Overheating to 230*!!!

[HISSIN50]

I've been looking for one for quite some time but all the shop I work at carries is Stant as well as do most of the auto stores around here............

yep, gotta hit a speed shop or summit, jegs, etc. i think a CSK around here has a speed section, and they might carry it....i just go down to the speed shop - it is like 9.95. im not a fan of the brand you mention (that is all that is available at the parts stores around here too).
can you get a hook up from your work, when special ordering from vendors? that might work if so.
good luck bud.

 

[92GreenGT]

I put a new cap on mine today. Thats the only thing I changed. The stock temp gauge rose very slowly to the middle. Id say around the M in NORMAL. Does this sound about right for the 195 T-Stat. Would have bought a new 180 Tstat, but I forgot, going to flush the radiator and put a 180Tstat in. See what happens then.

Dave

 

[HISSIN50]

I put a new cap on mine today. Thats the only thing I changed. The stock temp gauge rose very slowly to the middle. Id say around the M in NORMAL. Does this sound about right for the 195 T-Stat. Would have bought a new 180 Tstat, but I forgot, going to flush the radiator and put a 180Tstat in. See what happens then.

Dave

Dave, the stocker is horribly inaccurate, in my experience. my stocker would stay at the half way mark (~200*) from 190 to 220. that is why it sucks so much. i dont think you would be able to discern a difference in the stat swap with that thing.
just my two cents worth. good luck.

 

[92GreenGT]

I figured that pretty much, becuase a stock oil pressure gauge doesnt even move when you put more throttle to it. Worthless POS. But my problem is, where can I mount another gauge at? I just put the dual pod on the pillar, and I dont want to use one of my vents. Anymore ideas? What about below the stereo, that open space? With that work with an electrical gauge? I dont see why it wouldnt, hmmmm.

Dave

 

[HISSIN50]

I figured that pretty much, becuase a stock oil pressure gauge doesnt even move when you put more throttle to it. Worthless POS. But my problem is, where can I mount another gauge at? I just put the dual pod on the pillar, and I dont want to use one of my vents. Anymore ideas? What about below the stereo, that open space? With that work with an electrical gauge? I dont see why it wouldnt, hmmmm.

Dave

yeah, you can do the stereo (custom fab or someone on Ebay was selling radio plates with holes cut in them awhile back), or a 3 gauge pillar. i see no reason at all that you could not do it below the radio, even with a mechanical gauge (my favorite).

good luck.

 

[92GreenGT]

yeah, you can do the stereo (custom fab or someone on Ebay was selling radio plates with holes cut in them awhile back), or a 3 gauge pillar. i see no reason at all that you could not do it below the radio, even with a mechanical gauge (my favorite).

good luck.

Oh yeah, about the mechanical gauge. Do I have to run water inside the car or what? I keep thinking about mechanical fuel pressure gauges inside the car, I bought a electrical oil gauge just for the hell of it, works great though. Thanks man

Dave

 

[HISSIN50]

Oh yeah, about the mechanical gauge. Do I have to run water inside the car or what? I keep thinking about mechanical fuel pressure gauges inside the car, I bought a electrical oil gauge just for the hell of it, works great though. Thanks man

Dave

no water in the car - a mechanical gauge uses capillary tubing. it is just a flexible line about the size of 8 or 10 gauge wire (not big). i prefer them. basically the same difficulty to plumb one of those vs electric except that you need a bigger hole in the firewall to get the tube and its big bulbous sender through the firewall.

dont do fuel pressure in the car unless you use an isolator! i would mount mine on the cowl like Mike has (Mustang5L5). i dig that.

electric oil gauge is fine if worries about having the hard line come loose or leaking is an issue. they are pretty accurate these days (except for some autometers, generally electric gauges have like a 120* sweep, vs 270 or so for mechanical (so mech gauges show more precision since the needle width does not cover like 10* worth of numbers.

my two cents worth.

 

[92GreenGT]

no water in the car - a mechanical gauge uses capillary tubing. it is just a flexible line about the size of 8 or 10 gauge wire (not big). i prefer them. basically the same difficulty to plumb one of those vs electric except that you need a bigger hole in the firewall to get the tube and its big bulbous sender through the firewall.

dont do fuel pressure in the car unless you use an isolator! i would mount mine on the cowl like Mike has (Mustang5L5). i dig that.

electric oil gauge is fine if worries about having the hard line come loose or leaking is an issue. they are pretty accurate these days (except for some autometers, generally electric gauges have like a 120* sweep, vs 270 or so for mechanical (so mech gauges show more precision since the needle width does not cover like 10* worth of numbers.

my two cents worth.

Yeah, I know about the fuel pressure gauges inside the car. Thats why I said I dont like mechanical gauges becuase I always think of what happens if something happened to a fuel pressure mechanical inside the car.

The Oil Pressure gauge seems to work pretty good.

The electric water temp is cheaper than the mechanical water temp. So I think im going to go with it, how much more accurate will be compared to stock? Thanks man

Dave

 

[HISSIN50]

Yeah, I know about the fuel pressure gauges inside the car. Thats why I said I dont like mechanical gauges becuase I always think of what happens if something happened to a fuel pressure mechanical inside the car.

The Oil Pressure gauge seems to work pretty good.

The electric water temp is cheaper than the mechanical water temp. So I think im going to go with it, how much more accurate will be compared to stock? Thanks man

Dave

ok, sorry about the lecture on the FP gauge - some have not known and done it w/o an isolator. results are not good.

it depends upon brand how accurate it reportedly will be, but i would bet that any gauge would be better than the stocker.

an electric should be fine. we use the gauges as reference, not as what the absolute temp of the coolant is (it obviously varies in different parts of the motor and cooling system). so, as said, it is a relative reference. and about any gauge, be it mechanical or electric, should be fine. you will enjoy knowing what temp you are really running (twofold - a gauge that is accurate, and that has real numbers, so no more interpolating).

i would not put the new gauge sender in the rear of the intake (stock location is what i used for the new gauge. i relocated the lame stock sender to the rear of the intake).

good luck.

 

[92GreenGT]

ok, sorry about the lecture on the FP gauge - some have not known and done it w/o an isolator. results are not good.

it depends upon brand how accurate it reportedly will be, but i would bet that any gauge would be better than the stocker.

an electric should be fine. we use the gauges as reference, not as what the absolute temp of the coolant is (it obviously varies in different parts of the motor and cooling system). so, as said, it is a relative reference. and about any gauge, be it mechanical or electric, should be fine. you will enjoy knowing what temp you are really running (twofold - a gauge that is accurate, and that has real numbers, so no more interpolating).

i would not put the new gauge sender in the rear of the intake (stock location is what i used for the new gauge. i relocated the lame stock sender to the rear of the intake).

good luck.

Thanks man.

Dave