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Pinion Installation (HELP NEEDED)

  • Thread starter Thread starter stang_monkey
  • Start date Start date Dec 9, 2003
S

stang_monkey

New Member
Apr 30, 2003
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Dec 9, 2003
#1
  • Dec 9, 2003
  • #1
I'm swapping my gears, but I can't seem to get the pinion nut tight enough on the new pinion.

What I have looks like this: (except I'm on a cold garage floor)


Everything I've stuck in the holes to stop the pinion from spinning has bent or broke. (down 4 screwdrivers, some big allen wrenches, and some bolts)

It's taking insane torque. I'd say 200 - 300 ft-lbs to move the nut. (and there's still 1/4 inch of wiggle in the pinion)

Should it take this much torque? Is there a good trick to keep it from spinning?

Thanks for any help!

(also, anyone have any poor man's tricks for getting the right preload without an inch-pound wrench)
 

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Trublu01

SPRAYMAN
Founding Member
Mar 11, 2001
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Loxahatchee, FL
Dec 9, 2003
#2
  • Dec 9, 2003
  • #2
Someone needs to hold the pinion from inside. Next you need a large tq wrench for leverage and also a type of breaker bar to hold that piece from turning. I think it only needs like 95-120 ftlbs!
 
F

fastback brian

Founding Member
Jul 15, 2002
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So Cal , I.E.
Dec 9, 2003
#3
  • Dec 9, 2003
  • #3
you put a new crush sleeve in there and it will take way more than 300 ft/lb to start it crushing. you will need a bigger impact than that snap on, an Ir 2131 at 100psi line pressure will make short work of any crush sleeve.
 

Kurgan

Founding Member
Jan 31, 2001
3,028
1
58
Palm Beach Gardens, FL
Dec 10, 2003
#4
  • Dec 10, 2003
  • #4
Trublu01 said:
Someone needs to hold the pinion from inside. Next you need a large tq wrench for leverage and also a type of breaker bar to hold that piece from turning. I think it only needs like 95-120 ftlbs!
Click to expand...

Marc, Lee used a steel plate with holes in it that he bolted to the driveshaft mounting flange on the pinion, and then he put a long breaker bar into the square hole at the end of the plate, remember? Then he used a ratchet with a REEEEAAALLLLY long handle on the pinion nut itself to crush the sleeve and torque it to specs. And I remember it took several hundred ft. lbs. of torque to crush the crush sleeve.

That would be the best thing I can recommend is to find some way to get a plate to bolt onto the pinion flange that will allow you to put a breaker bar onto it. I think I've seen plates like it at some local auto stores where I live.
 
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stang_monkey

New Member
Apr 30, 2003
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Dec 10, 2003
#5
  • Dec 10, 2003
  • #5
Thanks guys.

I know it's not ideal to reuse the old crush sleeve, but it seems like it might save me some grief here. I'm scared of rigging something up to keep the pinion from turning just to have the bolts shear off in the pinion flange.

I read of some do-it-yourself people saying they always reuse the old crush sleeve and they haven't had problems.

What are the chances of having problems if I reuse the same crush sleeve? Anyone with personal experience?

Thanks again!
 
4

4.6Liter

New Member
Jan 21, 2003
146
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0
Dallas, Texas
Dec 10, 2003
#6
  • Dec 10, 2003
  • #6
stang_monkey said:
Thanks guys.

I know it's not ideal to reuse the old crush sleeve, but it seems like it might save me some grief here. I'm scared of rigging something up to keep the pinion from turning just to have the bolts shear off in the pinion flange.

I read of some do-it-yourself people saying they always reuse the old crush sleeve and they haven't had problems.

What are the chances of having problems if I reuse the same crush sleeve? Anyone with personal experience?

Thanks again!
Click to expand...

I use two bolts that thread into the flange a long pry bar and a breaker bar to tighten the nut. It takes ALOT to crush the new collar.

I have crushed one with the impact you are using in the pic and holding the flange with prybar.

I reused my old crush collar on my first gear set I ever did and had no problems. But I do recommend using a new one! Just take a little muscle to crush it.
 

yellow2kgt

Founding Member
Mar 18, 2002
175
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0
Fishersville,va
Dec 10, 2003
#7
  • Dec 10, 2003
  • #7
Your best bet is to take a long piece of steel (maybe a piece of angle iron.) and drill a couple of holes in it that will allow you to bolt it to the pinion flange. With that rotated against the floor your pinion will not turn. It takes ALOT of force to get the crush sleeve to crush. But it if you still have a 1/4" of play then you are not even on the sleeve yet. Keep tightening (sp?) you might have to get a breaker bar then put a pipe on it. But, as soon as you get all of the play out start being very carefull. Once the sleeve starts to crush it does not take much to get to the desired preload.
 
S

stang_monkey

New Member
Apr 30, 2003
8
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0
Dec 10, 2003
#8
  • Dec 10, 2003
  • #8
Thanks guys.

I wimped out and used the old crush sleeve.

Hopefully my first trip with the new gears won't be to a shop for a professional rebuild
 
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