P.I. Swap this weekend

SFC.Kill · Apr 8, 2009

Ok think I got everything covered. I bought all the parts brand new which include heads,intake,cylinder head changing kit,all gaskets and o-rings,water pump, harmonic balancer,timing chains, fuel injector o-rings, coolant tube and nipple,3/8-18 npt tap,9/16 drill bit, 180 thermostat, serpentine belt' 3/8 drive cordless impact, Torque wrench, A set of rachet wrenchs,3 gallons of 50/50 anti-freeze,6 quarts of mobil1 and filter. I've read all the write ups on the p.i. swap think I'm ready to go. Anybody have any other suggestions or tips? I just bought brand new plugs for my 98, I was going to swap them over to the P.I. heads will this work?, they are autolite platinums. I was looking underneath at the exhaust manifold to h-pipe, driver side is gonna be easy but the passenger side looks like it would be easier if I pulled the o2 sensor.Do I need to pull the starter also? I was going to remove the heads with the exhaust manifold still attached.I just had my tranny rebuilt with a new clutch install so the exhaust studs are nice and clean. I have a 4 day easter weekend so there will be no rush. What size tubing do I need for the coolant tube to nipple? Thanks guys, sorry for another P.I. swap thread...lol

squeak93 · Apr 9, 2009

Sounds like you have everything covered quite well! Take your time on the cams though, they are the part that most seem to mess up on. Very easy to do. Be sure to put the crank sensor pu wheel back in. .

SFC.Kill · Apr 9, 2009

I planned this just in time, My intake just cracked last nite going to work. Can anybody answer the few questions I posted in my first thread? Thanks for reply Squeak93.......I bought my Mustang GT brand new back in 98. I can still remember driving it out the showroom doors. I haven't had no problem with her (until last nite). 110,000 miles still running strong. Oil change every 3000 miles.

squeak93 · Apr 9, 2009

Coolant tubing is either 5/8 or 3/4 depending on what side use (i'm assuming ur refering to the heater core returns?) If not a little clarity on ur question would be nice.

fasthippo · Apr 9, 2009

an extension with a u-joint on it (i know theres a name for it but i forget) was veery helpful for me in getting the passenger side header off the h-pipe. and alot of people dont have problems with it, but when i was putting my driver side head on (i was installing the heads with the headers on) with my equal length shorties, the dipstick was seemingly impossible to get in. i ended up just getting a lokar and it worked perfect... but like i said, it may have been just 'cause of the headers.

good luck man!

SFC.Kill · Apr 9, 2009

I was going to replace all the hoses Squeak. The hose from the back side of the waterpump nipple was what I was talking about though.

Winters98GT · Apr 9, 2009

are you adding a set of headers? I've done a few PI swaps, and wanted to shoot myself everytime I did it and did not add LT.

Either way, you are going to have a new car. Are you going with a set of pulleys and tune afterward? Neither are necessary, but you will gain an extra 10-15hp out of a tune and pulleys and really maximize the PI swap with both.

SFC.Kill · Apr 10, 2009

I want the ceramic shorty headers but they are expensive, had to pay all the household bills so I'm gonna have to put the oem exhaust manifolds back on for now. and yes going to get pulleys. Which ones do you recommend? I have 4.10's, CAI, and 75 mm throttle body, flowmaster cat back exhaust. I got lot of the engine accesories off tonite for only 2 hours work. ready today for throttle body and plenum and fuel rail and few more vacuum hose's. oh and the h-pipe needs to be drop. I bought a 150lb cordless impact driver so the nuts should be no problem. I put the Stang up on ramps so I have to stand on 1 of my tool boxes to work on it...lol.

SFC.Kill · Apr 10, 2009

I see the the coolant tube slides right on the nipple.I thought there was a piece of hosing that connected them. Got the intake off, I can see the crack right at the thermostat housing. All wires and vacuum hoses are disconnected. I have to drop the power steering pump, pull harmonic balancer, pull timing cover then remove the heads. Right now I have the engine at TDC. Hardest part so far was disconnecting the exhaust.

GT Tommy · Apr 11, 2009

GT Mustang 4.6 Coolant Leaks!

SFC.Kill said:
I see the the coolant tube slides right on the nipple.I thought there was a piece of hosing that connected them. Got the intake off, I can see the crack right at the thermostat housing. All wires and vacuum hoses are disconnected. I have to drop the power steering pump, pull harmonic balancer, pull timing cover then remove the heads. Right now I have the engine at TDC. Hardest part so far was disconnecting the exhaust.

You may want to check out my two threads in the post below. I'm listed as GT Tommy. When the link opens, just scroll down to the two threads under GT Tommy. Hope this helps. Good luck, Tommy.

http://forums.stangnet.com/771907-coolant-leaking-between-aluminum-crossover-intake.html

SFC.Kill · Apr 11, 2009

I'm surprised the plastic intake lasted as long as it did, I do run the car hard at times. Can't wait to get this P.I.Swap done.It rained here today so I didn't get to work on the Stang so I drilled and tapped the new intake, put new o-rings on injectors and just cleaned up some parts that are going back on. Stuff I can do under my porch. Will post again tomorrow to keep whoever updated.

SFC.Kill · Apr 12, 2009

I got the heads off today, took the exhaust manifolds off the heads. Had to disconnect the power steering line from the pump to get to the last bolt. It's going to be in the 60's tomorrow so I want to get alot back on if everything goes right. Nothing really hard to do like I said the hardest thing so far was the exhaust.

SFC.Kill · Apr 13, 2009

I got the P.I. heads on and torqued. Driver side exhaust hooked back up. The passenger side they broke the flange bolt apparently when I got my new clutch installed and tranny rebuilt. It's the side closes to the block so I have to figure out a way to drop the bolt in the flange and get the nut on. I had to order cam sprocket bolts from the ford dealer as my bolts from my 98 would not fit the 03 cam.

squeak93 · Apr 14, 2009

Sounds like its coming along nicely.

SFC.Kill · Apr 14, 2009

It is, thanks Squeak. Rained here again today so I got nothing done. Well I did pick up the correct cam sprocket bolts at the ford dealer, $9 bucks for both I paid $25 each at ARP so there's $50 coming back.

5spd GT · Apr 14, 2009

If you need any further help, check the link in my signature. I put it together just after my first PI Headswap.

SFC.Kill · Apr 14, 2009

I went off your PI headswap write-up 5spd. So far so good, I missed that part# for the camshaft sprocket bolts somehow. That ARP part# for the camshaft sprocket bolts messed me up though I thought they would fit the pi heads.

SFC.Kill · Apr 15, 2009

Raining here again so I cleaned up valve covers. Removed spark plugs from the 98 heads, there brand new so I was going to use them with the PI Heads. Cleaned up all the bolts with wire brush. matched up new harmonic balancer and water pump so I could throw the old ones out. Suppose to be sunny and 65 tomorrow. oh yeah almost forgot I had to disconnect the power steering line from the pump to get to that last bolt on the pump so all my power steering fliud drained out Is there a proper way to add fluid and bleed the system? I heard you need to jack up the front end with the wheels off the ground slowly add fluid, turn the steering wheel with each add of fluid.

squeak93 · Apr 15, 2009

The power steering system should self bleed itself. Go ahead and do it how u described to be safe.

bhuff30 · Apr 15, 2009

The method for bleeding the P/S that seems to stick out in my mind is turn the wheel to lock on one side, then to the other side. After that, the system should be bleed and good to go.

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