Passing an Emissions test

[shaggy911]

The vacuum line raises the fuel pressure up and down with the manifold pressure. It's there to keep a constant pressure difference on both sides of the injector. You take it off so that you have a constant to set the fuel pressure at.

Kurt

So even to adjust the fuel pressure regulator i should remove the vacuum line?

I adjusted the regulator with the engine running and without removing/pinching the vaccuum line. Pressure dropped fine.
Is this not advisable?

 

[revhead347]

So even to adjust the fuel pressure regulator i should remove the vacuum line?

I adjusted the regulator with the engine running and without removing/pinching the vaccuum line. Pressure dropped fine.
Is this not advisable?

No, it works fine. You just remove the line because it's easier to adjust it at a constant pressure. If you adjust it with the vacuum line on and it changes your idle, then it's harder to set it, but not impossible.

Kurt

 

[shaggy911]

I'd dial it back about 3 psi and see if you can smell it in the exhaust. It's not going to hurt the car at the revs they are running it at. I wouldn't run around at full throttle though.

Kurt

This trick works. But unfortunately did not let me pass. i tried three times.

1st try: idle @ 35psi. HC (Hydro carbons or unburnt fuel) at idle 570
2nd try: idle at 29psi. HC at idle 320
3rd try: Idle at 25 psi. HC at idle 350
1st and 3rd were at same two spots of same station.
2nd was a different two spots of the same station.

As you can see the results for 3rd attempt show something is not correct with the measurement. HC should be lower. Either there is something wrong with the equipment or equipment has a inherent variability in measurements. But that much variability (320 -to- 350 hc) when limit is just 220 is not acceptable. Thats approx 1/7th. Thats not tolerance, thats error.

Do these stations get calibrated like the gas pumps do? I want to go back and ask for their calibration. If not correctly calibrated they should refund me my money and pay for my wasted time. (i wish)


Emissions requirement is mandated at 220HC at idle. Also my rpm was a little over 1100 rpm, by about 90 or 100rpm. That sent them into overdrive... they brought out a spark detector (or whatever it is called) that connects to the spark plug wires. Its idl rpm for crying out loud. does a 100rpm difference matter so much?

No one raises a finger for all the lights running 24/7 with no soul in sight - local supermarkets, parking lots, private/govt offices, interstates, highways. just drive at 2am or so. Its like artificial daylight. All lights on, no one at home. wheres that power coming from? Isnt it primarily fossil?
Why isnt there a mandate for max wattage on these lights?
I drive my car for 7miles daily. Just fine me for my guzzler and move on. They even want a 1980s car to qualify. what a f'n charade, just put everyone on the bus (into the oblivion). With the number of horse farms around me, i should get a horse and drive that to work. They have to maintain the roads and have no way to collect taxes from me. tempting... it even works in the (unplowed) snow.

sorry about the rant.. i am frustrated.

I think it is time to get a normal closed loop or driveability tune for daily driving. At-least a tune that doesnt make it dump fuel at idle at a rate unacceptable by the almighty DOL.

 

[revhead347]

We understand the rant. Sometimes you just have to accept things for what they are. By the way, electricity in American is primarily from coal, which is the dirdiest burning fuel there is. I drive my car less than 1000 miles a year, so I feel your pain. My work vehicle burns 3 and a half gallons a minute per engine with no emission control devices whatsoever.

Anyway, you got something wrong somewhere. The car should idle at around 900rpm tops. Not sure what you have done to the engine, but idle shouldn't be that high. I can't say the emissions guys were wrong to check your idle. A high idle is a sign that something is wrong. I'd start pulling codes and checking for vacuum leaks.

Kurt

 

[shaggy911]

Anyway, you got something wrong somewhere. The car should idle at around 900rpm tops. Not sure what you have done to the engine, but idle shouldn't be that high. I can't say the emissions guys were wrong to check your idle. A high idle is a sign that something is wrong. I'd start pulling codes and checking for vacuum leaks.
Kurt

is idle determined by choice of the cam? yes it idles much higher.
It also dies out at low rpm between shifts if i am not careful with the gas.

BTW where is the obd1 port located in the engine bay? The one by the driver knee in the cabin is not enabled i think.