Please help, no knowledge about breaking in engines or 17x10.5 rear w/radials

godspeedX

New Member
Dec 26, 2003
29
0
0
South Texas
Okay, here it goes. I have a 2002 mustang GT, and I blew the engine a while back. It used to run 13.6's at a horrible track and 80degree weather on drag radials and bolt-ons, which is not bad at all, it ran 13.0's at the San Antonio track. I have a new 4.6L 2V longblock engine from the dealership and it has 1,220 miles on it as of now. Here's the problem, last night I was at the track testing it out for the first time, cool weather, and descent traction from everybody else. I re-installed ALL the bolt-ons I had before (listed at bottom), PLUS about an extra 8-14hp and 17x10.5 inch 03 Cobra rims with Nitto 35/315R17 drag radials and also stepped up from 3.73 to 4.10 gears (manual car). Now, my traction wasn't all that great at all, in fact it was a little worst than the smaller tires (in width) I had before, I guess I need to break them in, BUT my times were horrible, my fastest time was a 14.5 ET running at about 99 miles an hour through the traps. WHAT IN THE WORLD IS GOING ON HERE!!! Ahhhh, it still gets to me. I know there are plenty of factors into this but lets be reasonable here, a .1-.2 slower 60ft will not slow my et by almost a whole second.

Lets rule out my clutch slipping, shifting technique, and traction, because with street tires, a little less power to the wheels and shorter gears, I would hit atleast a 14.2.

I've come to the conclusion that either it's my rear wheels weight (20-30lbs. heavier even though I DO have fat nitto drag radials), or I need to continue running the engine for several thousand miles more before the engine internals adjust to going 5,900 RPM.

I do know I don't have the top end I used to have before, so that might be a hint. Anyone with this kind of past experience or problem, please help. I know this is long but I'd greatly appreciate any kind of advice.

Thanks for any of the time you all might take to respond.

mods:
Steeda CAI
Accufab 75mm
Accufab Plenum w/75mm transition from TB
MAC LT's
Mac off-road(not cats) pro-chamber 2.5in.
SLP cat-back 2.5in. system with 3.5in. tips
Predator tuned
4.10 gears by Ford Racing
17x10.5 SVT rims with Drag radials by Nitto 35/315
drag launch kit by Eibach
Aluminum Subframe connectors by Steeda w/cross brace
Lower and upper aluminum control arms by Steeda (non-adjustable)
Tri-Ax shifter for 3650 by Steeda
 
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You're running that engine too hard since it's so young. But, you probably lobed off 10k miles of it's life by taking it to drag so soon.

Maybe your tires aren't hot enough.
 
it could be, I'm hoping that's not the case though. I'm not going to take my car to the track anymore, atleast not until another 4 to 5K. My last engine blew because I had taken the care with a certain performance shop that failed to fill the engine with oil. I didn't notice it as I left and immediately it ruined my engine, therefore they had it replaced with a new one from the dealership. I know that sounds dumb, but I had it there for other reasons and the oil change was additional maintenance. It took about 10 minutes of driving and my engine was out.

ANyway, since I've had the new engine, I made 5 passes at the track last night above 4,000RPM. Everything before that, it's been well driven below that RPM range and immediately took it for a Mobil1 sythentic oil change when I got my car back. I know what you mean and it's probably a good idea to stay away from the track for several month, but I really do hope it's only that my engine needs to adjust to all that internal beating.

Thanks
 
The motor only has 1200 miles and you changed it to mobil one..

Good luck on the rings sealing..You really shouldnt change to synthetic till its broken in (3k+ miles).

AS far as track times, extra weight of the wheels matter,tires need to be broke in to(drag radials do need a break in time),current DA also matters..

Why rule out clutch slipping its very possible..