Pertronix pooped. Back to points?

D

DJCarbine

New Member
May 4, 2005
392
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0
#1
I have been fighting starting issues this winter. I thought it was because I had to choke, so I installed my manual choke and it didn't help at all really. I re-did the engine grounds, same result. I saw a post about testing for spark by grounding the number 1 plug wire a few mm from a good ground, and setting the engine to TDC and rotating the distributor.

Nothing.

Tried again several times swinging the distributor back and forth.

I might have gotten 2 or 3 sparks out of 20 swings. That explains when cranking sometimes it sounds like its firing but doesnt start.

I converted my ignition to run off a full 12v as per the pertronix instructions.

I am going to autozone and getting a set of points. I have an accel super stock coil. Will I be safe running the points system @ a full 12 volts? I know there is a resistor wire, but was taken out a while ago.



Any input? Ways to bench test the ignitor II module? Does anyone want a sort-of-working pertronix setup?
 
#2
How old is the Pertronix unit ? If not that old, I'd call em and see if they'll replace them. The points need a resistor. How long they'll last without one is something I can't answer. The resistor is available separately too. You can find these at the local parts house.
 
#3
Pertronix unit is about 3-4 years old. My main goal is to get the car started and warmed up, I could care less if it drove around right now. I have never messed with points as the first thing I did when I got the car was ditch them and throw in the pertronix unit. I may just run the points at full power to get it started, and throw in a duraspark setup or just get another ignitor.
 
#4
I just had my stock dizzy recurved and the guy said my Ignitor 2 was not firing right at very low rpm. He said he adjusted the gap to .016" and it fired ok. When I put it back in the car it would try to fire but would not. I double checked my timing and it was ok. After some headscratching I pulled all my plugs and test fired one against the head. It fired ok so I put that one plug in. I did the same with the next and it fired hit and miss. I installed a Ignitor I module and it started fine. I have heard bad things about the Ignitor ll durability which is why I chose the original. Hope this helps. Good luck.
 
#6
Points are great if you want less power, poor gas mileage and you like to replace them a couple times a year. IMO a new Pertronix would be well worth it - or buy some other cheap electronic ignition.
One thing to look at is whether your chassis grounds are in good condition. Possibly that's part of the problem.
 
#7
I've grounded the engine to the body with a new ground cable, and from the negative post on the battery to anywhere on the engine I get 0 ohms closed, so I know thats a good ground. Where is the actual negative battery to chassis ground located? Somewhere near the starter?
 
#8
:D .... I feel like and idiot

I put in the points and still nothing. Then... this mysterious black box appeared. It was inline with my ignition wire. Oh that.... thats just a fuse I had inline just in case something shorted out because I'm running a relay and full 12v to coil.....


DING DING DING.

Fuse blew. Checked for spark and I have nice blue happy energy jumping from my screwdriver to the montecarlo bar.

So.... these fuses.... it helps to check them sometimes :shrug:

::edit

Its a good thing I didn't shoot the pertronix II yet, this means that it quite possibly still works
 
#9
I would go ahead and get the matching ignition coil with the peritronix. It does help out from experience . I had the same exact set up as you but with the ignitor I and the accel super coil.

Have fun with a running motor!!
 
#10
I have the matching flamethrower coil when i ordered the ignitor II setup, I just swapped coils as the accel was on sale and I thought the problem might be in the coil.

Still not running quite yet, I ditched the manual choke because a local parts store had the edelbrock electronic choke conversion kit on sale for 25 dollars. Throwing that on later today and maybe fire it up
 
#11
Got the electric choke conversion on the carb, and threw in the points. I did a cursory gap set @ .020 as it was the only feeler guage I had on hand at the time. 2 cranks and it started right up. I adjusted the choke idle and fast idle cam, and its good to go. Points arn't that bad, I think for 4 dollars a set I can live with them for now untill I save up enough for an HEI distributor. The motor has never started this easy, even with the pertronix and the old 2bbl autolite with automatic choke.

I was adjusting the idle mixture screws and did a throttle blip at the carb and there was a pop that came out of the carb. No flame, just a loudddddd pop. Hasen't done it since, and the idle screws are all adjusted.

The condensor did not come with a mounting however, so that leaves it just laying in the distributor. Anyone know where I can get this somewhat trivial peice?
 
#13
D.Hearne said:
:D Toss the condensor in the box with the points. You don't need it. :nono: Might also consider running to the local parts house and buy a fresh reman distributor to house the Pertronix instead of that:D butt-ugly :D HEI unit.:rlaugh:
Click to expand...

I'm considering getting the crane unit, as it is about 60 bucks and has a built in rev-limiter. Seems like a good alternative to the pertronix unit, but I know you love the pertronix brand :D

Any qualms about reliability of the crane unit?
 
#14
I've got the Crane XR-1 in my 89 Ranger's 5.0. Working fine for about two years now. I've had the Pertronix I & II. I replaced the "II" with the XR-1 on a hunt to solve a missfire that turned out to be vacuum leak from a "sucked in" intake gasket on the 331. Turns out my teenaged son (at that time) rev'd it to 7500 rpms, then let off the gas without going into neutral.:rolleyes: The only difference I saw between the "I" and "II" was the later didn't develop a misfire after a thru the carb "hiccup" backfire. The "I" was also used in the Ranger, then later migrated to the 68 Merc I had. Still got the "II" unit in a box. I ran both the "II" and the XR-1 with a Mallory Promaster points/efi coil. Cap and rotor are the big EFI post type with a small to large cap adapter (Ford used these setups on the early 80's Duraspark) And Ford Racing 9mm wires.
 
#17
DJCarbine said:
I've grounded the engine to the body with a new ground cable, and from the negative post on the battery to anywhere on the engine I get 0 ohms closed, so I know thats a good ground. Where is the actual negative battery to chassis ground located? Somewhere near the starter?
Click to expand...

Sounds like your grounds are probably ok. I don't think I understand this question, though. The negative battery ground is connected to the negative post on the battery. If you want to see where the other side is connected, just follow the wire. :) I'm sure this can't be what you're asking, so I must not get your question.
 
#19
Duraspark is good too, if you can get the whole thing (dist. wiring and spark box). I always connect the negative cable from the battery to a cleaned off part of the engine block and another from there to the body or frame.
 
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