Pain to start/ Runs funny like bad timing/ Dies. Any thoughts?

[ForceFed70]

If it was that low he would never get the car started in the first place.

I've personally seen different. If he's pushing the limit with his plug gap for example...

But your correct in that it would at least turn over slower than normal.

Now that I think about it... I just recently saw an episode of "american hotrod" where they installed a brand new on the market ignition system, but couldn't get the car to fire... turns out that 1 of the reasons was because the battery voltage was low...even tho the engine seemed to crank fine. Boyd almost missed his deadline!

 

[Platonic Solid]

I prefer to jump in the fire and learn by doing. I figure I will replace every single piece of this car before I die. I could have bought one of these cars in perfect shape and learned about the car by reading a book. I spent very little on the car so I could fix it over the next 50 years by hand and learn about it by repairing it. I changed my front suspension by hand last week without first reading a manual. When I hit a snag, I came to the forum or looked online and worked until the next road block.

If I had a book, I would have seen what a pain it was going to be and paid someone else to do it.

I prefer to get in over my head and find my way out.

More power to those here who are willing to regurgitate answers to questions like “Where are the points?”

I personally think your unwillingness to invest in a very useful tool is crapola

 

[DissFigured]

Well, I appreciate your opinion.
Wait, No I don't

 

[66stangbluework]

 

[jerry S]

Well, I appreciate your opinion.
Wait, No I don't

I wonder how many people are going to reply to your questions from now on after that.

 

[2nd Mustang]

If I had a book, I would have seen what a pain it was going to be and paid someone else to do it.

I prefer to get in over my head and find my way out.

The reprint of "TFM" is about $45.00 from many Mustang parts suppliers. Learning the hard way will be expensive as well as dangerous. "TFM" also includes pictures too.

 

[5.0ina66]

Since you are in fact learning (and the hard way) do yourself this one favor, verify everything first, do not get in the habit of simply replacing parts until you get the right one, that is a huge waste of time and money especially considering even new parts can often be defective and thus misleading you as to the real problem. Instead, spend a few bucks on a good multitester so you will have no doubts as to where the trouble lies.

:Word: I've never met a computer dweeb (such as myself) that refused to use the process of elmination and a little scientific method when fixing something. A good diagnostic proceedure goes a long way in getting stuff fixed, and costs less than a series of WAGs! I went in to working on cars with a good set of diagnostic skills, and knowing what everything was, where it was, and a very rough idea of what it did. That is what I would condsider the minimum for a beginning DIYer. I can't begin to say how much of a help the skills I got from fixing computer crap has been when it comes to cars. A DVM, manual, and a set of wrenches will carry you far!
JMO
--Kyle

 

[DissFigured]

believe it or not, I have a manual, but Aparently, I got the wrong one. The haynes mustang repair manual must be a piece of crap as it has answered none of my questions. I have learned more by taking stuff apart, taking pictures of it, and posting them on the forum and saying "what is this?"

 

[5.0ina66]

believe it or not, I have a manual, but Aparently, I got the wrong one. The haynes mustang repair manual must be a piece of crap as it has answered none of my questions. I have learned more by taking stuff apart, taking pictures of it, and posting them on the forum and saying "what is this?"

ahh..that would be the problem. Haynes manuals are friggin frackin worthless, especially when they cover more than say 4 years and 2 engines.crapola TFM is so detailed it's ludicrous. I'd get one; I know mine has helped, especailly TFM for my Mercury Villager van. D@mn nissan complicated crap!

 

[Pakrat]

More power to those here who are willing to regurgitate answers to questions like “Where are the points?”

I personally think your unwillingness to invest in a very useful tool is crapola

I'm starting to see your point as I feel I have somewhat wasted my breath and I also think I'm done with further advice, at least on the one asking the question, several others seem to agree though. When I first saw the "dumb it down" reply I rolled my eyes and thought "oh boy" then I remembered that I was certainly not born with the knowledge I have today, it's all due to those with patience, had he asked where the key goes I wouldn't of bothered. He has the willingness to learn which is what we all needed to start but if you are going to come online and attempt to learn the easy way then at least listen to what is being said.

Well, this is my plan of attack then:
I will pick up the pertronix as it sounds like the better solution.
I am also going to pick up a new wiring harness for the new alternator as the old one is nasty anyway
I suspect I will need a timing light to adjust the timing since I am jacking w/ the distributor.

This is not listening, this is speed reading thru it and running off half cocked. Let me give you one last shot at it and try again. I'll even shout the shopping list to you since you are so eager to spend your money!

THE FIRST THINGS YOU SHOULD BUY ARE:

A FORD SHOP MANUAL!
A GOOD MULTI TESTER

Yes a Pertronix is a good upgrade anyway, but you need to figure out what the problem is first and I already told you how you could double check the points for free. Besides I have to believe that you do not even know if you have a vacuum or mechanical advance distributor and so theres a 50% chance that you will not buy the right kit and will still not be running and have multiple problems now.

As for a timing light this is only helpful if you want to set it to the stock timing which is at best enemic. Personally I think the best tool is your ear, you should give your car as much timing as it likes and to do that you advance it until it pings and then back it off a few degrees.

OK, that said, what's the plan stan?

 

[2nd Mustang]

When I was a wee young one, I bugged my parents to get my drivers license until they gave in, BUT, my father gave me the shop manual for the family car and told me if I'm going to drive it, I have to learn to fix it. Little did he know the family car was going to the "Run what you brung" on Friday nights at the drag strip.

 

[Platonic Solid]

65 coupe

My ALTernator light was coming on(flashing), and the car was running really jerky when I accellerated. Then I got a new alternator and put it in.

Now the car barely starts and instantly runs like crap (shaking) and dies. I can't keep it running longer than a few seconds. It feels like the timing is way off and the alternator light is consistantly on.

Any thoughts?
Can the alternator cause any of this shaking?

Do the simple logical things first:

Clean all wiring contacts for the charging system and ground. Especially the ones to the voltage regulator. (I use folded wetsandpaper (dry) to clean contacts) If that doesn't solve the alternator light problem, then your voltage regulator is probably bad. The manual goes into detail on how to test the voltage regulator with a volt meter and tach.

The "runs like crap (shaking)" probably has nothing to do with the charging light being "on". Clean the points as previously mentioned. Replace the fuel filter if you haven't done that recently, and clean the carburator interior by holding the carburator choke plate open with a screwdriver and spraying carb cleaner into it while the engine is running. This is best done outdoors with a fire extinguisher handy in case of a carb. fire.

Also, as previously mentioned, inspect the interior distr. cap and rotor contacts. Clean/Replace as necessary.

While you have the fuel filter off, it's a good time to purge and inspect the fuel in your fuel line. Completely remove the coil to dist. wire. Attach a suitable length of fuel hose to the line to permit it to enter a suitable container (I use a small clear coke bottle). Note: engine should be cold when you do this. Turn the engine over 5 - 6 times and inspect the fuel for rust debris and strange clear globs that settle to the bottom (an indication of bad gas). Repeat until gas runs clean.