Progress Thread Pete is checking out these valve covers

I'm lucky I have all the original owners manuals etc. from my coupe. The original owners was a cool guy... :cool:

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Rodents got into the transformer in my neighborhood and knoked out the power so I went for a ride
 

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When I back out of my driveway there is a cluck. I am thinking about doing poly bushings in my front control arms. I was reading a post on here, and it seems easy enough. Anybody do it? Will my car with 130.000 miles feel any better. Its the only front end part I have not done.
 
....I did them. I am a journeyman with this stuff. Seems easy , and for fifty bucks I would hope to have a like new feel. Poly or rubber..Also can you use a C Clamp like said on here. I cant get a press. I am ready to order some stuff
 
Last time I removed front springs I supported control arms with a jack on the back side where they bolt to the frame ,
removed the two bolts, lowered jack and took the springs out the back side.
Easier and safer that way imo, installation was the reverse.
Springs are under tension be careful !
 
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I did poly control arm bushings last winter. The bushings use the OE bushing casing so no press is technically required.. but it would make the job easier. You can try using a bench vise but having a ball joint press on hand may be helpful. I drilled and cut out the rubber. I then used a wire wheel on a drill to clean the casing of any left over debris/rubber bits. The wire wheel can be ground down on a bench grinder so it fits in the casing better. Then press in the poly bushings into the OE bushing casing. I THINK i used my vise but I may have used the ball joint press. You can borrow a ball joint press at just about any auto parts store (free). I would also recommend doing ball joints while you're there. If you car is lowered the MM spring tool is a safe way to install/remove springs. I did poly control arm bushings, sn95 ball joints, MM bumpsteer kit, and new sway bar endlinks with poly bushings. My control arm bushings were dry rotted but I did everything else for piece of mind since I was in there. The improvement wasn't as drastic as I thought it would be but it's hard to gauge since I didn't drive the car for months. I'm jealous you get to use yours year round.
 
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Got home to RockAuto on a Sunday. Three day delivery , and all well of coarse. The condensor is really nice quality with thick powder coat. Dryer is just a dryer. The one in the picture was shiny. This one not. I did not like $23 delivery $12 tax you get spoiled with Amazon and LMR. I need to check in with Monkeybutt he got a Ac 134 redo and his works. Now need a complete clean and try again....Hope all is well with you guys
 

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Pete,since you are going to flush the a.c. ,you should look into ES12a.I've been using it for years now, it's colder then 134a and you use less and there is less head pressure on the compressor. It's compatible with both oils and doesn't need to be introduced into vaccumm.It has been a win win for me in my stang and friends cars.
But don't take my word for it or anyone else's , do your own research like I did,dig deep and you'll see the truth.
 
I use ACpro from advance and Esther oil for the compressor. Blows cold enough to send vapor out the vents in the hot summer days. No vacuum...no issues. Your compressor is different though.
 
I am going to use ac pro.....Last time I used H F generic I think. Thats all the had Johnsons is supposed to be good they didnt have it. Hope it works last time I think I had a lot of old oil and leak sealer of the old variety. Fingers crossed I got about $700 in this mess so far. The only thing I need to clean other than lines is the thing in the dash. Im going to work that thing like crazy