PATS Issue or something else (Bunch of HO2S Codes)

tsgman01

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Jul 8, 2003
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Bowie, MD
There is a lot of history on my car ('03 GT 5spd) that I am not sure if I need to get into. The bottom line is the car had interior fire damage and was gutted and now being rebuilt. Don't know if this is a gremlin or an issue. I sent the computer off to a "company" who said they could program the computer to bypass PATS. Got the computer back and I am not sure what the issue is but the car only starts once a day and runs for 10 minutes then it shuts off and will not restart til the next day. The car has a new gauge cluster, and a new fuel pump/filter. I have the paid version of the forscan software and I was able to run the PATS programming to initialize the new cluster. When the car first starts there are no lights on the cluster, when it cuts off the theft light starts blinking in a 1/6 pattern. I don't know how to confirm if its actually disabled and because I can access the PATS programming with the forscan software, I am believing its not disabled. Can PATS cause this type of behavior, run for about 10 minutes and then shut off for the day? The other odd thing is that when its running if I press the gas pedal, lightly or softly, the car shuts off immediately and is done for the day. Like I stated, I can start the car every day and it runs fine for about 10 minutes, shuts off and won't start again til the next day. I didn't find much on how to determine if PATS is in fact en/disabled.
 
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wmburns

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Aug 14, 2009
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Can PATS cause this type of behavior, run for about 10 minutes and then shut off for the day?
NO! Ford Factory PATS will never turn off the motor once it has started. Something else is causing the motor to shut off.

Note,when PATS is disabled inside the PCM, because the cluster hasn't been "married", the cluster will "think" there's a PATS error.

I didn't find much on how to determine if PATS is in fact en/disabled.
I'm not sure that I know for certain how to tell if PATS has been disabled inside the PCM. But I can tell you that IF PATS has been tripped, there will be a PATS specific DTC stored inside the PCM. no DTC, then PATS is not the reason that the motor is quitting.

The other odd thing is that when its running if I press the gas pedal, lightly or softly, the car shuts off immediately and is done for the day.
IMO you should look at fuel control here. Either:
  • The MAF is not reporting accurate numbers.
  • The fuel pressure is too low
  • the fuel injectors are clogged
  • The fuel rail pressure sensor is not reporting accurate values.
  • The FRPS intake vacuum reference line is disconnected or leaking.
  • there is an intake vacuum leak allowing unmetered air to enter.
  • Exhaust or cat is blocking the flow of exhaust.
IMO one of the things you should verify is that the IAT and ECT are sending "reasonable" values to the PCM. This also applies to the MAF.
 
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tsgman01

Member
Jul 8, 2003
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Bowie, MD
Thank you for the information. I Will take a look at all the things you suggested. On another note, I ran the forscan key on engine on test while it was running and the following codes were returned. Not sure if that changes/confirms your recommendation, but here they are:

P1000
P1138
P1158
P1233
P1132
P1152

The codes point to so much, I wouldn't have a clue where to begin. I am by no means a mechanic, but I have no problem getting my hands dirty when guided.. Thank you again for your help...
 

wmburns

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Aug 14, 2009
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Houston Texas
If asking for an educated guess.
  • Fuse F2.2 and F2.8 have power going in and out.
  • That the O2 heaters are working. Confirm power at the O2 sensors.
  • Confirm there isn't a short to power at the O2 signal return line.
  • Confirm there is ALWAYS power to the trunk mounted IFS switch during the entire sequence. Why is there a P1233 in the DTC list?
Did you get the style O2 sensors that require that the pigtail is field spliced into place? Double check that the wiring is correct.

P1138 - Lack of HO2S-12 Switch, Sensor Indicates Rich

P1152 - Lack of HO2S-21 Switch, Sensor Indicates Rich

P1158 - Lack of HO2S-22 Switch, Sensor Indicates Rich

P1132 - Lack of HO2S-11 Switch, Sensor Indicates Rich

P1233 - Fuel System Disabled or Offline

Use the ODB2 scanner to monitor various PID's such as:
  • Fuel pressure. Does it change during a start sequence?
  • Each of the O2 sensor return voltages. What are the value at key on engine off? What happens when the motor starts?
The other odd thing is that when its running if I press the gas pedal, lightly or softly, the car shuts off immediately and is done for the day.
To me this also points to a lack of fuel. What is the fuel pressure as reported by the PCM? I find it odd that the PCM is also throwing a P1233 DTC.
When the car first starts there are no lights on the cluster,
When does the cluster start working? Explain?
 

tsgman01

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Jul 8, 2003
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Bowie, MD
OK.. I had some time to work on the car.. I went back to the basics, power confirmed in and out on F2.2 and 2.8... Based on something else I read, I disconnected the mass air intake sensor and the car started and the idle was smooth, let the car run for about 5 minutes and I was able to press the gas pedal without it cutting off. Thinking the sensor was dirty, I got the mass air cleaner and cleaned it. Connected it back and the car started and the idle wasn't as smooth as it was when it was disconnected and it cut off as soon as I pressed the gas pedal. You asked about O2 voltages (I have not replaced the O2 sensors), I ran the forscan and will attach screen shots from the car at idle, hoping it will answer the O2 question. The odd thing is that there isn't power to the IFS switch (I must be measuring it wrong as the car does start), do I test power by probing the back while its connected or disconnect the pig tail (I am not able to get a reading either way, using a meter and a probe with the light on it). I apologize for being all over the place, that shows how confused I am with all the possibilities of whats wrong. I am hoping the screen shots will give some insight. When the car does start, there are no indicator lights on the bottom other than the brake light. The battery is new and is on a trickle charger. Thank you!!!
 

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wmburns

SN Certified Technician
Aug 14, 2009
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Houston Texas
For the IAT at -18 C is an unreasonable value. Likely means there's a broken wire or you have used an incorrect MAF sensor without the built in IAT.

Fuel rail pressure at 53 Kpa = 7.687 PSI. Does that seem real low to you?

Regarding to O2 sensors voltage. ForScan has the ability to graph. To check the voltages suggest GRAPHING the O2 sensor volts to see HOW it changes over time.
 

tsgman01

Member
Jul 8, 2003
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Bowie, MD
ok, still at this. I was able to map the O2 sensors and I definitely see something but I don't know what to make of the graphs. I've attached them to this post, the file names indicate when they were taken (key on, cold start, and at idle warm engine). I also have the fuel pressure graph at crank, but the car wouldn't start (same issue, the car runs for about 8 minutes then shuts off and won't start again til the next day).

Yes the fuel pressure is low, but the car idles for 10 minutes at about 800-900 RPM and stutters (almost shuts off) when the engine is cold, as shown in the graph, so I don't know what to make of low fuel pressure, I can throttle the engine under the hood and the car responds strong all the way thru the RPMs.

The MAF sensor has the thermometer looking bulb in it, its the one that was on the car I have not changed it, only cleaned it with MAF cleaner. Visibly looking, the wires don't appear to be broken and all connectors are correctly connected.
 

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tsgman01

Member
Jul 8, 2003
39
0
7
Bowie, MD
ok, so I went back to the basics as all the testing was getting a little confusing having performed so many tests.. However, I found out my meter wasn't working properly, it would read volts and nothing else, it wasn't until a buddy bought his meter over and found a bad fuse by testing continuity, fuse looked good on visual inspection but we tested all of them for continuity, so listen to Burns when he tells you visual inspection isn't enough... Found a bad fuse (one of the CCRM fuses, there are several) and replaced it and the car came alive, fuel pump is now priming and runs great. There are a couple CCRM fuses and the odd thing is that it was "clicking" when I turned the key and there was voltage, so the good fuse was misleading my test. I am not sure if I am out of the woods yet, I have not pulled codes again, it got late...

Thank you, this forum is great and has a TON of information, I spent a LOT of time reading and reading and reading, and have learned more than I asked for....