Poor Man Mods

First video is a HOW TO on fuel pressure. Second video is a mod what wont give any power at all. If it does then i want to see dyno numbers.

Funny, I have spent the last month getting rid of hillbilly mods like the last one. The first hurts more at the pump as you have made it a "high octane" only car.

ckyfreak2010, I hope you take the time to read this entirely, as it is important.

I did some research on the reasoning behind your second video, because you clearly did not. There are a couple things you should know before suggesting such a mod. First, bypassing the coolant line around the throttle body serves one purpose, and that is to avoid heating it up and reducing horsepower with a less dense air charge (colder air).
That being said, your mustang is Mass Air (google it), and it already takes into account the density and actual temperature of your intake charge, identifying it through your MAF and ACT sensors, then adjusts your fuel flow and in turn, your air/fuel ratio to optimize the horsepower and efficiency of your engine. On a dyno, "icing" your intake will typically give you a gain of 5-7 horsepower. This is attributed to the drastic lack of any heat whatsoever which obviously makes a denser air charge in your combustion chambers, but the difference in your throttle body being warmed up by coolant is so minimal that it may only cost you 1 horsepower. (We would like for you to dyno a car with it bypassed, then run hot coolant through the throttle body and dyno it again, report findings.)

Now, before performing such a mod, you should know WHY the damn thing is there in the first place! Its not to rob your horsepower. There are a couple reasons you have a coolant passage in your throttle body.

ONE- to prevent moisture in the air from freezing at high RPMs inside your throttle body and causing it to stick open. Ever hear of a wind chill factor? This is a safety issue in cold climates.

TWO- You have a thing called an IAC (idle air control) bolted to your throttle body. This IAC controls your idle, picks up engine speed when cold to warm up faster, and THEN when the coolant gets warm, and passes through the throttle body, it warms up a wax valve in the IAC which eventually closes, and returns the car to a normal idle speed. Without the coolant, you wont be able to idle "correctly" until the engine eventually warms up the metal TB enough to close the wax valve in the IAC.

At the end of the day, it hurts your car more than it helps.

After watching the first vid, i thought you were helpful because i didnt know how to adjust my fuel pressure until now, but after the second one, you lost all credibility. Do yourself a favor and delete the bypass vid.

I must admit that I thought the jam nut on the fuel regulator WAS the adjuster... thanks for clearing that up (I just barely got my AFPR on, and my fuel pressure gauge wasnt working... /excuse).

As for the second video, my GT40 intake came without the provision for the throttle body coolant return line, so I just capped the other three ends with rubber caps. Same result I guess as in the video. And uhhhh do more editing out of parts you don't want in there lol

Just a little bit on the first vid. When you install a larger fuel pump you don't have to install an adjustable FPR. I ran around with a Walbro 255 for years with the stock FPR. It wasn't until I put a chip and nitrous in that I found a need to make sure I could adjust the fuel pressure. Also, and I know you pointed this out, the adjustment procedure for that AFPR don't apply to all FPRs. My Accell AFPR adjusts completely differently.

Cool vids! For the next time on poor man mods: How to port and polish your intake and heads! Can't wait for that edition.