us an idea of where you live and/or what summertime temps are like (if you live in Phoenix, my recommendation/feeling is different than if you live in Detroit).

Good luck.

Click to expand...

Gets hot around town (low speed, stop and go), goes to the "N" of "normal" two tics below "270."

It did it yesterday in 68 degree weather (Atlanta in December- I love it).

I do have pulleys and I'll check the fan, maybe they connected incorrectly when installing the engine.

Everyone's point about having an actual problem is well taken. It seems like it could be a inaccurate measurement, an actual mechanical problem, or not having enough cooling for the engine mods.

What has me concerned is that with the old engine (same fan, water pump, pulleys) the temp never got above the "A' in "normal."

Thanks for the replies and keep 'em coming.

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

15 Year Member

Nov 29, 1999

31,179

34

129

Dec 4, 2006

#6

• Dec 4, 2006

• #6

BullittAndy said:

Gets hot around town (low speed, stop and go), goes to the "N" of "normal" two tics below "270."


What has me concerned is that with the old engine (same fan, water pump, pulleys) the temp never got above the "A' in "normal."

Thanks for the replies and keep 'em coming.

Click to expand...

Sounds good. If the cooling set-up is proven and your ambient temps are mild, I would not see the additional heat from the new mill as being at fault (i.e. if you could run in 100*F heat before, the same cooling components should keep the new motor the same operating temp if it's only 70*F outside now).

If the system is burped for sure and that the gauge is accurate.......... I like your double-checking the fan polarity and simply making sure it's coming on at the right time (and staying on). If you happen to have a large box-fan, you can let the car idle in the driveway. As temps creep up and the E-fan in the car doesnt cut it, turn the box fan on (with it sitting in front of your car) and see if it cools the engine down. If so, that'd sure make me look real hard at the fan in the car.

Random thoughts.
Good luck.

 

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GTOreturns

Well-Known Member

Oct 1, 2003

51

17

59

West Coast Best Coast

Dec 4, 2006

#7

• Dec 4, 2006

• #7

What mid pipe are you using?cats?

 

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MyLittlePony90

New Member

Dec 5, 2006

6

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0

Calgary, Alberta

Dec 6, 2006

#8

• Dec 6, 2006

• #8

After you check the Fan, if it is good see what thermastat was put in the car, or even if you have a faulty thermastat. This can cause a bid difference in the temp. Also a good product I would put in while you are trying to find out what is wrong is water weters, it helps theh cooling capabilities of your rad.
Good luck