painting
- Thread starter blue87lx
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mustangjoe87
Member
cjman15
Banned
mustangjoe87
Member
mustangjoe87
Member
ok what your saying is that your friend sprayed it dry and had orange peel. the best way to correct this is to spray with the gun closer to the panel. you can also use a reducer for warmer temp than what you are spraying, this will leavew the paint wetter longer so the clear coat can "flow" out. most of topcoating is in technique.
mustangjoe87
Member
how long before you can apply clear to fresh base coat?
how long between coats of clear?
1.look at the paint companys recomendations.
2. if none wait til it is "flashed" (tacky)
how long between coats of clear?
1.look at the paint companys recomendations.
2. if none wait til it is "flashed" (tacky)
This is a great thread keep up the questions. I am about to atempt the samething. You know what would be great maybe a simple list of the basic things and steps you will need to beable to do it right. I got one for you I have a 4 inch cowel hood and i want to paint the cowel black and rest white. How would get it so there isnt a defining line between the black and the white? Someone said wet sanding but they were not sure. I would ask M. Jackson but you know. lol
thanks
thanks
There are a few guys in our 94/95 specific forum that do all there own paint work, and look awesome!!
If you search around in there every now and then you will see some good paint threads.
RC
If you search around in there every now and then you will see some good paint threads.
RC
PuterAmI
Member
mustangjoe87
Member
hondakiller44 said:
well, the easiest way is to keep ridges from tape from happening...
after the hood has been blocked, primed, wet sanded, and preped for paint. i would first appy the white base coat. after it was dry i would then tape and mask everything that you want to stay white. wipe down the area to be painted with a tack rag to remove dirt and dust. then apply your black basecoat. after it has dryed remove tape and masking, then tack rag the whole hood. you may now apply clearcoat. apply 3-4 coats, this will give you more to wet sand. after about a day to dry and harden wet sand any orange peel, dirt, runs, and your tape line smooth. after you have completed wet sanding you may now buff to a shine.
anymore Q's????
I've learned alot from this site. They also carry some good supplies, the guy running it, his name is Len, is really good at helping beginners out. Your best bet is find a car or some scrap panels to practice on. The hardest thing to learn is getting the clear to gone smooth, run free, with no dry spots. Then learning to water sand it and buff it is a whole new ball game. Practice, practice, practice.........and use the best paint and clear you can afford.
I've been messing with body work for 8 years, I like it more than turning wrenches.
http://www.autobodystore.com/cgi-bin/config.pl?index
I've been messing with body work for 8 years, I like it more than turning wrenches.
http://www.autobodystore.com/cgi-bin/config.pl?index
crazypete
All my crevices are greased.
Here's the scoop: the key to great looking paint is finishing and detailing!
I went through the whole process, working with isocyanides (insanely bad sh1t. Basically nerve gas) and urethane paints, 2 months of sanding welding and prep work. Read everything on the net about painting, practice panels, practiced with the gun and adjusting it, got everything ready and 1 minute after the first drop left the sprayer, the air hose flipped over and streaked the paint on a door, some crap fell into the hood paint, there were drips and sags and runs and fisheyes and bleed through everywhere (despite following directions, proper temp, humidity, using professional prepaint degreaser and tack cloth, proper priming and surface cut to 400 grit). End result: a drippy, streaked, bleedthrough mess that looks like someone spraypainted it in the backyard. Cost: probably at least $750-900 in materials and the compressor and other little stuff and untold amount of aggravation from family members and neighbors about smells and such.
Then I got out some spraypaint and did a single section with the worst bleed through. 500 degree ceramic header paint. I found this is the most durable stuff you can get that comes out of a can. The duplicolor nozzle makes a nice fan too so no drips. After drying, I wetsanded 1000,1500 then 2000 then got out the polisher and diamond cut, medium then polishing compound then glaze. GUESS WHAT?!?!? You cant tell the difference between the 2 sections. I felt like a moron. I could have just rattle canned the whole car in ceramic header paint for about $120 (25 cans) then done the same polish all over with far far far far less sags and drips than the urethane and not spent almost $1000, not gassed the neighbors and needed anything more than a charcoal mask and definatley no air compressor.
The point I am trying to make:
Do your own prep work then have someone else who knows what they are doing to spray it in a BOOTH for a couple hundred. That paint is nasty nasty stuff and it is not trivial at all to apply it properly even if you take all the precautions. I've been spraypainting for almost a decade....I know how to control paint to not sag or run or drip and I really f-ed this up. The end result could be an expensive runny drippy mess like mine and guess what?!? It's urethane drips and sags. Boy that stuff doesnt come off easy so it's not like you can sand it easily and try again.
Just some food for thought.
I went through the whole process, working with isocyanides (insanely bad sh1t. Basically nerve gas) and urethane paints, 2 months of sanding welding and prep work. Read everything on the net about painting, practice panels, practiced with the gun and adjusting it, got everything ready and 1 minute after the first drop left the sprayer, the air hose flipped over and streaked the paint on a door, some crap fell into the hood paint, there were drips and sags and runs and fisheyes and bleed through everywhere (despite following directions, proper temp, humidity, using professional prepaint degreaser and tack cloth, proper priming and surface cut to 400 grit). End result: a drippy, streaked, bleedthrough mess that looks like someone spraypainted it in the backyard. Cost: probably at least $750-900 in materials and the compressor and other little stuff and untold amount of aggravation from family members and neighbors about smells and such.
Then I got out some spraypaint and did a single section with the worst bleed through. 500 degree ceramic header paint. I found this is the most durable stuff you can get that comes out of a can. The duplicolor nozzle makes a nice fan too so no drips. After drying, I wetsanded 1000,1500 then 2000 then got out the polisher and diamond cut, medium then polishing compound then glaze. GUESS WHAT?!?!? You cant tell the difference between the 2 sections. I felt like a moron. I could have just rattle canned the whole car in ceramic header paint for about $120 (25 cans) then done the same polish all over with far far far far less sags and drips than the urethane and not spent almost $1000, not gassed the neighbors and needed anything more than a charcoal mask and definatley no air compressor.
The point I am trying to make:
Do your own prep work then have someone else who knows what they are doing to spray it in a BOOTH for a couple hundred. That paint is nasty nasty stuff and it is not trivial at all to apply it properly even if you take all the precautions. I've been spraypainting for almost a decade....I know how to control paint to not sag or run or drip and I really f-ed this up. The end result could be an expensive runny drippy mess like mine and guess what?!? It's urethane drips and sags. Boy that stuff doesnt come off easy so it's not like you can sand it easily and try again.
Just some food for thought.
bluevenom867
I will have images of molesting stuffed animals in
My words of wisdom when we were painting our car...
PAINTING OUT SIDE SUCKS!
My dad was trying to shoot the clear in a 20mph wind
,needless to say,it had some grit in in 
.
PAINTING OUT SIDE SUCKS!
My dad was trying to shoot the clear in a 20mph wind
,needless to say,it had some grit in in .
mustangjoe87
Member
crazypete said:
RIGHT, that is why you dont do painting.
J/Kbut seriously some is practice, some talent, and lots of research to find out what procedure and product to use. anyway SPRAY PAINT IS NOT THE ANSWER. if you arent prepared to spend the money dont do your first paint job and expect diamonds. practice on an old door or hood with cheap paint. spray one day, after it drys scuff, and do it again until you get it. most important ASK QUESTIONS
crazypete
All my crevices are greased.
That stuff is seriously bad.....just dont deal with it. Read up on the effects of those chemicals and you wont even want them in your house much less sprayed anywhere! Even ventilation and gasmask isnt enough since it gets in through your eyes too and affects your central nervous system! All this and you might end up with a messy paintjob. Cheap single stage urethane paint is $70 a gallon. Most of the above mentioned advice is for base/clear method. That means you get to paint your car 2 coats base, 3 coats clear. Thats painting your car 5 times, each step having the opportunity to make mistakes, drips and sags. Plus you're supposed to wetsand between clearcoats.
Most of the guys saying "just do it man" probably have professional experience and equiptment. To them, it seems easy. Trust me, it's not. It might be easy with a rattle can and a little respirator but when you are in a full bulky suit with airhose and airtight fogged up goggles, trying to manuver around your car with a semi-rigid airhose curling up around you and flipping over while crap and bugs falling into the paint as you are desperatley trying to time the coats so it's not too thick to sag but covers enough to hide the primer, you'll suddenly realize it's not quite as easy as it sounds. Painting inside.....unless you have serious serious ventilation, you'll gas yourself with possible permanent neurological results.
Just prep it and pay maaco to blast it with the nasty stuff. They do a half decent job with single stage urethane. My old 87 looked like a new car. Then buff and finish the heck out of it.
BTW......I have a test panel spraypainted then finished. It's like a mirror. You can achieve decent results for little money and saftey risk if you apply enough elbow grease in the detailing step.
Most of the guys saying "just do it man" probably have professional experience and equiptment. To them, it seems easy. Trust me, it's not. It might be easy with a rattle can and a little respirator but when you are in a full bulky suit with airhose and airtight fogged up goggles, trying to manuver around your car with a semi-rigid airhose curling up around you and flipping over while crap and bugs falling into the paint as you are desperatley trying to time the coats so it's not too thick to sag but covers enough to hide the primer, you'll suddenly realize it's not quite as easy as it sounds. Painting inside.....unless you have serious serious ventilation, you'll gas yourself with possible permanent neurological results.
Just prep it and pay maaco to blast it with the nasty stuff. They do a half decent job with single stage urethane. My old 87 looked like a new car. Then buff and finish the heck out of it.
BTW......I have a test panel spraypainted then finished. It's like a mirror. You can achieve decent results for little money and saftey risk if you apply enough elbow grease in the detailing step.
crazypete said:
The only way you'll end up with a messy paint job is by painting in a messy area, not prepping the surface right, not cleaning the surface and rushing the work. There's no reason to hurry through a paint job. None whatsoever. If you have the right temperature reducer in your base and clear, you can cruise through the base for 2-3 coats, clean the gun, tack the base off, mix the clear and be ready to go. You can let base set overnite and clear it the next day if you want.
As far as the safety issues, yea, the ISO's are very dangerous. You need a fresh air supply suit and a downdraft booth to be totally protected. Not to many DIY'ers gonna have that.........and there a lot of those out there. Painting one car this year? Buy a good respirator, disposable coveralls and a vent fan for the garage. You'll be fine. Wanna beat the bugs? Spray in the mornings. Dirty floor? Put a tarp down under the car; hose it off before you paint. Most importantly, drain your compressor evey nite to keep moisture out, and buy some good filters for the lines.
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