Pics of the New Engine!

Davin

Founding Member
Mar 9, 2000
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Jacksonville, FL
Wow, This thing is a lot of fun..got all the bug worked out and she runs great. I really love the exhaust note with the Mac LTs, Catted H pipe and Edelbrock SDT mufflers..I haven't taken it over 3500 rpm but it sounds mean even up to there. I'm pretty stoked, the power one the new engine around 3000-3500 rpm seems awful close to what I was seeing at about 4000 in the old engine, and the cam doesn't really even kick in till about 4200. Can't wait to see what she can do...Thanks to all who chimed in and helped me out, its much appreciated :nice:
 

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VibrantRedGT said:
He's breaking the new motor in still.


Here's my 347. Mike might as well post a pic of your 347 too.


You break them in my taking them up to a higher rpm (4-5k should be fine) under load (2nd & 3rd gear on the street is fine) and let them coast down in gear. You do this a bunch of times varying the load, speed and rpm. Then come home and change the oil & filter and cut the filter open and check for shavings.

Heres my junk:
 
Whats up guys! long time no see. I see a lot of you have upgraded to stokers. Very nice :nice: I have a new plan up my sleve since hurricane Katrina took my baby from me. I'm planning a turboed 331 in a notchback. I'm shooting for 700+ hp....street legal:D :jaw:

Well, its good seeing you guys still have the horsepower addiction. Keep it up. Later

Craig
 
VibrantRedGT- It looks like you aren't running your heater. Is that right?

If so I am thinking about doing the same. Could you tell me what you blocked off and what you used to block them off? Any info would be good.

By the way, motor looks great!
 
Thanks guys, its been a long time in coming. To answer your questions, Vibe was right, the notion was to break in or heat treat the egine. Frankly I don't know much on the subject.

Grn 92LX, that sounds good to me, how many times or miles does that require to be effective?
 
Clark you are correct..no heat. Those caps you see on the firewall, well one was used on the water pump. The coolant temp sensor bolted directly to my lower intake in the back. That's it.

redink, yes I use to have the RPM. I sold it to Green 94 5.0. It's on his car with the same motor as mine except he has a Vortech. The ports of the lower didn't line up with the AFR 185's. The Systemax lower did perfectly.

In fact here is my old intake, spacer and throttle body on his 302 which will be a CHP 331 in a few weeks.
Rogerssideviewmotor.webp
 

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no heat here as well, used 2 caps to cover the heater core holes and another rubber cap with a hose clamp to block off the water pump. i used a 1/2 to 3/8 reducer to put the coolant temp sensor in the stock location where the heater tube threads into the manifold. the port in the back of the manifold where vibrantred has his coolant temp sensor is not a good spot for it, i dont think the coolant gets hot enough there. i know this because when i put my edelbrock manifold on i hooked up my auto meter mechanical water temp to the back port and it barely broke 160. put it where it belong in the front and the gauge read accordingly. i have also read this in numerous posts.
 
the caps i believe i got at home depot. they're the type of caps that u would on the bottom of the legs of a folding chair to keep it from scratching the floor. they have all sorts of sizes. the ones covering the holes in the heater core are plastic, the one i used to cap the w/p is rubber. i just used a hose clamp to tighten it and i have no leaks whatsoever. it looks like sh-t when people remove the heat and ac and dont cap the openings.