Like the title says: I am looking to relocate my battery to the hatch area and looking for ideas AND PICS. how to mount it and possible mounting trays or boxes. Also, if someone could explain the size of wires and what type of welding wire I need and the type of ends I need. If someone could list everything I need it would help greatly so I can collect all the parts. jrhicker has posted many times how to do it, but if someone could be a little more detailed about it without the diagrams, just talking me through all the steps, I would appreicate it. I just dont quite follow his diagrams, call me ignorant, but I just want to make sure I do this right.
pics of relocated battery
- Thread starter Fox_84
- Start date
Roland69
Sergeant Tangnet
Required Tools:
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1. 15 ft. of 1 gauge wire,(Lugged on both ends).
2. 15ft. of 4 gauge wire, (Lugged on both ends).
3. 3ft. of 1 gauge wire, (Batt-terminal on one end, lugged on the other end).
4. 2ft. of 1 gauge wire, (Batt-terminal on one end, lugged on the other end).
5. One 175amp fuse (from a '96 Contour).
6. One fold-down license plate bracket.
7. On/Off kill switch.
8. Heavy duty Shrink tubing
I chose to route the wiring inside the car. I felt it was safer than exposing the cable to outside elements.One hole drilled for the vent tube (3/8"). One hole for the Neg cable to attach it to a Quad-shock mounting plate (7/16"). One hole (5/8") to the right of the rear striker-plate for the rear hatch behind the license plate. One (3/4") hole up front behind the Dead- pedal into the wheel-well. Two (3/8") holes, one on each side of the right rear frame rail for the Battery-Box. (You have to drop the gas tank strap on the right side, & loosen the drivers side strap to lower it enough to get to the holes with a wrench). I used Rubber grommets for all the holes drilled. When attaching the various lugs to the cables, I simply put the lugs in a vise, cut small pieces of solder and dropped them into the lug while keeping a propane torch on it to melt the solder. When 3/4's of the way full, I would jam the cut back portion of the cable into the lug and hold it there until it cooled for awhile. Be sure to put your Shrink-tubing on the cable & away from the heat BEFORE you do the solder thing! Also be sure to use Flux when soldering. The 4 gauge wire then goes from the + side of your switch, to the pos.side of your starter-relay.
Also your 1 gauge wire goes to the same terminals as your 4 gauge wire. Short positve 1 gauge wire from the Battery to the other side of the switch. Short 1 gauge wire from the neg side of the battery, to the quad shock mounting plate. I used my old neg bat cable by cutting the post connector off the one end & soldered a lug onto it. Then simply mounted it in one of the holes that was used to hold the old battery tray in place. ( You need the ground up front).
As for the Vent-tube, I drilled my hole on the right side of the frame rail, (next to the Negative bat-cable hole), exposing about 2 inches of Vent tubing showing thru to the extreme rear of the wheel-well. The 175amp fuse gets lugged between the 1 gauge wire that goes all the way up front. (I cut the 1 gauge wire about one foot from the switch, lugged both cut ends, and mounted the fuse right behind the interior wheel-well panel).
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1. 15 ft. of 1 gauge wire,(Lugged on both ends).
2. 15ft. of 4 gauge wire, (Lugged on both ends).
3. 3ft. of 1 gauge wire, (Batt-terminal on one end, lugged on the other end).
4. 2ft. of 1 gauge wire, (Batt-terminal on one end, lugged on the other end).
5. One 175amp fuse (from a '96 Contour).
6. One fold-down license plate bracket.
7. On/Off kill switch.
8. Heavy duty Shrink tubing
I chose to route the wiring inside the car. I felt it was safer than exposing the cable to outside elements.One hole drilled for the vent tube (3/8"). One hole for the Neg cable to attach it to a Quad-shock mounting plate (7/16"). One hole (5/8") to the right of the rear striker-plate for the rear hatch behind the license plate. One (3/4") hole up front behind the Dead- pedal into the wheel-well. Two (3/8") holes, one on each side of the right rear frame rail for the Battery-Box. (You have to drop the gas tank strap on the right side, & loosen the drivers side strap to lower it enough to get to the holes with a wrench). I used Rubber grommets for all the holes drilled. When attaching the various lugs to the cables, I simply put the lugs in a vise, cut small pieces of solder and dropped them into the lug while keeping a propane torch on it to melt the solder. When 3/4's of the way full, I would jam the cut back portion of the cable into the lug and hold it there until it cooled for awhile. Be sure to put your Shrink-tubing on the cable & away from the heat BEFORE you do the solder thing! Also be sure to use Flux when soldering. The 4 gauge wire then goes from the + side of your switch, to the pos.side of your starter-relay.
Also your 1 gauge wire goes to the same terminals as your 4 gauge wire. Short positve 1 gauge wire from the Battery to the other side of the switch. Short 1 gauge wire from the neg side of the battery, to the quad shock mounting plate. I used my old neg bat cable by cutting the post connector off the one end & soldered a lug onto it. Then simply mounted it in one of the holes that was used to hold the old battery tray in place. ( You need the ground up front).
As for the Vent-tube, I drilled my hole on the right side of the frame rail, (next to the Negative bat-cable hole), exposing about 2 inches of Vent tubing showing thru to the extreme rear of the wheel-well. The 175amp fuse gets lugged between the 1 gauge wire that goes all the way up front. (I cut the 1 gauge wire about one foot from the switch, lugged both cut ends, and mounted the fuse right behind the interior wheel-well panel).
GreatWhite
Member
DMAN302
My mom says thanks for the pearl necklace.
Love it..but I HATE to cut into perfectly good body panels...to hard to find good ones anymore....really nice job though TIMMMMMMMEH.
Rear mounted battery ground wiring. Follow this plan and you will have zero
ground problems.
One 1 gauge or 1/0 gauge wire from battery negative post to a clean shiny spot
on the chassis near the battery. Use a 5/16” bolt and bolt it down to make the
rear ground. Use a 1 gauge or 1/0 gauge wire from the rear ground bolt to a clean
shiny spot on the block.
One 4 gauge wire from the block where you connected the battery ground wire to
the chassis ground where the battery was mounted up front. Use a 5/16” bolt
and bolt down the 4 gauge engine to chassis ground, make sure that it the metal
around the bolt is clean & shiny. This is the alternator power ground.
The computer has a dedicated power ground wire with a cylindrical quick connect
(about 2 ½”long by 1” diameter. It comes out of the wiring harness near the
ignition coil & starter solenoid (or relay). Be sure to bolt it to the chassis ground
in the same place as you bolted the alternator power ground. This is an
absolute don’t overlook it item for EFI cars
Picture courtesy timewarped1972
Crimp or even better, solder the lugs on the all the wire. The local auto stereo
shop will have them if the auto parts store doesn't. Use some heat shrink tubing
to cover the lugs and make things look nice.
For a battery cut off switch, see
http://www.moroso.com/catalog/categorydisplay.asp?catcode=42225 is the switch
http://www.moroso.com/catalog/images/74102_inst.pdf
Use the super duty switch and the following tech note to wire it and you
will be good to go.
Use the Moroso plan for the alternator wiring and you risk a fire.
The 10 gauge wire they recommend is even less adequate that
the stock Mustang wiring.
There is a solution, but it will require about 40' of 18 gauge green wire.
Wire the battery to the two 1/4" posts as shown in the diagram.
The alternator requires a different approach. On the small alternator plug
there is a green wire. On the diagram it is #904, lt green/red wire that connects
to the alternator and dash light. It is the sense lead that turns the regulator on
when the ignition switch is in the run position. Cut the green wire and solder the
40' of green wire between the two pieces. Use some heat shrink to cover the
splices. See http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=7 for some excellent
help on soldering & using heat shrink tubing.
Run the green wire back to the Moroso switch and cut off the excess wire.
Try to run the green wire inside the car and protect it from getting cut or
chaffed. Crimp a 18 gauge ring terminal (red is 18 gauge color code for the crimp
on terminals) on each wire. Bolt one ring terminal to each of the 3/16" studs.
Do not add the jumper between the 1/4" stud and the 3/16" stud as shown it the
Moroso diagram.
How it works:
The green/red wire is the ignition on sense feed to the regulator. It supplies
power to the regulator when the ignition switch is in the run position. Turn
the Moroso switch to off, and the sense voltage goes away, the voltage
regulator shuts off and the alternator quits making power.
See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) &
Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-90 wiring and lots more…
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91eecPinout.gif
Diagram courtesy of Tmoss and Stang&2birds.
ground problems.
One 1 gauge or 1/0 gauge wire from battery negative post to a clean shiny spot
on the chassis near the battery. Use a 5/16” bolt and bolt it down to make the
rear ground. Use a 1 gauge or 1/0 gauge wire from the rear ground bolt to a clean
shiny spot on the block.
One 4 gauge wire from the block where you connected the battery ground wire to
the chassis ground where the battery was mounted up front. Use a 5/16” bolt
and bolt down the 4 gauge engine to chassis ground, make sure that it the metal
around the bolt is clean & shiny. This is the alternator power ground.
The computer has a dedicated power ground wire with a cylindrical quick connect
(about 2 ½”long by 1” diameter. It comes out of the wiring harness near the
ignition coil & starter solenoid (or relay). Be sure to bolt it to the chassis ground
in the same place as you bolted the alternator power ground. This is an
absolute don’t overlook it item for EFI cars
Picture courtesy timewarped1972
Crimp or even better, solder the lugs on the all the wire. The local auto stereo
shop will have them if the auto parts store doesn't. Use some heat shrink tubing
to cover the lugs and make things look nice.
For a battery cut off switch, see
http://www.moroso.com/catalog/categorydisplay.asp?catcode=42225 is the switch
http://www.moroso.com/catalog/images/74102_inst.pdf
Use the super duty switch and the following tech note to wire it and you
will be good to go.
Use the Moroso plan for the alternator wiring and you risk a fire.
The 10 gauge wire they recommend is even less adequate that
the stock Mustang wiring.
There is a solution, but it will require about 40' of 18 gauge green wire.
Wire the battery to the two 1/4" posts as shown in the diagram.
The alternator requires a different approach. On the small alternator plug
there is a green wire. On the diagram it is #904, lt green/red wire that connects
to the alternator and dash light. It is the sense lead that turns the regulator on
when the ignition switch is in the run position. Cut the green wire and solder the
40' of green wire between the two pieces. Use some heat shrink to cover the
splices. See http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=7 for some excellent
help on soldering & using heat shrink tubing.
Run the green wire back to the Moroso switch and cut off the excess wire.
Try to run the green wire inside the car and protect it from getting cut or
chaffed. Crimp a 18 gauge ring terminal (red is 18 gauge color code for the crimp
on terminals) on each wire. Bolt one ring terminal to each of the 3/16" studs.
Do not add the jumper between the 1/4" stud and the 3/16" stud as shown it the
Moroso diagram.
How it works:
The green/red wire is the ignition on sense feed to the regulator. It supplies
power to the regulator when the ignition switch is in the run position. Turn
the Moroso switch to off, and the sense voltage goes away, the voltage
regulator shuts off and the alternator quits making power.
See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) &
Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-90 wiring and lots more…
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91eecPinout.gif
Diagram courtesy of Tmoss and Stang&2birds.
Attachments
Ok I completely understand the ground and 18gauge wire runnin from the alternater to the switch and back to the alternator.
Only thing I am not understanding is the whole power side im just lost or having a brain cramp, as far as I can understand you run the positive from the alternator back to the + on the rear trunk mounted battery with a 175amp fue inline, then from the + to the switch ON, then from the other side of the switch I would run the + back to the starter? or to the starter solinoid?
Which way is right? I just think I am over complicating this but I just want to be sure when I actually do it.
Only thing I am not understanding is the whole power side im just lost or having a brain cramp, as far as I can understand you run the positive from the alternator back to the + on the rear trunk mounted battery with a 175amp fue inline, then from the + to the switch ON, then from the other side of the switch I would run the + back to the starter? or to the starter solinoid?
Which way is right? I just think I am over complicating this but I just want to be sure when I actually do it.
onefstsnake
New Member
I did the swap and I only grounded the battery to the frame (behind plastic 1/4 panel inside the car), then I ran a good ground from the head of the engine to the frame (near the header). To finish up, I ran a positive wire from the battery to the solenoid.
You just really need to make sure you ground properly and it will run.
You just really need to make sure you ground properly and it will run.
onefstsnake
New Member
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