PA Performance 200-Amp Alternator

[COILDUP]

Hey guys!! I just recently stumbled across a great deal on a PA Performance 200-amp alternator and I couldn't resist picking it up for my 93 Cobra. Anybody else out there done this mod? I really don't need this much power output right now, but she should be a good investment for future mods. I won't have any probs running this on an otherwise stock car with Optima red battery, will I? BTW, I did get the upgraded power wire as well.

Thanks much,
Chris

 

[DeVus1]

You shouldnt have any problems running this alternator. Now is a good time to install a nice stereo system.

 

[HISSIN50]

You'll have problems. The good news is that I will take it off your hands. J/K man.

The power cable upgrade is a must, and I would add an additional motor ground.

Good luck and enjoy!

 

[Prime Lord]

I did the PA Performance alt on my last GT. Awesome! Gotta do the power cable though. Definately worth the money and will buy another one when I get this thing back together this summer

 

[COILDUP]

Awesome!! Now I really can't wait to get her on there. I already have the upgraded power cable run. I just need to grind down the bracket a bit and get the alternator in there. My stereo is not too outrageous - just a 5-channel amp and single 10-inch sub - but this upgrade will set the stage for upgrading my ignition system, electric fan, .....

Thanks for the comments guys!!!

:SNSign:

 

[COILDUP]

Hey guys, does anyone know what size bolt I will need for the top mount on the 94-95 alternator? Unlike the 87-93 one, it is not threaded so I will need a bit longer bolt. Just wondering what you guys who have already done this swap have used.

Thanks a bunch!!

 

[8950HO]

Hey guys, does anyone know what size bolt I will need for the top mount on the 94-95 alternator? Unlike the 87-93 one, it is not threaded so I will need a bit longer bolt. Just wondering what you guys who have already done this swap have used.

Thanks a bunch!!

I used a 2" long,3/8" bolt with a washer at the front and a washer and lock washer at the back.

 

[Georgie]

i have the same kit from PA. My batterie is always fully charged even with the fan on high all windows going down while the top is goiing down and my electrif fan running and my stereo blasting!!! dont forget to upgrade ur ground wire (behind intake between firewall)

 

[GreatWhite]

so you need more than one extra ground? I ran a 4gauge ground from the original battery ground on the block to the computer ground on the fender well since I relocated the battery to the rear... do i need another one?

 

[COILDUP]

Hey, thanks for all the great responses guys!! When you guys upgraded your ground wire, did you just add an add'l 4 ga. from the block to the firewall or did you completely remove and replace the existing stock ground?

Thanks again!!

 

[GreatWhite]

well the stock block to computer ground works with negative battery cable, but it's small... the bigger wire allows for more energy to escape to the chassis. I think that's how it works, I could be wrong tho...

I ran the 4gauge because of my battery relocation

 

[HISSIN50]

The pathway is ground to positive, so having an equal or greater grounding path for the current flow is important. You cant have too much grounding.

An additional 4 AWG ground wire should be sufficient.

 

[Georgie]

what a great alternator!

 

[COILDUP]

Alright guys, I'm finally going to try to finish up my alternator upgrade today. I've got the new 200 amper, upgraded 4 ga. power cable and new gatorback belt already in there. I'm going to upgrade the ground wire today and fire her up. Will this be sufficient for my ground cable upgrade? If so, I can run right down the street to Napa and pick one up.

http://napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=BEL&PartNumber=711484&Description=Battery+Cable+Grounding+Strap+H%2fD+Truck

Thanks again for all of your help and insight!!

 

[jrichker]

A single 4 gauge ground will be OK.
Any place on the engine except the timing case bolts are good on the engine side. I try to use the same ground as the starter ground. The chassis side works best if you use the common gound point near the battery. It is being pointed to in the picture.

The chassis ground and battery pigtail ground go to the bolt being
pointed at in the following photo.

Picture courtesy timewarped1972

 

[COILDUP]

Hey, thanks for the info, man. It really helps a lot. I was just going to add another ground strap from the block behind the intake to the driver's side firewall, but that bolt is a real pain to get to. On my car, it looks like the starter grounds to the negative side of the starter solenoid. Can I just run a ground from that side of the solenoid to the pigtail or would it be better to ground directly to the block? Where exactly on the block are you grounding to on your car?

Thanks again for all of your help!! It is greatly appreciated!!

 

[dec322]

Hey, thanks for the info, man. It really helps a lot. I was just going to add another ground strap from the block behind the intake to the driver's side firewall, but that bolt is a real pain to get to. On my car, it looks like the starter grounds to the negative side of the starter solenoid. Can I just run a ground from that side of the solenoid to the pigtail or would it be better to ground directly to the block? Where exactly on the block are you grounding to on your car?

Thanks again for all of your help!! It is greatly appreciated!!

I just did the 3g swap about a month ago and used this link to help on the ground. It worked like a charm and was easy to do....after I loosened up the bolt on the power steering pump. Check out the pics on the fifth post on page 3.....this is where I've linked you.

 

[COILDUP]

Hey, thanks for the tip, dec!! That's going to be a lot easier than the secondary ground I was trying to get to. Thanks again!! I'll let you know how it turns out!!

 

[COILDUP]

Alright, guys, I finally got the new 3G on there and everything bolted back up. I ran my upgraded fused 4 ga power wire from the alt output terminal to the positive side of the starter solenoid and added an add'l 2 ga ground from the battery pigtail ground location to the power steering pump bracket. I also fully charged my battery.

My issue is this...at idle, the battery gauge hovers around M and sometimes even lower. The moment I give it some gas or start to drive off, however, it will jump up and stay slightly above the R. Also, for some reason, whenever I get the revs above 2500 RPM, the gauge drops to the M and the low battery light comes on. Once the revs drop below 2500, the gauge jumps back up to the R. I was thinking maybe I am getting some belt slip, but this is the same belt that was on the car before and it is just as tight as it was.

Any ideas what could be causing this? Thanks for any help you can provide. It is greatly appreciated!!​

 

[glowstang93]

Did you wire the small black/white wire from the unused plug to the new 3g alternator. I believe without it wired the alternator won't know when it needs to output. I just tapped the black/white wire from the the old connector and ran it to the stator output on the alternator. Some use a spade connector here, but the correct connector can be bought from an alternator repair shop. Hope this helps.