overheating

First thing I would do is get a real gauge on there. I live in the desert and it is a must, IMHO.

For me, with temps over ~90*F (we have been at 110* of late), there is an appreciable increase in operating temps. I am in an internal debate on how much to upgrade the radiator.

I would note that in high heat, there is a lot more heat to reject and the temp delta between the ambient temps (or temp of air coming off of hot asphalt and into the coil) and the t-stat is less than it would be in the winter.

I would get a real gauge so you can accurately diagnose the system further.

quick check is to ensure the stat is opening all the way and that the fan is coming on (you did not provide enough specifics to suggest even this, or more).

good luck.
 
mustangsammym said:
here in texas the temps are in the 90's
when i run my stang without ac the guage stays between the O and the R
when i turn the ac on the car runs pretty much to the H

what is going on

95 gt aode

Mine is doing the same thing when i turn on the ac i dont know what the hell is going on ether a lot of people have same problem mabe some no's what's going on.
 
when the a/c is on, the condensor is tossing hot air right into the radiator, which lowers the effectiveness of the radiator.
 
HoofnIt makes a very good point. A manual fan switch is a must, IMHO for folks in hot climates.
:nice:
 
HoofnIt said:
My car actually runs cooler with the AC on because this will automatically kick on the high-speed fan regardless of coolant temp.



Same here, I have a three core rad., linc.fan, and a dcc control switch, in 100 plus heat it wont budge over 1/4 and with a/c on half of that in bumper to bumper, good luck!
 
HoofnIt said:
My car actually runs cooler with the AC on because this will automatically kick on the high-speed fan regardless of coolant temp.

Stupid qustion; do all 95's have two speed fans?

I also have this same problem, but I don't ever remember hearing a second fan gear.
 
Rjovi said:
Stupid qustion; do all 95's have two speed fans?

I also have this same problem, but I don't ever remember hearing a second fan gear.
It should. one has to hit 226*F to make high speed come on naturally.
 
i agree with the getting a real temp gauge
but also i would look into an aftermarket Radiator, maybe a Fluidyne or something like that....i am from ohio but reguardless my car runs between the Cold line and the N in normal all the time. (i have a Fluidyne)
 
If interested in radiators, check out my thread - the guys have come through with a ton of good info (and it is geared around considerations for my AODE). :)
 
Im having the same problem. However, when i bought the car i was told that there was a small leak somewhere in the AC system. I have yet to get it fixed and i think it's the main hose that runs around the right side and behind the maniflold. (cause it's always soaked w/some sort of lube or fluid)
Now, I was told by an AC guy that the reason it gets hotter when the AC is on is due to the leak the compressor is working that much harder which makes the car run warmer. Hope this helps. Im going to an AC place to have my system tested ASAP.
 
When you look at your temp gauge make sure you look at the voltage gauge too. Whith the a/c running and the blower from the a/c system on it loads the voltage system. If your voltage gauge starts to drop your temp gauge will start to go up. Say your voltage is at 14.v your temp gauge will say O now your voltage goes down too 13.v then your gauge will say M. So the best way to check your temps is an after market gauge. I went and got the cheap-o one for $10 and it reads just fine.
 
harley02 said:
Im having the same problem. However, when i bought the car i was told that there was a small leak somewhere in the AC system. I have yet to get it fixed and i think it's the main hose that runs around the right side and behind the maniflold. (cause it's always soaked w/some sort of lube or fluid)
Now, I was told by an AC guy that the reason it gets hotter when the AC is on is due to the leak the compressor is working that much harder which makes the car run warmer. Hope this helps. Im going to an AC place to have my system tested ASAP.

The compressor wont run as hot with less charge in there. With less charge in there it will only beable to load so much and wont exchange as much heat.


When I swap My engine i'm going to replace the condensor. They are $100 and after 10+ years they have got to not as good as they were new. I dont remember who but someone had cooling problems and after he changed his condensor his car ran much cooler.