Please help with these codes

[foxbody1989]

Anyone if you could help me with these codes im new with these codes.
koeo: 51,54,31,81,82,85,84 and koer 85,35,98,54,51 please help.

 

[jcgafford]

11 - System Pass (O,CM,R)
12 - RPM Not Within Self Test Lower Limit (R), DC Motor Did Not Move (O,CM,R), Idle Speed Control motor or Air Bypass not controlling idle properly -generally idle too low
13 - RPM Not Within Self Test Upper Limit (R), Idle Speed Control motor or Air Bypass not controlling idle properly -generally idle too high
14 - Profile Ignition Pickup Circuit Failure (CM)
15 - Readout Memory Test Failed (O), Keep Alive Memory Test Failed (CM)
16 - RPM Too Low To Perform o2 Sensor Test (R)
17 - RPM below Self-Test limit with Idle Air Control off (R)
18 - Spark Out (SPOUT) Circuit Open (R), Loss Of Ignition Diagnostic Module Input To PCM/SPOUT Circuit Grounded (CM)
19 - Failure In PCM Internal Voltage (R), Erratic RPM During Hard Idle Self Test (R), Failure in EEC reference voltage (O)
21 - Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor Out Of Self Test Range. 0.3 to 3.7 volts(O,R)
22 - Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Sensor Out Of Self Test Range (O,CM,R)
23 - Throttle Position Sensor Out Of Self Test Range (O,CM,R)
24 - Intake Air Temperature/Air Charge Temperature Sensor Out Of Self Test Range. 0.3 to 3.7 volts(O,R)
25 - Knock Not Sensed During Dynamic Response Test (R)
26 - Mass Air Flow Sensor was greater than 0.7 volts with engine off (O), MAF sensor was not between 0.2 and 1.5 volts with engine running (R).
28 - Loss Of Ignition Diagnostic Module RH Side (CM)
29 - Insufficient Input From Vehicle Speed Sensor -To 1992 (CM), Insufficient Input From Programmable Speedometer/Odometer Module -From 1993 (CM)
31 - EGR Valve Position/Pressure Feedback EGR Circuit Below Minimum Voltage. 0.24 volts (O,CM,R)
32 - EGR Valve Position/Pressure Feedback EGR Voltage Below Closed Voltage. 0.24 volts (O,CM,R)
33 - EGR Valve Opening Not Detected (CM,R)
34 - EGR Valve Position/Pressure Feedback EGR Voltage Above Closed Limit (O,R), PFE or EVP circuit has intermittently failed above the closed limit of 0.67 volts (CM)
35 - EGR Valve Position/EGR Pressure Feedback EGR Circuit Above Maximum Voltage of 4.81 volts (O,R), PFE or EVP circuit has intermittently failed above the maximum limit of 4.81 volts (CM)
36 - System Indicates Lean At Idle (R)
37 - System Indicates Rich At Idle (R)
39 - AXOD converter bypass clutch not applying properly (CM)
41 - System Indicates Lean -passenger side(R), No o2 Sensor Switching Detected. always lean -passenger side(CM)
42 - System Indicates Rich -passenger side(R), No o2 Sensor Switching Detected. always rich -passenger side(CM)
43 - o2 Sensors indicate lean at Full Throttle (CM)
44 - Secondary Air System Inoperative. bank one, passenger side (R)
45 - Secondary Air Upstream During Self Test (R)
46 - Secondary Air Not Bypassed During Self Test (R)
47 - Measured Air Flow Low At Base Idle (R)
48 - Measured air flow too high at base idle (R)
49 - 1–2 Shift Error (CM)
51 - Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Open (CM,O)
52 - Power Steering Pressure Switch Circuit Open (O), Power Steering Pressure Switch Circuit Did Not Change States (R)
53 - Throttle Position Sensor Circuit Above Maximum Voltage (CM,O)
54 - Intake Air Temperature/Air Charge Temperature Circuit Open (CM,O,R)
55 - Key Power Check (R)
56 - Mass Air Flow/Vane Air Flow Sensor Circuit Above Maximum Voltage (O,CM,R), MAF Sensor short to power (CM,R), Transmission Fluid Temperature Circuit Open (CM,O)
57 - AXOD Neutral pressure switch circuit failed open (CM)
58 - Idle Tracking Switch Circuit Open Or Grounded -CFI (O,R), Vane Air Temperature Sensor Input Greater Than Self Test Maximum -EFI (CM,O)
59 - 2–3 Shift Error (CM), AXOD 4/3 Pressure Switch Circuit Failed Closed (O), AXOD 4/3 Pressure Switch Circuit Failed Open (C)
61 - ECT Sensor Circuit Grounded (O,CM,R)
62 - Torque Converter Clutch Error (C,M), AXOD 4/3 Or 3/2 Pressure Switch Circuit Grounded (O)
63 - Throttle Position Sensor Circuit Below Minimum Voltage (O,CM,R)
64 - Intake Air Temperature/Air Charge Temperature Circuit Grounded (O,CM,R)
65 - Transmission Control Switch/Overdrive Cancel Switch Circuit Did Not Change States (R)
66 - , MAF signal below minimum test voltage of .4vdc (O,CM,R), Transmission Fluid Temperature Circuit Grounded (CM,O)
67 - Park Neutral Position Switch Circuit Open; A/C On -Manual (O), Manual Lever Position Sensor Out Of Range/A/C On (CM,O), Clutch Switch Circuit Failure (CM)
68 - Transmission recently overheated, or TOT sensor intermittently failed below 0.2 volts (CM)
69 - 3–4 Shift Error (CM)
71 - Software re-initialization detected or Cluster Control Assembly circuit failed (CM)
72 - Insufficient Manifold Absolute Pressure/Mass Air Flow Change During Dynamic Response Test (R)
73 - Insufficient Throttle Position Change During Dynamic Response Test (O,R)
74 - Brake On/Off Circuit Open–Not During Self Test (CM,R)
75 - Brake On/Off Circuit Closed/ECA Input Open (R)
76 - Insufficient Vane Air Flow Sensor Output Change During Dynamic Response Test (R)
77 - Operator Error Dynamic Response Test (R)
78 - Re-Initalization Check (R)
79 - A/C On/Defrost On During Self Test (O)
81 - Secondary Air Diverter Circuit Failure (O)
82 - Secondary Air Bypass Circuit Failure (O)
83 - EGR Control solenoid circuit failure (O)
84 - EGR Vacuum Regulator (EVR) Control Circuit Failure (O)
85 - CANP Circuit Failure (O)
86 - Adaptive fuel limit reached (CM), 3 – 4 Shift solenoid circuit failure (O)
87 - Primary Fuel Pump Circuit Failure (CM,O)
88 - Loss Of Dual Plug Input Control (CM), Throttle Kicker Fault (?)
89 - Converter clutch solenoid circuit failure (CM)
91 - o2 Sensor Circuit Indicates Lean -driver side(R), No o2 Sensor Switching Detected. always lean -driver side(CM), Shift Solenoid 1 Circuit Failure (O)
92 - o2 Sensor Circuit Indicates Rich -driver side(R), No o2 Sensor Switching Detected. always rich -driver side(CM), Shift Solenoid 2 Circuit Failure (O)
93 - Converter Clutch Solenoid Circuit Failure (O)
94 - Secondary Air Injection Inoperative. bank two, driver side (R), Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Circuit Failure (O)
95 - Fuel Pump Circuit Open-PCM To Motor Ground (CM,O)
96 - Fuel Pump Circuit Open-Battery To PCM (CM,O)
97 - Transmission Control Indicator Lamp Circuit Failure (O)
98 - Hard Fault Present (R)
99 - Electronic Pressure Control Circuit Failure (CM,O)

Cylinder Balance Test Codes
10 - Cylinder #1 Failed Cylinder Balance Test
20 - Cylinder #2 Failed Cylinder Balance Test
30 - Cylinder #3 Failed Cylinder Balance Test
40 - Cylinder #4 Failed Cylinder Balance Test
50 - Cylinder #5 Failed Cylinder Balance Test
60 - Cylinder #6 Failed Cylinder Balance Test
70 - Cylinder #7 Failed Cylinder Balance Test
80 - Cylinder #8 Failed Cylinder Balance Test
90 - All cylinders passed Cylinder Balance Test

 

[jcgafford]

sounds like checking for vacuum leaks would be a good start.

 

[foxbody1989]

what would code 98 mean though?

 

[jcgafford]

Got me. I olwould clear codes and then run them again.

 

[foxbody1989]

cleared them and no luck they stick and no vacuum leaks.

 

[jrichker]

Anyone if you could help me with these codes im new with these codes.
koeo: 51,54,31,81,82,85,84 and koer 85,35,98,54,51 please help.

Did you buy the car from a guy with frizzy red hair, a red nose and floppy shoes? Was his name Bozo or maybe Ronald McDonald?
Removing the pollution control equipment from a 5.0 Mustang is a bad idea. All you have accomplished is to make the computer mad and spit codes. The pollution control equipment all shuts off at wide open throttle, so the HP losses from it on the car are 2-5 HP. The catalytic converters may soak a few more HP than that. None of the pollution control equipment reduces the HP enough to cost you a race in anything but professional drag strip competition. I seriously doubt that you will be in the final runoff on “Pinks”, so leave the smog equipment in place and make sure it is working correctly.

Know what does what before removing it. Remove or disable the wrong thing and the computer sets the check engine light and runs in "limp mode". Limp mode means reduced power and fuel economy.

If you removed the smog pump and still have catalytic converters, they will ultimately clog and fail.

Here's a book that will get you started with how the Ford electronic engine control or "computer" works.

Ford Fuel Injection & Electronic Engine Control 1988-1993 by James Probst :ISBN 0-8376-0301-3.

It's about $20-$45 from Borders.com see http://www.amazon.com/ . Select books and then select search. Use the ISBN number (without dashes or spaces) to do a search

Use the ISBN number and your local library can get you a loaner copy for free. Only thing is you are limited to keeping the book for two weeks. It is very good, and I found it to be very helpful.

Remove any of the equipment and you will not pass a full smog check, cannot title the car in an area that does smog checks and have broken several federal laws. Granted that the Feds are short on people to check cars, but it is still Federal law.

Most of your codes are related to missing or defective emissions equipment.

Code 51 Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor signal is/was too high -
Possible bad ECT sensor, or wiring. Possible missing signal ground –
black/wire wire broken or bad connection. With the power off, measure the
resistance between the black/white wire and battery ground. You should see
less than 1 ohm. Check the same black /white wire on the TPS and MAP
sensor. More than 1 ohm there and the wire is probably broken in the harness
between the engine and the computer. The 10 pin connectors pass the
black/white wire back to the computer, and can cause problems.

The ECT sensor is not the same as the temp sender for the temp gauge. It is located in the front part of the tubing that feeds coolant to the heater. The temp sender for the temp gauge has one wire connected to it: the ECT sensor has two wires connected to it.

Pin 7 on the computer - ECT signal in. at 176 degrees F it should be .80 volts

Voltages may be measured across the ECT by probing the connector from the rear.
Use care in doing it so that you don't damage the wiring or connector.

50 degrees F = 3.52 v
68 degrees F = 3.02 v
86 degrees F = 2.62 v
104 degrees F = 2.16 v
122 degrees F = 1.72 v
140 degrees F = 1.35 v
158 degrees F = 1.04 v
176 degrees F = .80 v
194 degrees F = .61
212 degrees F = .47 v
230 degrees F = .36 v
248 degrees F = .28 v

Ohms measures at the computer with the computer disconnected, or at the sensor with the sensor disconnected.

50 degrees F = 58.75 K ohms
68 degrees F = 37.30 K ohms
86 degrees F = 27.27 K ohms
104 degrees F = 16.15 K ohms
122 degrees F = 10.97 K ohms
140 degrees F = 7.60 K ohms
158 degrees F = 5.37 K ohms
176 degrees F = 3.84 K ohms
194 degrees F = 2.80 K ohms
212 degrees F = 2.07 K ohms
230 degrees F = 1.55 K ohms
248 degrees F = 1.18 k ohms

Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds

Code 54 – ACT sensor out of range. Broken or damaged wiring, bad ACT sensor. Note that that if the outside air temp is below 50 degrees F that the test for the ACT can be in error.

Check the resistance of the black/white wire to battery ground. If it is less than 2 ohms, it is good. If it is more than 2 ohms, the black/white wire has bad connections or a broken wire. Always take resistance measurements with the circuit powered off.

Then check the resistance of the ACT sender located in the #5 intake runner on most 5.0 stangs.

ACT & ECT test data:

The ACT & ECT have the same thermistor, so the table values are the same

Pin 7 on the computer - ECT signal in. at 176 degrees F it should be .80 volts

Pin 25 on the computer - ACT signal in. at 50 degrees F it should be 3.5 volts. It is a good number if the ACT is mounted in the inlet airbox. If it is mounted in the lower intake manifold, the voltage readings will be lower because of the heat transfer. Here's the table :

68 degrees F = 3.02 v
86 degrees F = 2.62 v
104 degrees F = 2.16 v
122 degrees F = 1.72 v
140 degrees F = 1.35 v
158 degrees F = 1.04 v
176 degrees F = .80 v
194 degrees F = .61

Ohms measures at the computer with the computer disconnected, or at the sensor with the sensor disconnected.
50 degrees F = 58.75 K ohms
68 degrees F = 37.30 K ohms
86 degrees F = 27.27 K ohms
104 degrees F = 16.15 K ohms
122 degrees F = 10.97 K ohms
140 degrees F = 7.60 K ohms
158 degrees F = 5.37 K ohms
176 degrees F = 3.84 K ohms
194 degrees F = 2.80 K ohms


CODE: 31 (KOEO) - EVP circuit below minimum voltage. Vref (5 volt reference voltage supplied by the computer) missing or broken wire or bad connection in circuit. Use a DVM to check for 5 volts on the orange/white wire. If it is missing, look for +5 volts at the orange/white wire on the TPS or MAP sensor located on the firewall near the center of the car. Use the black/white wire for the ground for the DVM.
With the sensor removed from the EGR and still connected, press the plunger and watch the voltage change on the brown/lt green wire. Pull the passenger side kick panel and measure the voltage at the computer. You will need to remove the plastic cover over the wires and probe them from the backside. A safety pin may prove very useful for this task. Use pin 27, EVR input (brown/lt green wire) and pin 46, signal ground (black/white wire) to measure the voltage. The orange/white wire is Vref and should always be 5 volts -/+ .25 volt. Be sure to measure Vref at the EGR sensor to rule out any broken wires or bad connections.
Measuring the voltage at the computer helps you spot broken wiring and intermittent connections.

See the graphic for the 10 pin connector circuit layout.

Code 35 EVR - EVP sensor signal is/was high – Bad sensor, or possible missing ground for EVR circuit , missing or disconnected sensor. With the power off, measure the resistance between the black/white wire and battery ground. You should see less than 1 ohm. Check the same black /white wire on the TPS and MAP sensor. More than 1 ohm there and the wire is probably broken in the harness between the engine and the computer. The 10 pin connectors pass the black/white wire back to the computer, and can cause problems.

See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host)

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91eecPinout.gif

See the graphic for the 10 pin connector circuit layout.

Code 81 – Secondary Air Injection Diverter Solenoid failure AM2. The solenoid valve located on the back side of the passenger side wheel well is not functional. Possible bad wiring, bad connections, missing or defective solenoid valve. Check the solenoid valve for +12 volts at the Red wire and look for the Lt Green/Black wire to switch from +12 volts to 1 volt or less. The computer controls the valve by providing a ground path on the LT Green/Black wire for the solenoid valve.

With the with the ignition on, look for 12 volts on the red wire on the solenoid connector. No 12 volts and you have wiring problems.

With the engine running, stick a safety pin in the LT Green/Black wire for the solenoid valve & ground it. That should turn the solenoid on and cause air to flow out the port that goes to the pipe connected to the cats. If it doesn't, the valve is bad. If it does cause the airflow to switch, the computer or wiring going to the computer is not signaling the solenoid valve to open.

Putting the computer into self test mode will cause the solenoid valve to toggle. If you listen carefully, you may hear it change states.


Code 82 – Secondary Air Injection Diverter Solenoid failure AM1. Possible bad wiring, bad connections, missing or defective solenoid valve. Check the solenoid valve for +12 volts at the Red wire and look for the Red/White wire to switch from +12 volts to 1 volt or less. The computer controls the valve by providing a ground path on the Red/White wire for the solenoid valve

With the engine running, stick a safety pin in the Red/White wire for the solenoid valve & ground it. That should turn the solenoid on and cause air to flow out the port that goes to the pipe connected to the heads. If it doesn't, the valve is bad. If it does cause the airflow to switch, the computer or wiring going to the computer is not signaling the solenoid valve to open.

Both 81 & 82 codes usually mean that some uneducated person removed the solenoid control valves for the Thermactor Air system in an attempt to make the car faster. It doesn't work that way: no working control valves can cause the cat converters to choke and clog. If you do not have cat converters on the car, you can ignore the 81 & 82 codes.

Code 84 EGR Vacuum Regulator failure – Broken vacuum lines, no +12 volts, regulator coil open circuit. The EVR regulates vacuum to the EGR valve to maintain the correct amount of vacuum. The solenoid coil should measure 20-70 Ohms resistance. The regulator has a vacuum feed on the bottom which draws from the intake manifold. The other vacuum line is regulated vacuum going to the EGR valve. One side of the EVR electrical circuit is +12 volts anytime the ignition switch is in the run position. The other side of the electrical circuit is the ground path and is controlled by the computer. The computer switches the ground on and off to control the regulator solenoid.


Code 85 - CANP solenoid - The Carbon Canister solenoid is inoperative or missing. Check vacuum lines for leaks and cracks. Check electrical wiring for loose connections, damaged wiring and insulation. Check solenoid valve operation by grounding the gray/yellow wire to the solenoid and blowing through it.
The computer provides the ground for the solenoid. The red wire to the solenoid is always energized any time the ignition switch is in the run position.

Charcoal canister plumbing - one 3/8" tube from the bottom of the upper manifold to the rubber hose. Rubber hose connects to one side of the canister solenoid valve. Other side of the solenoid valve connects to one side of the canister. The other side of the canister connects to a rubber hose that connects to a line that goes all the way back to the gas tank. There is an electrical connector coming from the passenger side injector harness near #1 injector that plugs into the canister solenoid valve. It's purpose is to vent the gas tank. The solenoid valve opens at cruse to provide some extra fuel. The canister is normally mounted on the passenger side frame rail near the smog pump pulley.

It does not weigh but a pound or so and helps richen up the cruse mixture. It draws no HP & keeps the car from smelling like gasoline in a closed garage. So with all these good things and no bad ones, why not hook it up & use it?


The purge valve solenoid connector is a dangling wire that is near the ECT sensor and oil filler on the passenger side rocker cover. The actual solenoid valve is down next to the carbon canister. There is about 12"-16" of wire that runs parallel to the canister vent hose that comes off the bottom side of the upper intake manifold. That hose connects one port of the solenoid valve; the other port connects to the carbon canister.

The purge valve solenoid should be available at your local auto parts store.

Purge valve solenoid:

The carbon canister is normally mounted on the passenger side frame rail near the smog pump pulley.
Carbon Canister:

Code 98 - basic computer internal tests not passed before it started processing the request to dump codes. Do a Key On Engine Off test before starting the engine. Wait until you see the 11 flash before pressing any buttons if you have a hand operated scanner. The computer is operating in Limp mode, so fix any codes it dumps prior to doing anything else.

Some basic theory to clarify how things work is in order…

EGR System theory and testing

The EGR shuts off at Wide Open Throttle (WOT), so it has minimal effect on performance. The addition of exhaust gas drops combustion temperature, increases gas mileage and reduces the tendency of the engine to ping. It can also reduce HC emissions by reducing fuel consumption. The primary result of EGR usage is a reduction in NOx emissions.

The EGR system has a vacuum source (line from the intake manifold) that goes to the EVR, computer operated electronic vacuum regulator. The EVR is located on the back of the passenger side shock strut tower. The computer uses RPM, Load. and some other factors to tell the EVR to pass vacuum to open the EGR valve. The EGR valve and the passages in the heads and intake manifold route exhaust gas to the EGR spacer (throttle body spacer). The EGR sensor tells the computer how far the EGR valve is open. Then computer adjusts the signal sent to the EVR to hold, increase or decrease the vacuum. The computer adds spark advance to compensate for the recirculated gases and the slower rate they burn at.

Troubleshooting:
There should be no vacuum at the EGR valve when at idle. If there is, the EVR (electronic vacuum regulator) mounted on the backside of the passenger side wheelwell is suspect. Check the vacuum line plumbing to make sure the previous owner didn’t cross the vacuum lines.

Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds. (the diagram says 88 GT, but the EGR part is the same for 86-93 Mustangs)

The EGR sensor is basically a variable resistor, like the volume control on a radio. One end is 5 volt VREF power from the computer (red/orange wire). One end is computer signal ground (black/white), and the middle wire (brown/lt green) is the signal output from the EGR sensor. It is designed to always have some small voltage output from it anytime the ignition switch is the Run position. That way the computer knows the sensor & the wiring is OK. No voltage on computer pin 27 (brown/lt green wire) and the computer thinks the sensor is bad or the wire is broken and sets code 31. The voltage output can range from approximately .6-.85 volt.

The EVR regulates vacuum to the EGR valve to maintain the correct amount of vacuum. The solenoid coil should measure 20-70 Ohms resistance. The regulator has a vacuum feed on the bottom which draws from the intake manifold. The other vacuum line is regulated vacuum going to the EGR valve. One side of the EVR electrical circuit is +12 volts anytime the ignition switch is in the run position. The other side of the electrical circuit is the ground path and is controlled by the computer. The computer switches the ground on and off to control the regulator solenoid.


EGR test procedure courtesy of cjones

To check the EGR valve:
Bring the engine to normal temp.

Connect a vacuum pump to the EGR Valve or see the EGR test jig drawing below. Connnect the test jig or to directly to manifold vacuum.

Do not connect the EGR test jig to the EVR (Electronic Vacuum Regulator).

Apply 5in vacuum to the valve. Using the test jig, use your finger to vary the vacuum

If the engine stumbled or died then EGR Valve and passage(there is a passageway through the heads and intake) are good.

If the engine did NOT stumble or die then either the EGR Valve is bad and/or the passage is blocked.

If the engine stumbled, connect EGR test jig to the hose coming off of the EGR Valve.
Use your finger to cap the open port on the vacuum tee.
Snap throttle to 2500 RPM (remember snap the throttle don't hold it there).
Did the vacuum gauge show about 2-5 in vacuum?
If not the EVR has failed

EGR test jig

To test the computer and wiring to the computer, you can use a test light across the EVR wiring connectors and dump the codes. When you dump the codes, the computer does a self test that toggles every relay/actuator/solenoid on and off. When this happens, the test light will flicker. If the test light remains on the computer or the wiring is suspect.

To check the EVR to computer wiring, disconnect the EVR connector and connect one end of the Ohmmeter to the dark green wire EVR wiring. Remove the passenger side kick panel and use a 10 MM socket to remove the computer connector from the computer. Set the Ohmmeter to high range and connect the other ohmmeter lead to ground. You should see an infinite open circuit indication or a reading greater than 1 Meg Ohm. If you see less than 200 Ohms, the dark green wire has shorted to ground somewhere.

Late Model Restoration may still have the Ford Racing M-12071-N302 kit with the EGR valve & sensor along with the ACT & ECT sensors for $45. See http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/iwwida.pvx?;item?item_no=M12071N302 1&comp=LRS for more details


Thermactor Air System
Some review of how it works...

Revised 17-Sept-2011 to add testing procedure.

The Thermactor air pump (smog pump) supplies air to the heads or catalytic converters. This air helps break down the excess HC (hydrocarbons) and CO (carbon monoxide). The air supplied to the catalytic converters helps create the catalytic reaction that changes the HC & CO into CO2 and water vapor. Catalytic converters on 5.0 Mustangs are designed to use the extra air provided by the smog pump. Without the extra air, the catalytic converters will clog and fail.

The Thermactor air pump draws air from an inlet filter in the front of the pump. The smog pump puts air into the heads when the engine is cold and then into the catalytic converters when it is warm. The Thermactor control valves serve to direct the flow. The first valve, TAB (Thermactor Air Bypass) or AM1 valve) either dumps air to the atmosphere or passes it on to the second valve. The second valve, TAD (Thermactor Air Diverter valve or AM2 valve) directs it to the heads or the catalytic converters. Check valves located after the TAB & TAD solenoids prevent hot exhaust gases from damaging the control valves or pump in case of a backfire. The air serves to help consume any unburned hydrocarbons by supplying extra oxygen to the catalytic process. The computer tells the Thermactor Air System to open the Bypass valve at WOT (wide open throttle) minimizing engine drag. This dumps the pump's output to the atmosphere, and reduces the parasitic drag caused by the smog pump to about 2-4 HP at WOT. The Bypass valve also opens during deceleration to reduce or prevent backfires.

Code 44 RH side air not functioning.
Code 94 LH side air not functioning.

The computer uses the change in the O2 sensor readings to detect operation of the Thermactor control valves. When the dump valve opens, it reduces the O2 readings in the exhaust system. Then it closes the dump valve and the O2 readings increase. By toggling the dump valve (TAB), the computer tests for the 44/94 codes.

Failure mode is usually due to a clogged air crossover tube, where one or both sides of the tube clog with carbon. The air crossover tube mounts on the back of the cylinder heads and supplies air to each of the Thermactor air passages cast into the cylinder heads. When the heads do not get the proper air delivery, they set codes 44 & 94, depending on which passage is clogged. It is possible to get both 44 & 94, which would suggest that the air pump or control valves are not working correctly, or the crossover tube is full of carbon or missing.

Computer operation & control for the Thermactor Air System
Automobile computers use current sink technology. They do not source power to any relay, solenoid or actuator like the IAC, fuel pump relay, or fuel injectors. Instead the computer provides a ground path for the positive battery voltage to get back to the battery negative terminal. That flow of power from positive to negative is what provides the energy to make the IAC, fuel pump relay, or fuel injectors work. No ground provided by the computer, then the actuators and relays don't operate.

One side of the any relay/actuator/solenoid in the engine compartment will be connected to a red wire that has 12-14 volts anytime the ignition switch is in the run position. The other side will have 12-14 volts when the relay/actuator/solenoid isn't turned on. Once the computer turns on the clamp side, the voltage on the computer side of the wire will drop down to 1 volt or less.

In order to test the TAD/TAB solenoids, you need to ground the white/red wire on the TAB solenoid or the light green/black wire on the TAD solenoid.

For 94-95 cars: the colors are different. The White/Red wire (TAB control) is White/Orange (Pin 31 on the PCM). The Green/Black wire (TAD control) should be Brown (pin 34 at the PCM). Thanks to HISSIN50 for this tip.

Testing the system:

To test the computer, you can use a test light across the TAB or TAD wiring connectors and dump the codes. When you dump the codes, the computer does a self test that toggles every relay/actuator/solenoid on and off. When this happens, the test light will flicker.

Disconnect the big hose from smog pump: with the engine running you should feel air output. Reconnect the smog pump hose & apply vacuum to the first vacuum controlled valve: Its purpose is to either dump the pump's output to the atmosphere or pass it to the next valve.

The next vacuum controlled valve directs the air to either the cylinder heads when the engine is cold or to the catalytic converter when the engine is warm. Disconnect the big hoses from the back side of the vacuum controlled valve and start the engine. Apply vacuum to the valve and see if the airflow changes from one hose to the next.

The two electrical controlled vacuum valves mounted on the rear of the passenger side wheel well turn the vacuum on & off under computer control. Check to see that both valves have +12 volts on the red wire. Then ground the white/red wire and the first solenoid should open and pass vacuum. Do the same thing to the light green/black wire on the second solenoid and it should open and pass vacuum.

Remember that the computer does not source power for any actuator or relay, but provides the ground necessary to complete the circuit. That means one side of the circuit will always be hot, and the other side will go to ground or below 1 volt as the computer switches on that circuit.

The computer provides the ground to complete the circuit to power the solenoid valve that turns the
vacuum on or off. The computer is located under the passenger side kick panel. Remove the kick panel & the cover over the computer wiring connector pins. Check Pin 38 Solenoid valve #1 that provides vacuum to the first Thermactor control valve for a switch from 12-14 volts to 1 volt or less. Do the same with pin 32 solenoid valve #2 that provides vacuum to the second Thermactor control valve. Starting the engine with the computer jumpered to self test mode will cause all the actuators to toggle on and off. If after doing this and you see no switching of the voltage on and off, you can start testing the wiring for shorts to ground and broken wiring. An Ohm check to ground with the computer connector disconnected & the solenoid valves disconnected should show open circuit between the pin 32 and ground and again on pin 38 and ground. In like manner, there should be less than 1 ohm between pin 32 and solenoid valve #2 and pin 38 & Solenoid valve #1.

If after checking the resistance of the wiring & you are sure that there are no wiring faults, start looking at the solenoid valves. If you disconnect them, you can jumper power & ground to them to verify operation. Power & ground supplied should turn on the vacuum flow, remove either one and the vacuum should stop flowing.

Typical resistance of the solenoid valves is in the range of 20-70 Ohms.

Theory of operation:
Catalytic converters consist of two different types of catalysts: Reduction and Oxidation.
The Reduction catalyst is the first converter in a 5.0 Mustang, and the Oxidation converter is the second converter. The Oxidation converter uses the extra air from the smog pump to burn the excess HC. Aftermarket converters that use the smog pump often combine both types of catalysts in one housing. Since all catalytic reactions depend on heat to happen, catalytic converters do not work as efficiently with long tube headers. The extra length of the long tubes reduces the heat available to operate the O2 sensors and the catalytic converters. That will cause emissions problems, and reduce the chances of passing an actual smog test.


Now for the Chemistry...
"The reduction catalyst is the first stage of the catalytic converter. It uses platinum and rhodium to help reduce the NOx emissions. When an NO or NO2 molecule contacts the catalyst, the catalyst rips the nitrogen atom out of the molecule and holds on to it, freeing the oxygen in the form of O2. The nitrogen atoms bond with other nitrogen atoms that are also stuck to the catalyst, forming N2. For example:

2NO => N2 + O2 or 2NO2 => N2 + 2O2

The oxidation catalyst is the second stage of the catalytic converter. It reduces the unburned hydrocarbons and carbon monoxide by burning (oxidizing) them over a platinum and palladium catalyst. This catalyst aids the reaction of the CO and hydrocarbons with the remaining oxygen in the exhaust gas. For example:

2CO + O2 => 2CO2

There are two main types of structures used in catalytic converters -- honeycomb and ceramic beads. Most cars today use a honeycomb structure." Quote courtesy of How Stuff Works (HowStuffWorks "Catalysts")

What happens when there is no extra air from the smog pump...
As engines age, the quality of tune decreases and wear causes them to burn oil. We have all seem cars that go down the road puffing blue or black smoke from the tailpipe. Oil consumption and poor tune increase the amount of HC the oxidation catalyst has to deal with. The excess HC that the converters cannot oxidize due to lack of extra air becomes a crusty coating inside the honeycomb structure. This effectively reduces the size of the honeycomb passageways and builds up thicker over time and mileage. Continuous usage under such conditions will cause the converter to fail and clog. The extra air provided by the Thermactor Air System (smog pump) is essential for the oxidation process. It oxidizes the added HC from oil consumption and poor tune and keeps the HC levels within acceptable limits.

Newer catalytic converters do not use the Thermactor Air System (smog pump) because they are designed to work with an improved computer system that runs leaner and cleaner
They add an extra set of O2 sensors after the catalytic converters to monitor the oxygen and HC levels. Using this additional information, the improved computer system adjusts the air/fuel mixture for cleaner combustion and reduced emissions. If the computer cannot compensate for the added load of emissions due to wear and poor tune, the catalytic converters will eventually fail and clog. The periodic checks (smog inspections) are supposed to help owners keep track of problems and get them repaired. Use them on an 86-95 Mustang and you will slowly kill them with the pollutants that they are not designed to deal with.




See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-95 wiring http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/ Everyone should bookmark this site.

Ignition switch wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif

Fuel, alternator, A/C and ignition wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 88-91 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 91-93 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/91-93_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

Vacuum diagram 89-93 Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustangFoxFordVacuumDiagram.jpg

HVAC vacuum diagram
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/Mustang_AC_heat_vacuum_controls.gif

TFI module differences & pin out
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/TFI_5.0_comparison.gif

Fuse box layout
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/MustangFuseBox.gif

87-92 power window wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustang87-92 PowerWindowWiring.gif

93 power window wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustang93PowerWindows.gif

 

[jcgafford]

most of the other codes are egr and thermactor or smog equipment codes. if those items are removed or bypassed, or rather the solenoids that operate them are inactive for one reason or another then they will throw codes. folks that removed catalytic converters and "modded" the engine before you owned it probably caused these codes. trace the vacuum lines to these solenoids and when you run your koeo codes you should hear the solenoids click open and closed. they are located on the passenger strut tower. the solenoid for the egr is on top and both thermactor solenoids are underneath it.

i had many of these codes and the fixes are here http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/new-to-forum-help-going-back-to-stock.851329/

it is alot of leg work, when you find any steps posted by jrichker follow them exactly and don't skip the order. one fix may kill more than one code.


edit: here he is himself. follow the advice, it works!

 

[foxbody1989]

sorry should have mentioned its a 90 Gt and they took off the smog pump,cats, and egr.

 

[MikeH686]

Im sure im not the only one here but the reason i remove smog and egr crap is to clean up the bay and not for performance. Just saying

 

[jrichker]

sorry should have mentioned its a 90 Gt and they took off the smog pump,cats, and egr.

You have become a victim of the previous owner's ignorance and efforts. Welcome to the real world of multiple owner Fox body 5.0 Mustangs. Like I said earlier, did you buy the car from a guy with frizzy red hair, a red nose and floppy shoes? Was his name Bozo or maybe Ronald McDonald? That would have been a clue to watch out for problems... Unfortunately it's not that obvious unless you really know EFI 5.0 Mustangs well. It often takes time and effort to find the things that were done wrong.

You now have the documentation you need to chase and fix the problems. Get out your toolbox, DVM, test lamp and wallet and go at it...

 

[jcgafford]

sorry should have mentioned its a 90 Gt and they took off the smog pump,cats, and egr.

i spent a year searching for and replacing all the smog equipment and cats that the last hotrod hillbilly backyard mechanic that owned it took off for the HUGE horsepower gains. yeah, it didn't even run when i bought it. now it is without codes and runs perfect.

 

[foxbody1989]

Almost souds like i should juxt do a carbed 351 windsor swap doesnt need to be a dd.

 

[jrichker]

Almost souds like i should juxt do a carbed 351 windsor swap doesnt need to be a dd.

The 351/carb swap will cause and cost you more than it is worth. Your problems are not that big, but will require careful thought, planning and quality work. The end result will be well worth it. You will have some tall tales to tell on how you did it the right way and how good you are at fixing 5.0 Fox Mustangs.

 

[TOOLOW91]

Almost souds like i should juxt do a carbed 351 windsor swap doesnt need to be a dd.

That's the easy way out my friend and it's a hack way ....

Fix what's wrong , look people may not agree but it's not there car , I am running my car no Smog ,no egr , the car runs good .

Get an egr simulator off of eBay it will turn the light off I have one , as far as the other stuff I just glanced and seen that you have other sensor codes , fix that stuff and the car will run a lot better.

Carbs work I am not against them where they are warranted but in your case is seems that it's the intimidation that is making you want to go carb and it's more work then fixing what is there already .

 

[jcgafford]

sure you can go this way. everyone has an opinion. but you should focus on getting it back to how FORD built it and have it running correct before doing any mod. i can tell you you can run no cats and all the smog stuff and get rid of all the codes(mine is doing exactly that right now, till summer when the cats go back on). the rest of the "delete" crap is just that for a basically stock motor. research it all well before doing any of it. Ford did not put it on there because it was laying around and they thought they might as well attach it. if you get into it and need help PM me and i can tell you donor cars besides mustangs that have alot of the smog/egr etc. stuff available cheap from the salvage yard.

 

[foxbody1989]

I was looking into some of these codes and code 54 i do not have a ACT sensor as i do have a explorer intake no hole drilled for the sensor. ? will this effect drivability

 

[jrichker]

The ACT (Air Charge Temp) sensor will probably need to be moved. The GT 40 lower manifold isn't drilled & tapped for it to go into the intake like the stock manifold was. There is a boss cast into the GT 40, but a machine shop will have to drill & tap the new manifold. The best spot for the ACT is the air box if you don't do the drill and tap thing. You get to cut and splice the 2 ACT wires in order to make them long enough to reach the air box. Solder the wire extensions on the existing wires & use heat shrink tubing to cover the splices. Offset the place where you cut the wires so that you don't have a big bulge when you put heat shrink over the 2 wires to cover & protect them. The air box gets a hole (5/8" or so) for the ACT drilled about 1 1/4" down & 1/1/4" in on the front top side near the upper radiator hose. A brass fitting nut from Home Depot or Ace Hardware secures the ACT into the air box.

If you are very clever, you will find that the ACT connector comes apart so that you can remove the pins. A very small screwdriver releases the lock in the front of the center insert, while another small screwdriver inserted in the back pushes it out. Once the center insert is out of the connector shell, the pins come out easily. New pins are available from AutoZone in a $5 electrical pin kit for Fords. Crimping the pins on the extender wires saves you from having to splice them twice: once to put the connector on and once to extend the wires.

6 ft black 18 gauge wire
6 ft green 18 gauge wire
6 ft 1/4" heat shrink tubing
1 ft 3/16" heat shrink tubing

Measure the 2 extender wires & cut them to length, crimp one set of pins on them. Then mate up the extender pins with the wiring harness & slide the 3/16" heat shrink tubing over them & shrink the tubing. Then slide the 1/4" heat shrink tubing over the pair of wires and shrink the tubing. When you are done you'll have about 1" of wire left without heat shrink tubing on it to strip & crimp the new pins on. Stick the new pins in the old connector shell, assemble it and you are done. It looks as good as factory. Some wire loom can be used to enhance the "Factory Look".

 

[foxbody1989]

I have a cold air intake any suggestions for that. But does this affect performance not having it hooked up?

 

[jrichker]

I have a cold air intake any suggestions for that. But does this affect performance not having it hooked up?

Yes. The ACT is used to calculate the air/fuel ratio. There are no unnecessary sensors on EFI cars.

Those sensors are necessary for proper vehicle operation. If Ford could have eliminated them, it would have saved them millions of dollars. Ford is a profit driven company: saving a million dollars would be heaven for them.

Here's a book that will get you started with how the Ford electronic engine control or "computer" works.

Ford Fuel Injection & Electronic Engine Control 1988-1993 by James Probst :ISBN 0-8376-0301-3.

It's about $20-$45 from Borders.com see http://www.amazon.com/ . Select books and then select search. Use the ISBN number (without dashes or spaces) to do a search. You may only be able to find a used copy. Even then get out your wallet and pay for it. It's a Must have for serious Mustang guys.

Use the ISBN number and your local library can get you a loaner copy for free. Only thing is you are limited to keeping the book for two weeks. It is very good, and I found it to be very helpful.