overheating

you could have a cracked block or

you may not have enough coolent in your system, you may have a cracked block or you cpu may not be telling your thermastat to open up resulting in what apears to be overheating. you also could have blown a head gasket. if you fill your system up with water, just take of the radiator cap let the car run and stick the garden hose in their. AS soon as the thermastat opens see if water is coming out your exhaust if so blown head gasket.

Maybe the Coolant Temp Sensor.

Gonna' have to give way more info.

Overheating means you are boiling over. Running hot is different. What reading (on an aftermarket gauge hopefully) are you seeing and when. What temp rating is the t-stat?
Does it run hot on the highway, in town, etc? And if it gets hot for one, does it cool down for the other.

With more info, the smart folks here can steer you in the right direction.

Oh yeah, what you do mean that there are blocks in the radiator? Did you have the radiator flow tested (if by blocks, you mean obstructions)?

Good luck.

check to make sure you have the air dam under the car, also check the radiator cap for correct pressure... I had the exact problem you have although I don't have a intake/heads/headers.. I have got mine solved and all I need is the air dam now since mine is missing.

my main problems were, radiator cap not holding more than 5lbs of pressure, fans were intermittent on turning on w/out a/c (fixed that to where they run all the time on high) i flushed the radiator, put a new thermostat on it. ive solved the problem but im still getting an air dam cause in town driving still puts it up on the M in normal on some days

95blackstanggt said:

runs hot in town not on the highway not a cracked block it's a 190 stat temp on highway is 190 to 205 in town is when it starts but it boils out the overfill it started after i changed the intake and it cools of quick once i stat movin good i had the radator flow tested

Click to expand...

Runs hot in town: first off, boiling in the overflow can be a bad cap. I have gotten bad ones right out of the box. Worth mentioning. (The effective boiling point is raised by ~50*F by having 16 PSI in the system, as opposed to none. Each PSI is worth about a 3*F increase in the boiling point). And that 50 PSI is right in the sweet spot (water boils at atmospheric pressure at 212*, so raising the boiling point by 50* is big!).

So the radiator tested out alright? It should have if the car runs cool on the highway.

I would be looking at ancillary air flow items (your FAN). Do you know if the fan is coming on? Low speed comes on at ~208*F. It will stay on till the car is down near 200*F. High speed does not come on till ~228*F.

While doing a diagnostic test (aka retrieving check engine codes), the puter will cycle each fan speed. Make sure it does that.

Otherwise, Pin 14 on the CCRM (the black box next to the overflow bottle) should show 12 volts when the low speed should be on. Pin 17 should show ground if you are hot enough for high speed to be engaged.

CCRM's are known to fail, as are the fan motors. The fan connector is prone to failure and was a recall item - it turns a nice shade of charcoal if overheated. Take a look at your connector first to make sure it has continuity.

Additionally, the ECT is responsible for telling the computer when to turn the fan on. If the ECT is out of calibration, it wont tell the fan to turn on when it should. If the sensor is completely toast, it should spit a code.

That is all where I would start. Be very careful when working around the engine, esp one which is turned on - fan blades, the accessory belt, hot parts, wires, etc can all take a bite of you (I had to say it).

Good luck.

Reagan, swing by the shop tuesday while I'm working and I'll hook up my code scanner to your stang and we'll see if your ECU is spewing any codes. That should give a good starting point. FWIW, Hissin mentioned everything I would check too.