P specific headers and voltage concerns

BK_CAULEY

it's built for speed not longevity, woman

Dec 26, 2006

0

10

49

Thomasville, ga

Oct 4, 2007

#1

• Oct 4, 2007

• #1

ok guys i have a few questions. Anyone out there run P specific headers? i know there are a few just dont feel like reading sigs for an hour. not mac longtubes real P headers? what brand and size are they and how is fitment?

my next question is about my new alternator. its a DB electrical 200 amp unit and when my E-fan is on A/C is on and headlights are on the voltage drops down to about 1/4 of the gauge but my lights stay bright. should i have any concern?

 

R

RS200

Member

Sep 23, 2004

95

0

16

Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada

Oct 4, 2007

#2

• Oct 4, 2007

• #2

The stock gauges are very inaccurate. I really wouldn't trust them..

 

RYC CUKR

Founding Member

May 19, 2002

1,437

1

38

Orlando

Oct 4, 2007

#3

• Oct 4, 2007

• #3

I have FRPP ceramic P specific headers. They fit like a champ. No issues what so ever. I believe that all of the FRPP headers are now p specific, so if you buy a new set they should work just fine. I got mine off ebay for about $175 shipped brand new. So if you have time there are deals to be had on them.

 

BK_CAULEY

it's built for speed not longevity, woman

Dec 26, 2006

0

10

49

Thomasville, ga

Oct 5, 2007

#4

• Oct 5, 2007

• #4

thanks. i just found a set that looks promising. i was kinda leaning towards them anyways?

does anyone think putting a stock fan and shroud back on my car will help any? or what about the 4.6 fans? anyone know what kind of current and amperage they draw as opposed to a lincoln fan? cause right now its taking all my 200amp 3g alt can do to run my lights, fan, and a/c.

 

RYC CUKR

Founding Member

May 19, 2002

1,437

1

38

Orlando

Oct 5, 2007

#5

• Oct 5, 2007

• #5

That is strange that all your electrical accessories are pulling on your 200a 3g that hard. I have a PA 3G, 130 amp I believe, on my 93 and it has no probs driving my taurus fan on high, running a bottle heater, and all the other stuff I have.

The stock fan and shroud will cool the car fine, provided the clutch is good, but you will lose some power to drag.

 

dragnazz5.0

My "0" key d0esn't w0rk, s0 I have t0 use the zer0

Nov 19, 2005

815

5

18

mooresville, nc

Oct 6, 2007

#6

• Oct 6, 2007

• #6

first off i would check your battery connections and check your main ground on the block on the drivers side of the timing cover. you could also try upgrading the power and ground wires on the battery to a larger gauge wire. ive also had success with low charging by running a secondary wire from the back of the intake to the negative battery post. you dont need to run a huge wire...i think i used a 12 gauge wire and it works great. if you know how to use a dvom you can check resistance from the engine block/intake to the negative battery post....should be less than 5 ohms

 

BK_CAULEY

it's built for speed not longevity, woman

Dec 26, 2006

0

10

49

Thomasville, ga

Oct 6, 2007

#7

• Oct 6, 2007

• #7

dragnazz5.0 said:

first off i would check your battery connections and check your main ground on the block on the drivers side of the timing cover. you could also try upgrading the power and ground wires on the battery to a larger gauge wire. ive also had success with low charging by running a secondary wire from the back of the intake to the negative battery post. you dont need to run a huge wire...i think i used a 12 gauge wire and it works great. if you know how to use a dvom you can check resistance from the engine block/intake to the negative battery post....should be less than 5 ohms

Click to expand...

wow to threads in a row of VERY helpfull advice. and i just replaced all my cables and such. i willl try the intake ground next. thank you.