Plenum testing protocol ???s

03trubluGT

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Nov 19, 2002
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Mansfield, TX
I'm going to be testing some aftermarket plenums on Saturday, and was wanting input as to the most "acceptable" methods.

I planned on doing a stock dyno and capturing the Air Intake Temp (AIT) and Engine Cooling Temp (ECT) to get a baseline dyno.

Pulling the car off the dyno, disconnecting the battery, swapping aftermarket plenum and aftermarket throttle body, re-connecting the battery, going on a short drive (couple of miles) to get the engine back up to temp, then dyno-ing that combo.

I have 3 throttle body/plenum combinations to dyno, and I was planning on repeating this procedure.

I am going to end up posting the results, and I want to avoid anyone calling my test invalid or not up to their standards, so I want any valid suggestions to make this as practical as possible. I'm doing this on MY budget, so I cannot entertain any unreasonable requests that would necessitate any equipment not accessible to me.

This test will be done on a MILDLY modified GT, other that what is in my sig, it will be STOCK. No cams, chips, etc....... I will not try to help one plenum over the other, what I get is what I will report.

I am conducting this test as the "Average Joe Mustang Owner", and am not affiliated with any companies.


Thanks in advance,

Matt
 
1990StangLX said:
thats an awesome idea. i cant wait to see your results! your methodology looks fine to me but there will always be someone who isn't satisfied and who cries foul..


This is what I was trying to avoid. I know there will always be someone, but now I have this thread to refer to when I say "you had your chance to make a suggestion, but didn't so don't go bad mouthing my test".

Test subjects will be a stock Ford plenum (I have replaced my "hogged out" P&P plenum with the factory stock piece), an Accufab plenum with an Accufab 70mm TB, a C&L plenum with the Accufab 70mm TB, and then the Dragon plenum with the Accufab 70mm TB. Not necessarily in that order.

Matt
 
03trubluGT said:
This is what I was trying to avoid. I know there will always be someone, but now I have this thread to refer to when I say "you had your chance to make a suggestion, but didn't so don't go bad mouthing my test".

Test subjects will be a stock Ford plenum (I have replaced my "hogged out" P&P plenum with the factory stock piece), an Accufab plenum with an Accufab 70mm TB, a C&L plenum with the Accufab 70mm TB, and then the Dragon plenum with the Accufab 70mm TB. Not necessarily in that order.

Matt
i'm really interested in the C & L and Accufab combo results, except i'll be going with the Accufab 75mm TB when i get mine..still, you are right, its now or never for the complainers to get in here and whine about stuff..like i said, i cant wait and i think you are doing a great service to us modders :)
 
One could get really anal about the whole thing but does the dyno software take ambient temp and humidity into account and come up with a correction? Those two things will change as the day goes on. How many pulls do you plan on making with each combo? Try at least two and if those two are off by more than about 1%, make another. Make sure you post complete graphs that we can read easily.

Too bad you don't have a 75 Accufab to use with the C&L, it really does make a difference (2-4 HP) even on a mild car such as yours. That may not sound like much of a difference but you are testing parts with outputs that may vary as little as that.
 
clarkjr said:
One could get really anal about the whole thing but does the dyno software take ambient temp and humidity into account and come up with a correction? Those two things will change as the day goes on. How many pulls do you plan on making with each combo? Try at least two and if those two are off by more than about 1%, make another. Make sure you post complete graphs that we can read easily.

Too bad you don't have a 75 Accufab to use with the C&L, it really does make a difference (2-4 HP) even on a mild car such as yours. That may not sound like much of a difference but you are testing parts with outputs that may vary as little as that.

Each combo will have 3 pulls, and all 3 will be reported. I'm not gonna hold ANY info back. The Dynojet will do SAE and STD correction. I'm gonna have them put both SAE and STD for each run on a floppy.

I would like to have a 75mm, but I was sent the 70mm. Beggars can't be choosers, and I'll make do. Sorry.

Matt
 
Go for it dude.Like a few people said there will be whiners,but the odds are the ones who will be whineing are usually the magazine racers.When we tested the dragon plenum for them all i really did was make sure i kept the same motor temp and such.I never unstraped it from the rollers.Funny thing was every time i dyno a new combo i do it cold then at normal operating temps.I usually lose 3rwhp during the warm pulls,but with the dragon it did the same :shrug: Anyway i hope things ga well for you.Check out the n/a pulls on dragon performance site to see my results.All i had was an x-pipe 3 chamber flowes and a K&N.By the way are you using a dynojet or mustang dyno?
 
03trubluGT said:
This is what I was trying to avoid. I know there will always be someone, but now I have this thread to refer to when I say "you had your chance to make a suggestion, but didn't so don't go bad mouthing my test".

Test subjects will be a stock Ford plenum (I have replaced my "hogged out" P&P plenum with the factory stock piece), an Accufab plenum with an Accufab 70mm TB, a C&L plenum with the Accufab 70mm TB, and then the Dragon plenum with the Accufab 70mm TB. Not necessarily in that order.

Matt

Matt,

FWIW, I suggest that you might want to reset the computer before the Baseline run so all runs are equal. A computer reset can show gain all by itself. And, as long as you're going to reset the computer, you may want to try to follow a basic Drive Cycle procedure so that the computer will re-learn correctly.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Article Beginning
General Information
Ford Motor Company Computer Relearn Procedures
Introduction
Vehicles equipped with engine or transmission computers may require a
relearn procedure after the vehicle battery is disconnected. Many
vehicle computers memorize and store vehicle operation patterns for
optimum driveability and performance. When the vehicle battery is
disconnected, this memory is lost. The computer will use default data
until new data from each key start is stored. As the computer memorizes
vehicle operation for each new key start, driveability is restored.
Vehicle computers may memorize vehicles operation patterns for 40 or
more key starts. Customers often complain of driveability problems
during the relearn stage because the vehicle acts differently then
before being serviced. Depending on the type of vehicle and how it is
equipped, the following complaints (driveability problems) may exist:
Harsh Or Poor Shift Quality
Rough Or Unstable Idle
Hesitation Or Stumble
Rich Or Lean Running
Poor Fuel Mileage
These symptoms and complaints should disappear after a number of drive cycles have been memorized. To reduce the possibility of complaints, after any service which requires battery power to be disconnected, vehicle should be road tested.
Vehicle Preparation
Ensure all components are connected. Ensure transmission fluid level is
correct. Warm engine to normal operating temperature. If vehicle has been repaired, perform KOEO and Continuous Memory Code Self-Test and ensure fault codes are not present.
Computer Relearn Procedures
Idle Relearn Procedure
Place automatic transmission in Park or manual transmission in Neutral position. Ensure the emergency brake has been set and all accessories are turned off. Start engine and bring to normal operating temperature. Allow manual transmission vehicle to idle in Neutral for one minute. Allow automatic transmission to idle in Neutral for one minute and then
to idle in Drive for one minute. Once initial relearn is complete, process will be completed during normal driving. Always complete the procedure before returning the vehicle to the customer.
Drive Cycle Test (AOD-E, AXOD & AXOD-E TRANSAXLES)
With transmission gear selector in Overdrive, moderately accelerate
vehicle to 50 MPH for a minimum of 15 seconds. Transmission should be in
4th gear. While holding speed steady, lightly apply and release brake
for about 5 seconds. Stop and park vehicle for a minimum of 20 seconds
with transmission gear selector in Drive. Repeat procedure 5 times.
Always complete the procedure before returning the vehicle to the customer.
Drive Cycle Test (E4OD)
With transmission gear selector in Drive, press Overdrive Cancel Switch
(LED should light). Moderately accelerate vehicle to 40 MPH for a minimum of 15 seconds (30 seconds above 4000-ft. elevation) Transmission should be in 3rd gear. While holding speed steady, press Overdrive Cancel Switch (LED should go off) and accelerate from 40 MPH to 50 MPH. Transmission should shift from 3rd gear to 4th gear. Hold speed steady
for 15 seconds. While holding speed steady, lightly apply and release brakes enough to turn brake lights on. Maintain 50 MPH for about 5 seconds. Stop vehicle for a minimum of 20 seconds with transmission gear selector in Drive. Repeat procedure 5 times. Always complete the procedure before returning the vehicle to the customer. (This is a process the FORD techs are supposed to follow anytime they disconnect anyone's battery)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------

I got a nice gain with the C&L intake, about 6 hp peak. But it really shines in the higher rmp range. Mike
 
It's a Dynojet.


I don't have time for 40 cycles, but Hwy 121 is just down the street. I'll be able to run through the gears and put a few miles on it. I'll to the exact same route before each test so it'll be fair.

That's the best I can do. I don't have the moola to rent the dyno for the morning.

Matt
 
I think you have everything right.. I think your doing a great service for the people looking for new parts.. I myself just bought a dragon and accufab 75 mm throttle body with a 85 mm MAF.. and I can't wait to install it.. I know once I see your results I won't feel bad about shelling out so much $$$
 
Are you going to use the same throttle body on each plenum? If you change both plenum and throttle body each time, you cant compare the plenums directly. I'd rather see all three plenums with a single 75mm throttle body, vs stock plenum with 75mm throttle body. :shrug:

Glad you are going to do this. I'm in the market for a plenum (leaning toward C&L because they have a lower coming out). Did anyone here more about the C&L lower?
 
Last we inquired with C&L (three days ago) they were still working on the design for the casting. It will probaby take quite a bit of time due to the complexity but should be worth it.

Just curious Matt, you mentioned that the throttle body (and the other parts, I assume) are being sent to you. Is someone loaning these for testing and if so, can you tell us who?
 
clarkjr said:
Last we inquired with C&L (three days ago) they were still working on the design for the casting. It will probaby take quite a bit of time due to the complexity but should be worth it.

Just curious Matt, you mentioned that the throttle body (and the other parts, I assume) are being sent to you. Is someone loaning these for testing and if so, can you tell us who?

I'm going from stock plenum/tb to 70mm TB (Accufab) and aftermarket plenum.

Each aftermarket plenum will be tested with the 70mm Accufab TB.

I am getting some parts from the manufacturers, some from independant sources. I don't want to divulge what part came from where yet.

I'm not on anyone's payroll, and I'm spending my own money tomorrow for the dyno sessions.

Matt