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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
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Pinion angle

  • Thread starter Thread starter Taz92gt
  • Start date Start date Nov 5, 2007

Taz92gt

Member
Oct 4, 2006
54
1
8
Knoxville Tn
Nov 5, 2007
#1
  • Nov 5, 2007
  • #1
O.k. im in the middle of getting my car ready for some real horse power, and I just had some sub-frame connectors put on. Now I have a grinding sound that is comming from the rear end that happens when I get on the brakes hard, or go over a hill that maxes out the rear suspension. I've got a T-5 w/ 2.95 1st gear from D&D, and an aluminum driveshaft, I also have lower control arms and adjustible uppers. My question is, might the pininon angle be causing this? My mchanic said that the driveshaft was too long but i dont want to have any of it cut off if its something else.
 

Hickfied

Member
Nov 9, 2005
413
0
16
Morganton, NC
Nov 5, 2007
#2
  • Nov 5, 2007
  • #2
Did you have the sfc's welded in when the cars suspension was loaded or unloaded? The suspension needs to be loaded when putting those in.
 

SuperStang83

Founding Member
Mar 21, 2001
1,693
0
49
Boyertown, Pa
Nov 5, 2007
#3
  • Nov 5, 2007
  • #3
Yeah your cars suspension needs to be under load when welding subframes in, that could make the difference.
 

$uperstang

New Member
Jul 20, 2004
476
1
0
Detroit, MI
Nov 5, 2007
#4
  • Nov 5, 2007
  • #4
BS mine was on the hoist when I welded/bolted mine on.
 

Blown331LX

Member
Apr 5, 2005
227
0
16
Chapel Hill, NC
Nov 5, 2007
#5
  • Nov 5, 2007
  • #5
When welding in subframes the car MUST have all for tires on level ground, with then weight of the vehicle on them. This is best done on an alignment rack or 4 post drive on lift. If you do it on the 2 poster you run a big risk of the body/subframe being tweaked, and when welded it says in this position which will throw a lot of **** off. More so door jams and latches than anything else. I dont see this causing a grinding noise. There is a chance the pinion could be off, is the car lowered? Do you have adjustable control arms? If there was a problem in the rear axle you would notice alot of other problems other than what you have. You would also have a gear whine and or clunking noise on drive or coast situations. Give me some more info about exactly when it happens and what other mods are done with the steering/suspension and brakes. If someone tells you its a good idea to weld in subframes any other way is an idiot. Rack a older unibody car on a 2 post lift that may not be dead nuts even and open the doors, or hell a convertible for that matter. Then open the door and try to shut it. It may work but its going to feel a little different than when its on all 4 wheels. Hell most convertible and T-top Vettes are suppose to have the doors open before lifting. This is all due to unibody flex, dont believe me call a chevy dealer ask the service manager about racking a Vette.
 
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