Please, don't get mad for asking...

Jimmys66

Founding Member
Nov 28, 2001
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Paw Paw MI
....but this is a another tire fitment question on a 66. It looks like I'm going to use a 17x8 in the front with 4.75" bs. Accourding to the chart and you guys, a 235 is a hit or miss as far as tire rubbing. Not a problem. I'm ok with rolling a front fender.

I'm going to really lower the car, at least 2" to 2.5" in the front. Will this make rubbing more likely? Enough to step back to a 225?

Here is a pic of the rim on a coupe from the manuf. without any lowering.

http://www.coyswheel.com/photogallery/107.jpg

http://www.coyswheel.com/photogallery/105.jpg

http://www.coyswheel.com/photogallery/106.jpg

I wanted a 245-40 17 on the front but, I'd rather give up some tire size to get the stance right. Thanks
 
You guys are funny. At least you didn't chew me out for the tire question again.

I'm looking to put the fender just past the outside edge of the tire to no more than half way past the outside of the tire and the rim.

I'm looking to do this on a budget so I'm trying to avoid buying extra tires.:D

Maybe I'll step down to a 225-45-17. I'd rather be too small and buy larger tires later than to buy tires that I just plain cant use.:D
 
Jimmys66 said:
You guys are funny. At least you didn't chew me out for the tire question again.

I'm looking to put the fender just past the outside edge of the tire to no more than half way past the outside of the tire and the rim.

I'm looking to do this on a budget so I'm trying to avoid buying extra tires.:D

Maybe I'll step down to a 225-45-17. I'd rather be too small and buy larger tires later than to buy tires that I just plain cant use.:D

From what I've seen, I'll think you'll be fine with 235s.
 
I went to the goodguys car show at DelMar Fair grounds last weekend and talked at length with a guy that "lowered his car 3 in. in the front" he was running 235/45/17's on the front with TT2's 4.5 in. backspace and even with his fenders rolled he was tearing the shheesh out of the tires on the fender. By the way this car looked awesome!!! hope this helps? I'm gonna run 225's. After posting I realized I wasn't able to get a shot from the side of this car, hopefully you get the idea, this car has a very mean stance!!! just my 2 cents.
 
I have 235/45R17s on the front of my '65. Contrary to popular wisdom, though, I used a 17x7 rim on the front to avoid interference with my GW upper control arms. Lots of folks on this board use 17x8 with 4.75bs, which is what I have on the rear, but I couldn't get these to fit on the front. The 235 / 17x7 setup works great on the front - no interference, didn't have to roll the fenders, and just about completely fills the available space. My car is lowered quite a bit - honestly I've lost track of where it is relative to stock height, but 2" lower would be a reasonable guess. Hope that helps.
 
My car has 16x7's on the front with a 225/50 and it only rubs pulling up into a steep driveway. I lost how low I lowered it but it's prob about 2-2.5" drop.
 

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red65 said:
I have 235/45R17s on the front of my '65. Contrary to popular wisdom, though, I used a 17x7 rim on the front to avoid interference with my GW upper control arms. Lots of folks on this board use 17x8 with 4.75bs, which is what I have on the rear, but I couldn't get these to fit on the front.
So what did you end up using as a backspace for the front wheels?


Jimmys66, I like these new ones from Coys. The only drawback is that they are heavier than most wheels of the same size.
 
Red65, the rims I'm looking at aren't offered in 17x7's. So I'm kinda stuck with what they offer.

Z06KillinSBF, I'm looking to lower my car almost exactly to what you car is. Actually my car already is, but I'm redoing the front end to get rid of the drag set-up and want to replicate the stance with a susp that handels better.

Valley82, This is my biggest fear. Getting the tires on and just tearing the hell out of them.

4MuscleMachines, I didn't see those. I'll have to go back and look. The set I have pictured are going to get painted. The diamond grey will get painted black or white which is the color of the body.

I'm not put off the take these things to the milling machine if I have to, but of course I prefer not to.:rolleyes: I've got a friend that works in a machine shop so if an 1/8" needs to be removed to make them perfect so be it. I'd like to be able to use them on the car while I gather parts for the front end and a new brake set up.
 
i can tell you from MY experience, i have 1" lowered front coils, cut 1 coil out and it sits about2" loweren then my neighbors with 1" coils alone. I have 17X7 with a 215/45/17 and I think any wider would be a problem.I know what the "chart" says, but this is what im using and compared to other cars at the show this weekend, the drop was enought to tuck the tire and get rid of the gap.
 
iskwezm said:
i can tell you from MY experience, i have 1" lowered front coils, cut 1 coil out and it sits about2" loweren then my neighbors with 1" coils alone. I have 17X7 with a 215/45/17 and I think any wider would be a problem.I know what the "chart" says, but this is what im using and compared to other cars at the show this weekend, the drop was enought to tuck the tire and get rid of the gap.


Hmmm......I might be in trouble. Maybe I'll talk to Coy's and see if I can get a 17x7.
 
Some of the variables that cause fitment issues

are:

Different brand tires are different widths, even though they are stamped 235/45. To check on this go to www.tirerack.com and check the specs. With my 235/45WR17 (Bridgestone RE750) the tire measured exactly per the specs on their web site mounted on an 8" rim and checked with a set of brake drum calipers. Notice how different brands have a different overall section width. I think this is probably the most common reason why some say their tires have no problems while others rub.

Camber and whether you've done the "Shelby" drop to help hold the camber curve. If you lower your car, leave the camber close to zero, and don't do the Shelby drop, it's definitely going to rub, when the suspension is compressed.

Difference in wheels. Just because the box says 4.75" back spacing doesn't mean the wheel is in the right box, or the wheel is stamped correctly in the first place. Measure it yourself, before having a tire mounted, so you can take it back if it's wrong.

Car build from the factory (and any repaired damage from colision shops). If you are bound and determined to run the biggest tire you can. Find someone willing to drop a plumb bob, off the fender and measure to the wheel mounting face of the wheel hub. If you are running the same alignment specs, with the same mods, same wheel and tire specs...it just might work.

Otherwise, when you are ready, take your car to a tire and wheel shop that will work with you to get it right.


FYI: On my '66 convertible, 235/45 WR17 on 17x8-4.75" backspace don't rub, but come a little too close for comfort to the stock wheel lip, so I'll roll them just for insurance. I've done a 1" UCA drop, and just slightly over -1/4 degree camber, 1/16" toe in, and am using Opentracker UCA's. The wheels are custom built. and I have to get to the alignment shop to set caster (which will also make a difference). total drop is 2" (or 11.5" from the centerline of the hub to the top of the fender opening). The top of the tire "just" sits inside the wheel lip.
HTH.

Good luck with what ever you decide.

Scott
 
Thanks Scott. I never thought about using a plum bob. Great idea.

The front susp right now is all stock with a full coil cut from what I believe is the original spring.:notnice: with a set of 90/10 shocks in the front.

At this point I'm going for Opentracker's UCA with a progressive spring and an IAS shock, but want to lower the UCA more than 1".

I prefer the 225 over the 235 for the smaller diameter. I'm going to use a 255-45-17 on the back to still keep a little of the "drag look".

Oh yea, how do you like Opentracker's UCA?
 
Opentracker stuff is very high quality.

I was very impressed with both the UCA's and the roller perches. When I was talking with John, he didn't feel the need to go much over the 1" drop on a street car. That said, it's nice to have the ball joint "re-angled" in case you want to.

Be very careful with the 255's on the rear, I picked up a set of the RE750 Bridgestone 255/45WR17, and they would not work with out something to keep the rear end located laterally (i.e. Watt's link, or Pan Hard bar). There is about 1/4" total clearance for my tires mounted on 17x8" rim, and that is with the lip rolled tight. Backspacing and car build would be very critical, unless you plan on jacking the backend up like a stink bug.
I ended up going with 235's all around so that I can rotate, and stuck the 255's in the attic, until I build another rearend. Again, tire manufacture and rim width make a big difference to the overall width of the tire.

Good luck, and have fun!

Scott
 
66Runt said:
I was very impressed with both the UCA's and the roller perches. When I was talking with John, he didn't feel the need to go much over the 1" drop on a street car. That said, it's nice to have the ball joint "re-angled" in case you want to.

Be very careful with the 255's on the rear, I picked up a set of the RE750 Bridgestone 255/45WR17, and they would not work with out something to keep the rear end located laterally (i.e. Watt's link, or Pan Hard bar). There is about 1/4" total clearance for my tires mounted on 17x8" rim, and that is with the lip rolled tight. Backspacing and car build would be very critical, unless you plan on jacking the backend up like a stink bug.
I ended up going with 235's all around so that I can rotate, and stuck the 255's in the attic, until I build another rearend. Again, tire manufacture and rim width make a big difference to the overall width of the tire.

Good luck, and have fun!

Scott

Thanks Scott.

That pretty much settles my purchace for Opentrackers's UCA. Everyone seems to rave about how good his work is.

I've got a G-60-14 in the back right now which fits barely and going to a 255 is actually a smaller tire by 3/8" or so which will give me a little more room. I plan to use a watts link also and will eventually use composite leafs on the back.

This is a "fun" car and has always been a street-strip car and will now be a street-track car. Something I can change the tires on and go racing if the urge and opportunity hits. Living with some compromises on the street is ok.

How did you talk to John personally? I have a couple of questions for him before I order.
 
Just goes to show how much variance there can be

Sounds like you have more room than I do in the rear fenderwells, which will really help you out.
I stuck the tire up there, when the rear end was out. It fits but barely.

I met up with John at the Nor Cal Shelby mini-nats last fall at Sears point, he had just finished the parts for me, and seeing as we were both going to the same place, saved me the shipping.

What are you doing for the lower arms? I went with a set of Global West boxed arms to keep a somewhat stock apperance. Other than the paint was wet when GW stuck them in the boxes, they seem to be decent, and the stickers peeled off easily.

Good luck with your project!

Scott
 
I know Kumho and Nittos run fairly narrow. Pirellie (sp) runs really wide.

Rim width also has alot to say on how wheel a tire fits. Lets say a 255 tire on a 7" rim will have more bulge than say on a 9" rim. This could/could not be correct but this is what my experience tells me.