A Little More Info for Future Readers & Those Watching This Thread
---The new style PCV valve works for a broad range of vehicles, including the 2.9L i6 IIRC. The P/N is assigned by the amount of vacuum needed to move the pintle and not simply the OD of the barbed fitting, grommet end, threaded end, etc., per application. Since the grommet end is the same size on most, and vacuum required for operation is the same, rather than make 4 or 5 different packages, train people to work the line differently, change laser jet for printing cases of parts, etc., one PCV Valve is made & it's up to you to make it match your old one.
---In between the 3/8" and 5/16" nipples there is a plug. Twist the plug off and insert it in the 5/16" nipple if the 5/16" nipple is unneeded.
---The plastic Tee and steel PCV Valve are separate. You can pull the Tee off the PCV Valve for use on the 5.0. BTDT.
---PCV Valves very rarely go bad and unless the valve's casing itself is plastic (like most cheap-o frams), there would be no need to replace it regularly. Cap off one end with a thumb, spray carb cleaner or similar solvent inside it, filling it half way, cover the other end with finger and shake "watch yourself" (eye protection). Some PCV Valves carry the same P/N they did 30 years ago and some 30 year old PCV Valves are still in use.
---The wire mesh filled "looks like a PCV Valve", if the 4.6 has such an animal, is as much not a PCV Valve as it was on my IHs from the 70s. PCV Valve's main job is to stop vacuum to prevent ignition of crank case gasses when under load and backfire occurs. That would be a breather element, and if a hose is hooked to it, running to/around the cold air intake, that would be a flame arrestor (see marine parts) of sorts. It is, simply put, the other end of the Crankcase Pressure System. The wire mesh can be cleaned with the same solvents as the PCV Valve, in the same way.