Plugging holes on Heads where Smog Pump Lines connected?

MavericK5L said:

Ford's part # : F4ZZ-6E086-A

Click to expand...

They cost like $8 a piece from Ford. All you need are two old spark plugs. If they don't fit, you probably need to clean up the carbon built up inside.

Terrible Juan said:

They cost like $8 a piece from Ford. All you need are two old spark plugs. If they don't fit, you probably need to clean up the carbon built up inside.

Click to expand...

I used to think that the spark plugs fit too. I guess I read it too many times on here. Look back to Michael Younts post, he is without a doubt one of most informed on Stangnet. He told you guys the spark plugs are wrong. I recently plugged my own, and looked at another set of E7 heads that were off of the engine. They are clearly course thread, prolly metric. Its close to 9/16". I used the tried and true method of cutting off the blocks and flipping them. Easier than trying to clean the carbon out of those threads.

Terrible Juan said:

They cost like $8 a piece from Ford. All you need are two old spark plugs. If they don't fit, you probably need to clean up the carbon built up inside.

Click to expand...

They sell thermactor plugs which "plug" up the hole where the smog equipment goes (the same thing works for the front of you heads...you can get them at a Ford Dealership - part # F4ZZ-6E086-A or you can buy some from Summitracing - part # TFS-51400265

Those summit plugs above are $3 bucks a piece...and if you buy two from Ford for $8 (vary at different dealerships)...that is only $16...that is pretty cheap to get a clean installation and lose a pound

Just did it, 3/4-10 plugs (set screws). This is nearly the same thread pitch and diameter as a 1/2 NPT plug so they should work too. The Ford adapter sleeves down to a 7/16-18 thread, but is drilled through so this will not seal it up. I would suggest using some thread sealer on them just for exta insurance and to make it easier to remove, should the need ever arise.

ok guys i've been wanting to do this for a while, i just got 2high flow catco cats, h pipe and flowmasters dumped, so you're saying i could still pass since my cats are new? i know they might give me sh1t about the dumps, but my question is can i pass visual/sniffer without my smog pump if i have new cats?

Maybe if the cats are real hot, but NO if not. You can pass a sniffer test without cats, with the smog pump. But, without the smog pump it's a lot harder with or without the cats. The smog (air) pump injects air into the cats to burn off the excessive hydrocarbon (unburned fuel). If you remove the cats and have a good tune a stang should pass, and a lot of that is because the air pump dilutes the exhaust gases. Without the pump the cats will not work correctly and eventualy they will plug up. AND, if you get a visual test you will NOT pass and likely get fined too.

jd351 said:

Maybe if the cats are real hot, but NO if not. You can pass a sniffer test without cats, with the smog pump. But, without the smog pump it's a lot harder with or without the cats.

Click to expand...

I completely disagree with that.

This is coming from a person who has run cats and no air pump on different cars for years now. I have never had a problem passing an emissions test because of that. This is with stock cats, aftermarket cats, stock motors, and built motors -- and no special tricks or adjustment or anything.

3 way cats (the type used on Mustangs, factory or aftermarket) require additional oxygen to "catalyze" the fuel, without the air pump they may 'clean' the exhaust, but they act as a filter rather then a combustion unit they were intended to be. And, while we are not required to pass a visual here (WA) it may be an exceptable gamble to try, but if you have a visual (something any emisions testing station has the right to do, and EVERY police officer does too) it is a bigger gamble (the fine limit for "tampering/removing" emisions equipment is $1500), but one I am willing to take. Then again I live in a non-emision testing area now, and am going to run way too big a cam to pass any kind of emisions test, or gas station for that matter....

"require additional oxygen to "catalyze" the fuel, without the air pump they may 'clean' the exhaust, but they act as a filter rather then a combustion unit they were intended to be."

Close - but not quite right. The cats accelerate (or catalyze) further oxidation of harmful emissions components (HC, CO and NOx). That oxidation chemical reaction combines free oxygen with those harmful compounds to transform them into H2O, CO2 and N2 - non-controlled emissions. They will help the oxidation occur to the extent there is free oxygen in the exhaust stream to support the chemical reactions. The air pump is there to be CERTAIN there's enough free oxygen to support further oxidation. The cats are there to accelerate the process. The cats have no "filtering" capability. They are simply precious metal compounds (the 'catalyst') laid down on a ceramic substrate. As the exhaust passes over it, it catalyzes further chemical reactions. If not enough free oxygen is present to support the further reactions, the cat does nothing at all - except provide a bit of a flow restriction. The cats 'plugging up' that seems to be accelerated if the air pump isn't run isn't connected with the cats doing any 'filtering' type exhaust cleaning. Rather, deposits on the ceramic substrate seem to occur (much like mineral deposits in an old radiator) in part because with the lower level of oxidation, the temps in the cat don't get/stay warm enough to 'burn' those deposits off more effectively. Even the proper operating ones will 'plug' up over time.

89Mustang - not doubting that you've passed the tests over the years. But you can't generalize your situation to anyone elses. Each engine is unique in how it runs/is tuned/is modded. Each testing facility is unique - each testing tech does things their way - the testing equipment may be calibrated differently. And certainly in different parts of the country they're looking for different things. Lastly, the emissions equipment on the cars was designed to control emissions below a certain level for 50K-100K miles (it's changed over time) - by law. That's a HUGE range of changing operating conditions to control within. It wouldn't surprise me a bit that a vehicle could pass - under certain conditions - without an air pump, or without cats or even without egr. That DOESN'T mean it's prudent to conclude that because yours reacted a certain way that everyone else's will too.

Michael Yount said:

89Mustang - not doubting that you've passed the tests over the years. But you can't generalize your situation to anyone elses. Each engine is unique in how it runs/is tuned/is modded. Each testing facility is unique - each testing tech does things their way - the testing equipment may be calibrated differently. And certainly in different parts of the country they're looking for different things. Lastly, the emissions equipment on the cars was designed to control emissions below a certain level for 50K-100K miles (it's changed over time) - by law. That's a HUGE range of changing operating conditions to control within. It wouldn't surprise me a bit that a vehicle could pass - under certain conditions - without an air pump, or without cats or even without egr. That DOESN'T mean it's prudent to conclude that because yours reacted a certain way that everyone else's will too.

Click to expand...

I just put my opinion and my experience out there, I never said it was any type of "conclusion."

A little more information -- maybe someone will draw their own conclusions about how effective the air pump is.

These are at different testing stations, different states (on opposite coasts of the country), different times of the year, different cars. One carbed car (former 4-cylinder car) with no emissions equipment other than cats, a couple EFI cars - one with stock cats one with aftermarket cats -- neither bone stock, but one with internal engine work done, the other just bolt-ons.The carbed car's bottom end had about 65k on it, other cars in excess of 125k. None of these cars had air pumps on them. All passed fine. The carbed car was the closest to failing, but it also had the most work done to it - and like I said, no other emissions equipment on it.

Like I said, draw your own conclusions, but I'll disagree with anyone who says they need the air pump to pass emissions.

"I never said it was any type of "conclusion." "

"I'll disagree with anyone who says they need the air pump to pass emissions."

Those two statements seem in conflict with each other. You didn't need the air pump; others may. It's really that simple.

Michael Yount said:

"I never said it was any type of "conclusion." "

"I'll disagree with anyone who says they need the air pump to pass emissions."

Those two statements seem in conflict with each other. You didn't need the air pump; others may. It's really that simple.

Click to expand...

Well, it's really as simple as it's my opinion and that's that. By definition, my opinion is a conclusion drawn by myself for myself, not others - and certainly not a theory I'm trying to impress upon the world. Like I said, anyone can draw their own conclusions, but that's my own opinion and I put my experience out there to back up what I am saying.

On to the real issue:

It sounds like you didn't even read what I was disagreeing with. Unless you do agree with broad generalizations about Mustangs passing emissions without cats as long as they have the wonderful air pump, and not being able to pass with just cats unless really hot? That's what I disagree with. I never debated that the air pump does something, but I do not agree that it is necessary to pass a test. I also disagree that it is effective enough to pass an emissions test without cats...though I do hear stories once in a while. But that's where your argument about different stations, etc. can come in.

All this and I think you may actually end up agreeing with me and just not read where I was coming from.

You dont need the thermactor air system to pass emissions because the diverter valve located on the air pump hose is vac operated and only pumps air into the back of the heads for like 1 minute at cold start- after that the diverter valve dumps ALL air to the Hpipe- this is why you never bring your car do the inspection with it cold........

The thermactor system on fox body mustangs is only used for 1 minute at each cold start up- the other 99% of the time you are running the engine the air is dumped into the Hpipe...

I passed emissions with P heads not drilled for the thermactor system in the 2nd most stringent emissions state in the union- MASS!!!!!!!!


ps- GO RED SOXS!!!!