Please help with lower control arm install!!!

[ThnxSVT]

Hey guys,
I'm trying to install a set of Steeda upper and lower control arms, and have hit a major roadblock. For the life of me I cannot get the rear bolt (axle side) out for the stock rear lower control arms.

I have the nut off the rear control arm bolt, and can get the bolt to spin when turning it with a socket. I also have the shock unbolted with one floor jack supporting the axle, and another floor jack putting slight upward pressure on the control arm. I also tried various combinations of upward pressure between the two jacks.

I just cannot get the bolt pushed out of the control arm. I even tried taking off the caliper, rotor and brake backing plate off to give me good access to the bolt. I can't get the bolt to budge even when pounding on it with a 3lb sledge.

Does anyone have any tips short of cutting these off with a sawzall? I'm thinking that there's corrosion between the inner bushing shell and control arm bolt, but I'm not sure what to do about it.

 

[BannonJr]

Seriously, cut em off and save the aggravatio.n. if ford doesn't have the bolts in stock, find a suspension parts store to match one up.
They're a high grade bolt so a regular won't do.

 

[BannonJr]

Btw, its because the bolt has rusted to the inner sleeve.

 

[Gearhead91]

I was in your same place last month. I even took off the calipers as you did to give me more hammer room. I borrowed an air chizel from a buddy. Out in minutes. Yes, its because the inner sleeve is rusted.

 

[BannonJr]

On one side, I managed to pound it out a bit, then stuck a 10mm deep socket in there and laid into it with the air chisel with a hammer head.

That's when I cut the other side off. Never again will I mess around. Lol

Bolts from ford were 59 bucks for 4
Patience vs dollars haha

 

[ThnxSVT]

Thanks for the tips. I borrowed an air hammer from a neighbor and had the bolt out in mere seconds. Definitely pays to have the right tools.

The front bolt for the lower control arm looks great, but the rear bolt looks scary. The bolt is very corroded, and has thinned out to almost half it's thickness in a few parts. It's really the kind of thing that you'd think would lead to a recall or something.

Needless to say, I'm going to have to order 2 new bolts from Ford. That sucks that they are that overpriced, but I guess it is what it is.

 

[ThnxSVT]

By the way, has anyone found a better way to remove the axle bushing for the upper control arm? I tried Steeda's tip of using a 3/8" drill bit and walking it around the sleeve. That still left big chunks of rubbber bushing stuck to the steel sleeve. I probably ended up wasting another hour or so using a Dremel and propane torch to remove as much as possible of the old bushing. It actually ended up taking so long that I didn't even get to have at the other side.

That leads me back to my original question: Please tell me that somebody has a tip that can save me from the agony of trying to remove another one of these stupid axle bushings.

 

[BannonJr]

Yea, without using torches.
I simply knocked out the pin, then used a wood hole saw to get most of it out then used a brush drill bit that was the same size. Cleaned it up in a jiffy.
I believe I posted a thread about it.
Or pm me and I can email you some pics of what I used, I document everything I do.

 

[BannonJr]

After the hole saw

Using this bit really cleaned it up quick

 

[BannonJr]

Don't be shy with the grease, the more you put the better...it's sticky, but works well

 

[ThnxSVT]

I'll definitely give that a try for the other side. That looks like it'd b much easier than what I just went through on the other side.

I'm going to have to buy a hole saw. Any idea what size that is that you used?

 

[BannonJr]

Uh, gonna guess and say one size smaller then an inch and a half I think, just measure the opening and get on just smaller

 

[fshawn50]

Whats up ThnxSVT. I just put new Steeda weight jacker Lowercontrol arm and the Steeda tubular upper's. I did it how Steeda had recomended? Took foor everr.
I drilled out all the way around bushing.
Then took flat head screw driver an scraped out the rest of the rubber bushing.
Then took whirewheel like someone had posted previously, and cleaned up the inside of bushing housing?
But when i went to put the new bushing into the housing wouldn't go in but 1/3 of the way Soo i had to improvise
I took a piece of allthread think it was ? 3/4" Was all i had around the shop long enough to fit through the bushing and the housing and then on each end i put a good size washer and nut.
Then i took two wrench's and tightened then together and it pressed the bushing into the housing.
simple and easy
Hopefully helps??

 

[BannonJr]

That's where the grease comes in handy. I used a large c-clamp to get mine in.

The more I read this thread the more I remember the tricks I used.
But to sum it up:
Passenger side : 1/2 hour
Drivers side : 9 minutes loll

 

[ThnxSVT]

Thanks again for all the tips! I'm kind of at a standstill while I wait for the new control arm bolts. I'm going to try to have at it again tonight and at least get the uppers finished up.

By the way, I found the bolts at Jegs for quite a bit less than what Ford wants. They seem to be identical to the Ford stuff, so I'm pretty sure that they're sourced from the same supplier.

Both sets of upper and lower bolts are $29.99 JEGS 60552 JEGS Mustang Control Arm Bolts

Just the uppers are $14.99 JEGS 60553 JEGS Mustang Control Arm Bolts

Just the lowers are $14.99 JEGS 60554 JEGS Mustang Control Arm Bolts

Probably worth it to at least replace the lowers if your car is more than a few years old. I'd imagine that you end up putting a lot more stress on the control arm bolts with the new arms, so the piece of mind is worth the extra $15 or $30.

Also, for anyone that's interested Jegs also has the Front control arm bolts for $24.99 JEGS 60550 JEGS Mustang Control Arm Bolts

 

[BannonJr]

Yup, good digs, as long as the bolt strength is there, good to go