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Resolved Parking Brake Issues

  • Thread starter Thread starter WTW
  • Start date Start date Aug 13, 2023
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WTW

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Aug 13, 2023
#1
  • Aug 13, 2023
  • #1
When I bought my 93, the parking brake had no resistance on the handle when engaging. Got underneath and found the parking brake cable bracket was broken allowing one cable to move freely. The bracket in the driveshaft tunnel that connects the cable from the handle to the left and right rear drum cable.
Replaced that bracket and adjusted rear shoes but I have to pull the parking brake handle all the way up before it starts to engage brakes. And it barely bites.
There was no slack in the cables at the bracket so I assume there is no stretch in the cables.
I didn’t see any other adjustment points. Am I missing something?
 

AeroCoupe

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes
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#2
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If you have that much slack you either do not have the shoes in the rear brakes adjusted properly or the cables need to be replaced but my money is on the adjustment.
 
Last edited: Aug 13, 2023
W

WTW

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Aug 13, 2023
#3
  • Aug 13, 2023
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AeroCoupe said:
If you have that much SLA you either do not have the shoes in the rear brakes adjusted properly or the cables need to be replaced but my money is on the adjustment.
Click to expand...
Shoes are adjusted to a slight drag. Im not a drum guy so not sure if that is the correct way to gauge proper adjustment but seemed logical.
 

AeroCoupe

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes
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#4
  • Aug 13, 2023
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Yup that’s the way you adjust them initially. Did you apply the brakes a couple times and then recheck them?
 
W

WTW

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#5
  • Aug 13, 2023
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AeroCoupe said:
Yup that’s the way you adjust them initially. Did you apply the brakes a couple times and then recheck them?
Click to expand...
I did not. Just the initial adjustment. I’ll pull the wheels off and check it again.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
5 Year Member
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polk county florida
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#6
  • Aug 14, 2023
  • #6
My drum brake adjustment procedure: adjust till they drag while turning wheel forward, apply brakes pumping the peddle 2-3 times, check for drag, adjust if needed, drive the car applying the brakes several times, then back up applying the brake peddle several times so the self adjusters can work.
Now test the parking brake operation.
 
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AeroCoupe

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes
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#7
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https://www.corral.net/threads/93-ebrake-adjustment.2382537/
 
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limp

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done
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#8
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The secret to drum brakes is to adjust them as tight as you can , THEN back them off to adjust them...
Usually count the clicks when backing off then do the same amount of clicks on the other side
By tightening the brakes fully you get the entire shoe to seat before adjustment......
 
Last edited: Aug 15, 2023
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limp

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done
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#9
  • Aug 14, 2023
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My 83 parking brake has an adjustment nut under the handle in the car?
 

AeroCoupe

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes
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#10
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They stopped using the adjustable cable in 1987. You can install one but between the ratcheting system in the handle and properly adjusting the brakes the system is pretty good. Cable stretch is only solved with new cables.
 
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limp

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done
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#11
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AeroCoupe said:
They stopped using the adjustable cable in 1987. You can install one but between the ratcheting system in the handle and properly adjusting the brakes the system is pretty good. Cable stretch is only solved with new cables.
Click to expand...
Thanks for updating me......
 
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Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
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#12
  • Aug 17, 2023
  • #12
The handle will account for some cable stretch as it does have a self-adjuster. That's the racheting teeth part that most folks disable when they swap to rear disk brakes.

I would check to make sure the broken cable hasn't caused it to self adjust all the way up. Reset it down to low end of adjustment range as specified in the thread above and then adjust your drums.
 
W

WTW

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#13
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Mustang5L5 said:
The handle will account for some cable stretch as it does have a self-adjuster. That's the racheting teeth part that most folks disable when they swap to rear disk brakes.

I would check to make sure the broken cable hasn't caused it to self adjust all the way up. Reset it down to low end of adjustment range as specified in the thread above and then adjust your drums.
Click to expand...
I'll check the handle assembly as well. No broken cables, just the holding bracket. Haven't had time to tinker with it this week. Hoping to get it sorted out this weekend with all the advice above.
 

manicmechanic007

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#14
  • Aug 19, 2023
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If the brake drums are too big (oversize from turning or just worn out)
The E brake will work little if at all even with the adjuster cranked up all the way
If the drums are within spec, replace both rear cables
 
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WTW

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#15
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Finally got around to this issue. Car was out of commission for a few weeks to prep for paint. Cables were bad. New cables pads and shoes and she’s good as new.
 
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manicmechanic007

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#16
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I love the feeling of an E brake with all new parts.
If you use it regularly the cables will not freeze up for 20 years IMO
 

Scrapla347

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#17
  • Nov 28, 2023
  • #17
manicmechanic007 said:
I love the feeling of an E brake with all new parts.
If you use it regularly the cables will not freeze up for 20 years IMO
Click to expand...
What do frozen ebrake cables feel like? My car sat for 10 years and I'm replacing the drum brakes. My ebrake handle goes up and down, still makes that ratchet sound and I feel tension. I made the mistake of pulling the ebrake up while my drums were off. The shoe facing forward moved so I'm assuming that means the cables are ok but I want to be sure.
 

manicmechanic007

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#18
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Frozen cables will be solid and not operate or partially frozen they will apply and stick applied.
You were anle to get the shoes back into position okay right?
It sounds like yours are okay. If the spring on the cable returns the lever and does not stick
 
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Scrapla347

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#19
  • Nov 30, 2023
  • #19
manicmechanic007 said:
Frozen cables will be solid and not operate or partially frozen they will apply and stick applied.
You were anle to get the shoes back into position okay right?
It sounds like yours are okay. If the spring on the cable returns the lever and does not stick
Click to expand...
Ok I think mine are sticking open. I pulled up the Ebrake with the drums off and just the front shoe moved but I dind't see it go back down until I manually put it back into place. My ebrake handle feels normal but not sure if that's a good indicator. My passenger drum was rusted on and that wheel would not move until I got it all apart. The car sat for years and the passenger side got wet from sprinklers.
 

AeroCoupe

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes
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#20
  • Dec 2, 2023
  • #20
It sounds like you need a hardware kit and the drum brakes need to be rebuilt.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/brakebest-hardware-hydraulics/brakes/brake-hardware/drum-brake-hardware-kit/ac5871fb4153/brakebest-drum-brake-hardware-kit/bhh0/h2312/v/a/5471/automotive-car-1993-ford-mustang?q=drum+brake+hardware+kit&pos=0

The new springs will aid in the shoes returning back when the ebrake handle is released.
 
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