P.A performance 3g wiring kit worth it?

jmd2914

Founding Member
Sep 6, 2002
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Napa, California
My alternator finally died so im upgrading to a 3g. i already have the alt im just wondering if i should order the kit from p.a. or just make my own kit. this is pretty much the first thing ive evern done with wiring so im really new to the entire concept. so any opinoins would be helpful ( i did a search and found some useful stuff, just still alittle sketch on doing my own wiring) thanks in advance.

Joel
 
No way. The only thing you really needs is 7-8 ft of 4 gauge power wire and the stock plug that gets relocated. Run you $10 at a supply store. From most of the posts I read, it seems you dont want to reconnect the old power lines anyway.
 
Normally I would not recommend this as a first time wiring project, but there is literally a picture of every single aspect of the retrofit on the internet. As long as the connections are sound and you ask if you have any doubts about anything (we love to beat 3G threads to a pulp here on a daily basis anyhow) it should be ok.

Now if you have a buddy who knows anything about wiring (mainly to have wiring supplies and tools on hand), it should be that much easier.

Then again, the PA kit is reportedly really nice and has full instructions and is easy to add in (see if a PA kit user chimes in here).



Good luck Joel.
 
Some more fuel for the fire...

See WWW.partsexpress.com for the fuse & fuse holder.
Fuse @ $3.90 each (need one) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=071-952

Fuseholder @ $5.80 each (need one) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=263-630

4 gauge black wire @ $1.25 a foot (use string to lay out routing & determine length) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=100-196

4 gauge red wire @ $1.25 a foot (use string to lay out routing & determine length) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=100-194

4 gauge ring crimp terminals (package of 5) $3.25. http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=095-584

3/4 “ Black heat shrink tubing, 4ft length, $3.39
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...number=082-058

3/4 “ Red heat shrink tubing, 4ft length, $3.39
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...number=082-064

Pre-fab 4 gauge cables with lugs already on the ends are available in most auto parts stores. Look for the starter switch to starter cables.
 
Even if you do go with the PA kit, don't forget about adding an additional ground between the engine and chasis.

The wiring itself isn't hard... in fact all you really do is run the new wire around the air cleaner box, infront of the radiator and then down under the battery box to the starter solenoid.

You will need a good pair of crimpers if you get the wiring on your own. And don't forget to stop at the local stereo shop to pick up a ANL style fuse holder / fuse.

When I did mine I used wire from the stereo shops. It was about as much as the PA kit. I don't know if any of this helps you, but good luck...
 
My friend was debating with me about the purpose of a fuse between the alternator and the starter post. He is extremely knowledgeable about cars and simply couldn't understand what it was needed for. Anyone got any answers for me?
 
How do you spell F I R E ? While electricity itself does not burn, it can create heat that makes other things burn.

Without a fuse, if the alternator develops in internal short to ground, all current the battery will put out will feed that fire. That could be up to 800 amps or more, depending on the battery. It would not stop until either the battery was exhausted or the fire melted the offending short circuit.
 
I'd say it's worth buying the PA Performance wiring kit. You could probably find al the parts to make it yourself for less than the cost of the kit, but if you factor in the time to chase down all the parts, the cost of shipping the parts you may not find locally, and the time to assemble them all, the kit is not a bad deal. Plus you'll get a good set of instructions to help your installation.
 
jmd2914 said:
so most parts stores carry the prefabbed 4ga wire with the luts already on it? or did i read that wrong?
You are right. The starter solenoid to starter cable found on our Mustangs is typical of the 4 gauge cables that are stocked by auto parts stores. They can be used for the alternator to fuse & fuse to battery wiring.
 
jmd2914 said:
so i need two of them? one for the alt to fuse and one for the fuse to battery right?
I would use a piece of string or some 18 AWG or speaker wire to lay out the path you want to take with your cables. Decide where you want the fuse and make a mark with tape at that location. Then remove the wire and measure the length of the sections. Now you know what length of prefabbed cables to get.

Good luck.
 
the PA power wire is nice, but it's nothing you can't make. it boils down to if you feel like messing with it or not. i decided not to mess with it as mine died before i was ready for the project so i just bought it to avoid hassles, but it looks fairly simple.

PA does include instructions but the damn instructions say to re=connect the black and oranges to the alt in addition to the new 4 ga wire, which i think by now has been proven to be a not so good idea..........other than that.......it worked just fine.

it is basically just the correct length of 2, 4ga wires with lugs(eyelets) on the ends, the fuse, fuse holder, and that black wiring tubing/conduit/wiring loom stuff.
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You reuse 1 of the factory plugs. The other one can be taped out of the way of cut off and taped off. So it's like this:

1) Square plug with black / orange wires is not resued
2) The oval plug from the 2G will plug right into the 3G
3) Tap into the stator wire [white / black] and plug that into your 3G

Then run the power wire... it's litterally that simple. Did you see my write up on it? It has a few pictures of what I just described
 
Don't worry about the questions... it's better to ask here before doing something that could lead to an underhood fire.

Do not by any means reuse the stock power wire. It's only 10 gauge and could overheat leading to some bad things for your car. That is why PA sells the new power wire, it's 4 gauge so it can handle the additional amperage of the 130amp alternator compared to 65 or 75 amps from the stocker.

Let me find my thread... it has pictures and those help a lot. Click here