(maybe a mod can make this a sticky?)
i did every single step of the swap myself and did lots of research. if i missed anything, just ask. im always on stangnet
PI Heads complete - obviously
PI Intake manifold - again, obviously
Intake gaskets - manditory
Exhaust gaskets - optional, but i had new ones
Cam/valve cover gaskets - you'll definatly need these
Head gaskets - a big obvious, cant reuse the old ones
20 FRPP head bolts - DO NOT reuse the old ones. they're TTY (torque to yield) and cant be reused
Timing chains - if your car's old, get new ones. They're only like 20-30 each
Crank bolt - also a TTY design
If your heads are 01+...
you're fine. but you will need a new dipstick for the romeo motors. everything else should bolt up fine. you can reuse pretty much all your bolts.
If your heads are 99 or 00...
you'll need 8 of the upper timing cover bolts that go into the heads. these are 4 10mm studs and 4 10mm regular bolts. you'll need to contact Randy Stinchcomb at universal ford to get these because im pretty sure they're only sold with a new timing cover. your stock cover will accept these larger bolts (or at least they should, if not, just drill them larger). the other ends of the studs are now 8mm, so you'll need a few 8mm bolts for your power steering res bracket.
you'll also need a windsor style dip stick tube, you cannot use the romeo. windsor's bolt onto the head, romeo's bolt onto the valve cover.
lets see, what else...
you'll really only need a 3-point harmonic balancer puller and a good DEEP socket set, mainly 6mm, 8mm, 10mm, 13mm, 16mm, and 18mm.
you'll need a breaker bar and a torque wrench up to 120+ ft-lb's.
ya gotta tap that 2nd intake sensor somehow. if you have a 99 or 00 you'll have to use a 3/8" NPT (pipe tap, available at a plumbing store, not at lowes or home depot. shop early). gradually increase your drill bit until you get to a 9/16" (if i recall correctly). then SLOWLY twist that tap around in there. the sensor shoulf fit in snugly. i used the sensor that sends to the EEC in that piece, and it reads fine. i've read that you should put that same sensor in-line on the manifold for a more accurate reading, but the other way worked fine for me.
if you have a 01+, you can tap on a closed flat spot inline on the coolant crossover. its the perfect spot for it.
some other good stuff is a 8mm deep socket 1/4" socket and a swivel socket with, also, a 8mm. this'll make getting the valve covers off MUCH easier.
i'd recomment getting a long pipe to put over your breaker bar for getting those head bolts on and off, makes it much easier.
MAKE SURE YOU TRANSFER THE 1/8" NPT PLUGS ON THE BACKS OF THE HEADS. These are in the locations of where the tensionors would be on the front, but in the back, only the 3rd hole (in the middle of the flat spot) will be plugged in the back on both heads, but open in the front (these feed oil to the tensionors).
hmmmm....
make sure you dont mix up your flat and curved guides for each side, they are different. label them before you take them off.
if you're bolting up the flat guide on the passenger side, you'll most likely notice there's a screw hole missing, so only 1 bolt is going to be used on that one, dont worry.
to compress the tensioner (helpful in removing and definatly installing the tensioners) get a small alan wrench and push that little "latch" back in the hole to be able to press that locking latch in. press the tensionor in a vice all the way, oil will spew out, dont worry. when its compressed FULLY place a tiny pin or nail in the hole below it to lock it. when u install the tensionor, just pull the pin after bolting it on.
timing the car is easy as crap. make sure ur cams are oriented so they're all closed. make ur notch (not the keyway, that's at 10:45) is at 6 oclock. mark off both ends of the chain with paint and basically put each mark on the notches on each sprocket (both notches are RECESSED, not protuding!). have someone hold the cam so it'll line up with the notch, then bolt on the tensioner and release it.
if i missed anything, ask me. i troubleshooted pretty much everything on this. just ask questions and i'll get back to ya.
i did every single step of the swap myself and did lots of research. if i missed anything, just ask. im always on stangnet
PI Heads complete - obviously
PI Intake manifold - again, obviously
Intake gaskets - manditory
Exhaust gaskets - optional, but i had new ones
Cam/valve cover gaskets - you'll definatly need these
Head gaskets - a big obvious, cant reuse the old ones
20 FRPP head bolts - DO NOT reuse the old ones. they're TTY (torque to yield) and cant be reused
Timing chains - if your car's old, get new ones. They're only like 20-30 each
Crank bolt - also a TTY design
If your heads are 01+...
you're fine. but you will need a new dipstick for the romeo motors. everything else should bolt up fine. you can reuse pretty much all your bolts.
If your heads are 99 or 00...
you'll need 8 of the upper timing cover bolts that go into the heads. these are 4 10mm studs and 4 10mm regular bolts. you'll need to contact Randy Stinchcomb at universal ford to get these because im pretty sure they're only sold with a new timing cover. your stock cover will accept these larger bolts (or at least they should, if not, just drill them larger). the other ends of the studs are now 8mm, so you'll need a few 8mm bolts for your power steering res bracket.
you'll also need a windsor style dip stick tube, you cannot use the romeo. windsor's bolt onto the head, romeo's bolt onto the valve cover.
lets see, what else...
you'll really only need a 3-point harmonic balancer puller and a good DEEP socket set, mainly 6mm, 8mm, 10mm, 13mm, 16mm, and 18mm.
you'll need a breaker bar and a torque wrench up to 120+ ft-lb's.
ya gotta tap that 2nd intake sensor somehow. if you have a 99 or 00 you'll have to use a 3/8" NPT (pipe tap, available at a plumbing store, not at lowes or home depot. shop early). gradually increase your drill bit until you get to a 9/16" (if i recall correctly). then SLOWLY twist that tap around in there. the sensor shoulf fit in snugly. i used the sensor that sends to the EEC in that piece, and it reads fine. i've read that you should put that same sensor in-line on the manifold for a more accurate reading, but the other way worked fine for me.
if you have a 01+, you can tap on a closed flat spot inline on the coolant crossover. its the perfect spot for it.
some other good stuff is a 8mm deep socket 1/4" socket and a swivel socket with, also, a 8mm. this'll make getting the valve covers off MUCH easier.
i'd recomment getting a long pipe to put over your breaker bar for getting those head bolts on and off, makes it much easier.
MAKE SURE YOU TRANSFER THE 1/8" NPT PLUGS ON THE BACKS OF THE HEADS. These are in the locations of where the tensionors would be on the front, but in the back, only the 3rd hole (in the middle of the flat spot) will be plugged in the back on both heads, but open in the front (these feed oil to the tensionors).
hmmmm....
make sure you dont mix up your flat and curved guides for each side, they are different. label them before you take them off.
if you're bolting up the flat guide on the passenger side, you'll most likely notice there's a screw hole missing, so only 1 bolt is going to be used on that one, dont worry.
to compress the tensioner (helpful in removing and definatly installing the tensioners) get a small alan wrench and push that little "latch" back in the hole to be able to press that locking latch in. press the tensionor in a vice all the way, oil will spew out, dont worry. when its compressed FULLY place a tiny pin or nail in the hole below it to lock it. when u install the tensionor, just pull the pin after bolting it on.
timing the car is easy as crap. make sure ur cams are oriented so they're all closed. make ur notch (not the keyway, that's at 10:45) is at 6 oclock. mark off both ends of the chain with paint and basically put each mark on the notches on each sprocket (both notches are RECESSED, not protuding!). have someone hold the cam so it'll line up with the notch, then bolt on the tensioner and release it.
if i missed anything, ask me. i troubleshooted pretty much everything on this. just ask questions and i'll get back to ya.
. i hope its just running lean, runs strong as hell though... 
Let's see what he says...
